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About IgnrntNewb

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    : Bedford, TX.
  • Interests
    Wood turning, hot rodding, knife making, moonshining... Oh and uh... shooting stuff...

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  1. Thank you very much for your response. I see what you're saying about moving the gauge and shut-off valve back to the tank. Makes perfect sense to keep it further from the heat. I'll make that happen. I read in your instructions about bell reducers not being ideal, but I was unable to find the thread protectors you mentioned. All the suppliers around here just use plastic thread protectors. Do you have a link where I could get some 1/2" black steel thread protectors, or maybe some pretty stainless steel units? I'd like to do this as correctly as possible, and even if my bell reducers aren't technically "wrong", I'd still rather do it the way the guy that designed these burners recommends... Thanks again!
  2. Lol... Will do! I'm pretty sure the tip in the burner furthest from view still need to be trimmed a bit. It's a little longer than the other. I just figured I'd wait until they were in the forge to do the final tune. Should the holes in the tank for the burners be cut to fit as tightly to the half inch pipe as possible while still allowing it to slide up and down (when not tightened, obviously...) for adjustment?
  3. My burner spacing look ok? I haven't cut the tank in half yet, but I put a black mark where it'll be cut to show where these burners will be centered. Should the holes in the tank for the burners be cut to fit as tightly to the half inch pipe as possible while still allowing it to slide up and down for adjustment?
  4. Tried to just reduce the 3/4 T down to 1/2" pipe... (1st video) That certainly didn't work... So I went and got the 3/4 - 1/2" T and, trimmed the tips back quite a bit, and it looks like I'm back to a similar flame as where I was with the 3/4" burners. I'm gonna leave it a lone until I get them mounted in the forge, at which point I'll finish tuning them. Anybody see anything right off the bat that I missed or could do different/better? 20191206_100805.mp4 1/2" burners, take 2... 20191206_134823.mp4
  5. Thanks again, Mikey, and to Monkey Forge as well, for the responses. I'm sure Frosty is a very busy man, but I am VERY interested to read what he has to say about this one. In the mean time, I could always try to reduce it and see how the flame looks, post a video, get some input, etc...
  6. Well crap... Now you went and woke up every little OCD monster I've got running around in my head. They were fast asleep until I read that comment... Are these 1/2" burners you suggest still Frosty's 'T' design? If so, can I just reduce 1"x1"x3/4" 'T' down to 1/2" black pipe Or would I need to go 3/4" T reduced to 1/2"?
  7. Thanks again to everyone who has taken the time to respond. Being that I don't even know how to build the hypothetical mousetrap here, I certainly don't assume I can build a better one. Thank you all for the insight and advice. I will be cutting my tank down by half and using a single burner. After that comes lots more study on the proper insulation process. I've read a lot, but there are still a few things I'm not sure I've fully grasped yet, possibly because I'm unfamiliar with most of the terminology. Anyway... I'll start another topic for those questions if I'm unable to figure it out through study. Thanks again!
  8. So Mikey... Is it your opinion as well that I should cut my tank down to 300-350 cubic inches and go with a single burner?
  9. That is good news! Thank you, sir!
  10. Thank you for your response. I have skimmed more than a few threads over the past few weeks, including the 'Forges 101' thread. There is an inexhaustible amount of info here. So much so that finding answers to specific questions can be quite difficult. I'm still hoping that someone will have some insight for me on my original question as to whether or not to paint the inside of the forge after I knock the rust off. I do appreciate the link very much. I've gone through some of it over the past hour or so, but the drink is currently taking effect in the best possible way, and I am subsequently losing my ability to remain focused. So while I look forward to gleaning as much knowledge as possible from those who know WAY more about this than I do, I'm afraid I'll have to postpone any further gleaning until tomorrow. Thanks again for all your responses!
  11. My username isn't a joke. I'm as ignorant in these matters as they come. I haven't come here thinking I know anything about what I'm doing. I've come here to make sure I do it as close to correctly the first time as I possibly can by asking those who've already done it correctly. The reason my tank is as long as it currently is is because that's what I was given. I've done a lot of research looking for answers to questions that I have, but there are many questions that I don't even know I need to ask. What interior diameter/length should I shoot for? Should I avoid building something that requires two burners for the time being? While I'm not currently aiming at forging sword-length blades, I am interested in doing some 18-24" blades along with the other smaller blades that I'll do more often. I'm not married to any particular dimension. I'm here for the sole purpose of humbly asking those who know to teach one who doesn't. Tell me what I'm doing wrong and I'll fix it.
  12. Thanks again for the info, Mikey! I'm gonna do my best to remember to video the progression as I tune the burners. I'm very glad I read this before starting to trim the tips. Thanks so much!
  13. I'm in the process of building a propane forge from an old air compressor tank I was given. The current interior dimensions are 13-3/4" diameter x 28" length. After insulation, I plan on having a 6" diameter x 25-26" interior length, giving me a volume of between 705 and 735 cubic inches. I've just finished building the double Frosty T burner set up to heat the cook chamber. None of this really has anything to do with my question(s). I just wanted you to know what I'm working with. Question for anyone who's used an air compressor tank, or anyone else who knows...: What kind, if any, prep-work should I do to the interior surface of the tank before laying down insulation? Mine has a fair amount of surface rust and I'm wondering if I should paint the interior after taking out the rust. Thanks in advance!
  14. I apologize. I didn't initially see your question at the end of your last response.
  15. Thanks again, Mikey. Roughly how much should I aim to take off the tips at a time? 1/16"? 1/8th"?