IgnrntNewb

Thank you for the tip, Buzzkill. You're correct. My mixing tubes are 6" long. I'll be getting some 4" tubes today and playing with the flame again. Two weeks ago, I tried using some stainless steel pipe coupler instead of the 1/2" to 1" bell reducers. I don't know if it was due to the long mixing tubes or what, but the flame didn't like the pipe coupler setup at all. One of the burners absolutely refused to stay lit. I will try the the couplers again with the shorter pipe and see how it does. Thanks again for the tip!

Ah, I see... My mistake.

You just quoted exactly what I said in my previous post, and nowhere did I say "I have to use what I already have". I said I'm trying to use what I already have. And I suppose I can take that a step further and say I'm using what I already have. The wool is bought and paid for and I already got more than I needed in case I make any mistakes. Also, being that I'm cutting the tank in half, I'll have more than enough wool left over to play with a second forge project at some point. Thank you for clearing that up, Latticino. I was about to waste a lot of refractory...

It's hard to get any cheaper than "free", which is how much that compressor tank cost me. I mainly wanted to make sure it wasn't a completely terrible idea. At this point, I'm just trying to use what I have to get my first forge built. The more efficient the better, obviously, but again... I'm trying to use what I currently have. One of the few times I'm happy to be wrong. Perhaps I misread or misunderstood what I was reading about having more than two layers of wool. I appreciate your response! Thanks! I'm almost certain I'm not understanding this correctly. Are you saying that I should NOT put castable refractory in between each 1" layer of kaowool? Should I only use the castable as a protective layer over the final layer of kaowool? If this is the case, than I've definitely been misunderstanding a lot of what I've been reading about insulating a forge. Thank you all for taking the time to reply. This would be a miserable endeavor without guys like you willing to walk guys like me through the process.

I've read over and over again that two 1" layers of ceramic fiber insulation is all you want to lay down (with refractory, rigidizer and whatnot...). And I understand (I think...) that you don't want to use more than that because it creates more of a heat sink...? Please correct me if I'm wrong. (My username almost certainly applies here) But what do you do if you need to bring your inside diameter down in size to achieve the overall cubic inch range that you had planned to match your burners? The empty inside diameter of my tank is about 13-3/4" with a length of about 14" inches (after I cut it in half). I need to get as close to a 6" inside diameter as possible to achieve the 300-400 (roughly) cubic inches that my two 1/2" burners will heat. The only way I can see to do this is to add at least one more 1" layer of kaowool, and layer the refractory thick enough between the layers of wool to achieve my final inside diameter. Is this not a good idea or is this one of those "gotta do what you gotta do" scenarios? Thanks in advance!

Found these on Amazon. They should be here tonight... Remove commercial link per TOS

Thank you, sir!

All I know for sure is when I asked if they had any, they said "No"... On a different note, I absolutely love a good "Airplane" reference. Well played...

Yes sir, I have. Around here, all the black steel pipe nipple comes with plastic thread protectors. They don't even bother taking them off of the pipe. They allow the customer to do that when they're ready.

Thank you very much for your response. I see what you're saying about moving the gauge and shut-off valve back to the tank. Makes perfect sense to keep it further from the heat. I'll make that happen. I read in your instructions about bell reducers not being ideal, but I was unable to find the thread protectors you mentioned. All the suppliers around here just use plastic thread protectors. Do you have a link where I could get some 1/2" black steel thread protectors, or maybe some pretty stainless steel units? I'd like to do this as correctly as possible, and even if my bell reducers aren't technically "wrong", I'd still rather do it the way the guy that designed these burners recommends... Thanks again!

Lol... Will do! I'm pretty sure the tip in the burner furthest from view still need to be trimmed a bit. It's a little longer than the other. I just figured I'd wait until they were in the forge to do the final tune. Should the holes in the tank for the burners be cut to fit as tightly to the half inch pipe as possible while still allowing it to slide up and down (when not tightened, obviously...) for adjustment?

My burner spacing look ok? I haven't cut the tank in half yet, but I put a black mark where it'll be cut to show where these burners will be centered. Should the holes in the tank for the burners be cut to fit as tightly to the half inch pipe as possible while still allowing it to slide up and down for adjustment?

Tried to just reduce the 3/4 T down to 1/2" pipe... (1st video) That certainly didn't work... So I went and got the 3/4 - 1/2" T and, trimmed the tips back quite a bit, and it looks like I'm back to a similar flame as where I was with the 3/4" burners. I'm gonna leave it a lone until I get them mounted in the forge, at which point I'll finish tuning them. Anybody see anything right off the bat that I missed or could do different/better? 20191206_100805.mp4 1/2" burners, take 2... 20191206_134823.mp4

Thanks again, Mikey, and to Monkey Forge as well, for the responses. I'm sure Frosty is a very busy man, but I am VERY interested to read what he has to say about this one. In the mean time, I could always try to reduce it and see how the flame looks, post a video, get some input, etc...

Well crap... Now you went and woke up every little OCD monster I've got running around in my head. They were fast asleep until I read that comment... Are these 1/2" burners you suggest still Frosty's 'T' design? If so, can I just reduce 1"x1"x3/4" 'T' down to 1/2" black pipe Or would I need to go 3/4" T reduced to 1/2"?