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Found 4 results

  1. Hey Guys, I'm quite new here and wanted to share my finally working DIY burner design (input is always welcome) and want to share my lengthy learning experience with a lot of pictures and examples, so others can learn from my mistake. Where I am located in the Netherlands, where this sort of plumbing for smaller sizes is quite hard to get, which is the reason I built a 1 inch burner. Background information I started my burner with parts-information stated in the description of a YouTube video. I can hear the experienced members thinking, what an idiot, because Indeed I did this without a proper read-up (hindsight: definitely not the best idea). To get this burner working I had to go through a few learning moments, which I see as a great learning experience. To prevent others from making the same mistakes I made I started this post. As it turns out, the dimensions mentioned in the description were completely wrong. The dimensions also differed from what the person was actually using. To get my burner working I needed to do a bit of research and found a lot of information here on I Forge Iron, so thank you all for sharing information and helping others. My learning curve - Burner Version 0.1 I had created the burner to the specs of the video, apart from the air intake and jet mount (more on this later). The video was using a tuna can lid to close the air intake, which I didn't deem safe. My design seemed to work fine, I had the air valve closed off and the flame resembled a big closed Bunsen burner. Opening the air supply turned it to a blue flame. I saw the blue flaming going up and at first thought this required some tuning of the propane pressure or air valve. Reading up I found out that this is best performed inside the forge, due to backpressure and using the forge as a flare.Below are the first images of the version 0.1 burner sizes, air valve, still threaded intake and jet mount + position. At this point I found out that the dimensions of the flare were completely wrong, it was the wrong way around. Needless to say I called myself very stupid that I didn't see this, even though I followed the instruction from the youtube description (hindsight: this should have been the first hint the dimensions could be wrong). After ordering a new end piece and widening the hole in the brick wall I ran some new tests. After the testrun with the new flare and afterwards also with the opened up brick, I achieved a blue jet-like flame, with little distortion. However it was making an air-sucking sound louder than the flame. Shutting of the burner I noticed the flame not shutting of completely, meaning the ballvalve was possibly leaking and turned out to be incorrect. This lead to quite the change in connection as you can see below: Burner Version 0.2 Using a wrong connection on the valve side (one that was advised in the hardware store), the connection was causing a leak, which lead to using a different connector. So after adjusting it and running it again, this time in the forge, I got a blue dragon's breath not too far out of the forge and there was a small sense of accomplishment. The next day however, it turned out this feeling misplaced. The day after, I tried to get the forge to warm up, which turned to a red flame and tube. Obviously something was wrong and this wasn't at all running like any burners I could compare it to. My burner made a loud air-sucking-sound instead of just a jetburner sound and the flame and mixing tube turned red. - continued on next post -
  2. Im new to this, here’s the begining of my forge build up
  3. I've been using Michael Porter's Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns as plans to build my gas forge and burner. The plans recommend I use a Tweco .030 or .035 inch MIG welding contact tip, 1-1/2-inch long. I have no experience with these parts, and have no idea what the importance is of the length, the taper, etc, and I've been unable to find this part anywhere. The drawings in my plans show a tapered MIG tip (shown in attachment), but I've had difficulty finding anyone who carries any contact tips with tapers. Most parts I've been able to find have a rounded end. Does the overall length of the MIG tip, the inside diameter, and the taper on the end affect performance? If not, I'll just buy one that I can find readily, and not have to go searching for this exact piece.
  4. Hey guys, I built two burners this week after work. Both are 3/4". One is a Ron Reil style with the mig tip mod. The other is my interpertation of a hybrid style ...except not as nice ...or as good functioning but I did it anyways lol....What i would like to get is some opinion on flames of each burner. I know what i think but i am curious to learn what others see. My goal here is education for myself and being able to build the best burner that i can. I am also open to any suggestions or critiques. I do not have any psi info on the flames in question because i have them each running on a small 1 lb propane cylinder.Though i will be making a tractor supply store run this week. Also you may note thay the hybrid type does not have a choke sleeve on at this pic but it does have one...Thank you in advance for any and all input. P.s excuse the mess ..the maid is on strike, something about labor laws and my mom? Not sure couldnt hear her over the drill press