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MonkeyForge

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About MonkeyForge

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    Netherlands (Noord Holland)
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    - Metalurgy (mostly steel)
    - Forges/forging (Gas)
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  1. "gas burners for forges furnaces & kilns" if i recall correctly. Happy hunting.
  2. If you already have the stuff on hand you might as well make a test piece. I have achieved a result with bentonite + molochite + zircopax. For a kiln wash you may get away with omitting the molochite. I have had repeatable results (paint-ability, and no cracking on drying) by noting and using a specific gravity of 1.25. This simply means that 100 ml of volume of your wash should weigh 125 grams. (100 ml is a good amount for testing as well) Weigh the dry components and mix dry. (start with 24.25 grams of zircopax to .75 grams of bentonite. if you don't have a scale that fine round up
  3. Always happy to share. All percentages are by weight. I mixed the components dry before adding the water. After the water is mixed in the material feels and molds like clay but it is very sticky, so be aware of that. I used a mould to make two tiles, one I left flat to become the floor, the other one I draped over a tube to get the half cylinder. Photo if the mould below. (Can't find a picture of the tube unfortunately) I had everything fired with their porcelain. So in the ballpark of 1300/1350 degrees C. Building the forge from the outside in had its own challenges, mainly b
  4. Considering I am not a ceramicists by any stretch, I have no informed opinion on using any other type of fiber. I imagine that as long as the filler burns away in the firing process the results will be similar. I decided on paper fibre because it is easy to make and I liked that it improves green strength. (I knew I needed to transport the piece prior to firing). In theory the cavities left after firing would improve insulating propperies but since the piece is only about 1 cm thick I that that is negligible in my case.
  5. Yes I used the molochite as well. It stabilises and to an extent counteracts shrinking during drying process. (Digitalfire has a nice definition of grog and its uses) I dug up an earlier post and found the ratios. Will work without paper fibre, too. - Zircon 66.91% (or 82.19% minus water and paper) - Bentone 2.23% (or 2.74% minus water and paper) - Molochite 12.27% (or 15.07% minus water and paper) - Paper fiber 3.72% - Water 14.87% And below is the part I mentioned. I had it fired at my ceramics supplier.
  6. I based most of my experimentation with ceramics on Mr Hansen's information. My ratios are close to what you refer to above. Bentone has the same role as veegum in ceramics but it is not the same stuff. I think close enough though. And it will be location dependent which is easily accessible. Some of the parts I made with my mixture in are now in a forge which is awaiting first firing. I hope to update on that soon.
  7. Hij Deimos, Looks like you are on your way with the right kind of bricks. If you need some pointers to local sources that have online shops or if you have trouble translating parts/things shoot me a dm. The ceramics supply in Haarlem I got some of my stuff from has a webshop too.
  8. When you scale down the burner you scale down most parts. 1/2" inch T would have a 3/4" to 1/2" redducing T fitting, a 1/2" nipple and a 0.023" mig tip. (Anyone correct me if I have my imperial wrong). In these cases it is the ratios that matter. On my phone now so cannot easily find all the threads discussing the 1/2" T burner, there are a couple.
  9. That looks like a 1/2 inch Amal injector. There have been a couple of threads on them here on iforgeiron. Apparently with the right orifice size they can be tuned to be pretty hot and when used in a forge do not necessarily need a flare. (if I remember correctly) These are just 2 In no specific order I hope they are useful to you: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/59893-helium-tank-forge-with-amal-burner/ https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/60905-amal-burner/
  10. Hoi Thijs, This looks very promising, slip casting was on my list but never got around to trying it. I added the molochite clay to my mixture to counteract the shrinkage and water repelling properties associated with bentone somewhat. This worked for a clay body but I don't know if it would for casting slip. I'd have to try. Also this means less % zirconium silicate. It would be interesting to see your plaster molds in detail. All in all a nice contribution to the homebrew ceramics part of this forum. Keep us posted.
  11. Good question. I have been considerering this myself in the past. In theory a castable layer inside a soft brick forge would take 1) the direct flame contact, 2) prolong cool down time after shut off. (If thick enough) Whether or not point 2 will prevent degradation of the brick due to thermal shock is the interesting question. Of course different kinds of bricks have different properties when it comes to resisting thermal shock, I think some people with more recent experience on that will chime in. Long story short: potentially good idea. Maarten.
  12. I found it best to mix the components dry, I used a tumbler made from a piece of pipe.
  13. I found my old post. I found it best to my the components dry, I used a tumbler mad from a piece of pipe.
  14. This is Correct, it does have similar properties as Veegum in that it can take forever to dry. Using as little water as possible helps. I can confirm I had issues with cracking but this was when using only bentone and zirconium silicate directly applied on ceramic wool. I had better success adding a small percentage of calcined kaolin clay to the mix. This inhibits shrinking and decreases the drying time somewhat. Adding paper fiber increases the dry (green) strength and eases molding somewhat. I should have the exact numbers for the above mixture somewhere. I'll post them here when I find t
  15. Looks like the gauge indicates in MPa , megapascal. 1 MPa =10 bar if I googled correctly. So yours is in the 0 to 6 bar range. Which is overkill but gives you room to work in. (I run between 0.5 and 2 bar for 2 * 3/4 T-burner) I will leave bar to psi conversion to you.
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