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About MonkeyForge

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
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    Netherlands (Noord Holland)
  • Interests
    - Metalurgy (mostly steel)
    - Forges/forging (Gas)
    - Blades
    - Computers/Networking complex systems/Programming
    - Rock climbing

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  1. Good question. I have been considerering this myself in the past. In theory a castable layer inside a soft brick forge would take 1) the direct flame contact, 2) prolong cool down time after shut off. (If thick enough) Whether or not point 2 will prevent degradation of the brick due to thermal shock is the interesting question. Of course different kinds of bricks have different properties when it comes to resisting thermal shock, I think some people with more recent experience on that will chime in. Long story short: potentially good idea. Maarten.
  2. I found it best to mix the components dry, I used a tumbler made from a piece of pipe.
  3. I found my old post. I found it best to my the components dry, I used a tumbler mad from a piece of pipe.
  4. This is Correct, it does have similar properties as Veegum in that it can take forever to dry. Using as little water as possible helps. I can confirm I had issues with cracking but this was when using only bentone and zirconium silicate directly applied on ceramic wool. I had better success adding a small percentage of calcined kaolin clay to the mix. This inhibits shrinking and decreases the drying time somewhat. Adding paper fiber increases the dry (green) strength and eases molding somewhat. I should have the exact numbers for the above mixture somewhere. I'll post them here when I find them.
  5. Looks like the gauge indicates in MPa , megapascal. 1 MPa =10 bar if I googled correctly. So yours is in the 0 to 6 bar range. Which is overkill but gives you room to work in. (I run between 0.5 and 2 bar for 2 * 3/4 T-burner) I will leave bar to psi conversion to you.
  6. MonkeyForge

    Amal Burner

    Tim Gunn on this forum has used them extensively if I remember correctly. A quick search yielded this thread: The have been discussed in other threads a number of times. From what I know they make a quality product. Good luck.
  7. Hi Daedelus, Nice build. I will leave the flame evaluation up to the experts in the Burners 101 thread. I am also based in the Netherlands so I feel your pain getting parts. When it comes down to iron/black iron/ tainless fittings in imperial (be it BPT or NPT) most stores will not carry them any more, even the ones specialized in gas and heating. (I don't know if you are Dutch native or expat but for terminology this may make a difference) Also most copper plumbing will be metric so will have to convert at some point. ( which is evident from your photos as well) I can DM you some sites that are NL based and hold the plumbing you need in case you need to build a smaller burner or need new parts. The burner in your picture looks a bit over sized for the forge in the same picture. I made some T burners here in NL and a 1/2 inch Mikey burner that I will not discuss until it is proven.
  8. Being that member from the Netherlands: I have no conclusive results as of yet. I managed to get a shape from my clay/grog/zirconium silicate mixture (including paper fiber for molding and dry strength) But it has not been put to the test under heat yet. I have a lot going on at the moment, still read the threads here almost daily. I am mainly interested, at the moment, to see if we can take the zirconium silicate/molochite/bentonite mixture and have it double as both refractory and ir reflective coating. Refractory it is as I had it baked as a porcelain in a potters kiln at 1300/ 1350 centigrade . Apologies for not having anything conclusive but I thought it made sense to report the experiment is not dead, just stalled.
  9. I mixed everything dry, put all the powders in a jar with a lid an rolled an tumbeled that. The mixing instruction for bentone are different from the one for veegum. I remember reading on digital fire they recommend " a powerful. Mixer". If your mix is very Mike's paper towel suggestion may work, drywal or a plaster bat will too. Beware of of drying to fast though.
  10. Sounds like you have a plan. If you have the option to fire ceramics I would recommend making some small test tiles or even making the a couple of floor sized test tiles so you can use them in case of success. If you want a good comparison for reflectiveness you may best start with an uncoated chamber, e.g. just the zircopax "pot" and floor, coat after a couple of uses. Good luck and keep us posted.
  11. Merlin, The project happens to be a successful experiment. I had some failures which I then analyzed. That is mainly the trick to improving results. Either that or following a known, proven plan to the letter I just like mucking around and seeing what happens to learn how stuff works. As Mike says you seem to be doing fine. Just take notes of what you are doing and do your best to understand why stuff did/did not work.
  12. I was thinking to make an additional tile that slides in and out of the half tube. As the half tube sits on top of the slab. I intend to take the whole assembly to welding heat and weld. Even though the tile may be resistant to flux, molten borax will leave a bit if a mess so it is nice to be able to take a part out for cleaning. I have high hopes for flux resistance in this material but for now it is untested. Seeing is believing. . The test tiles I made before are very hard and dense even at 5mm and also very resistant to shock an abrasion. On a side note, uncoated ceramic wool will melt when exposed to molten borax. A simple thin coating of zircon, blanket rigidizer and kaolin will prevent this, though not indefinitely. Some other members here may attest to that.
  13. These particular pieces contain paper fiber which I mainly used for the added green strength and it somewhat speeds up the drying. Also I knew I needed to transport them. For the percentages I used: - Zircon 66.91% (or 82.19% minus water and paper) - Bentone 2.23% (or 2.74% minus water and paper) - Molochite 12.27% (or 15.07% minus water and paper) - Paper fiber 3.72% - Water 14.87% I will do a complete write up later. I am curious to see how this performs under heat. Next step is to make two parts for the front and back of the half cylinder, insulation and a shell.
  14. I have been able to make some nice shapes with a mixture of Zirconinum silicate, Molochite (calcined Kaolin) and Bentone (similar to Veegum, different brand) I had it fired as a porcelain at my local potter but small tiles can be fired in your forge. Getting the ingredients at a pottery supply in small quantities can also prove costly compared to other refractories. The aforementioned mixture roughly costs 6 dollars per pound. I would not be able to answer your question regarding cerium oxide as I have no hands-on with it. (Also pretty happy with Zirconium silicate mixtures I have tried so far without additions) Picture below is my latest experiment, still in the green state. A flat floor and half a tube. (it has survived firing but have no pictures yet.. I will start a separate thread with more details as I build a forge around it.) It is a little over 5 mm thick.
  15. I think you are making good progress and I am looking forward to more of your results. I will probably construct e new small (150/200 cubic inch) forge and may consider "converting" one of my NA burners to a ribbon burner. (They just screw on and off anyway ) Frankly I am surprised more people haven't responded to your post. Good luck tuning and looking forward to more.