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It is probably not chlorine Ausfire. More likely to be small amount of hydrocloric acid carried into the air by the bubbling. I have some experience of hydrogen fire and it is not particularly dangerous in an operation of this type because the amounts generated is small and it is not confined in a vessel that may burst. However, mixtures of hydrogen and air will usually detonate when ignited (Meaning that the flame propagates faster then the speed of the sound) so there is bang like a gunshot. Gasoline or propane leaks are much more dangerous. I remember a welder being scared out of his wits when he was welding above a foam of hydrogen in water (at least a cubic foot of the stuff) Whenever a spark fell into the foam there was a noise of shotgun level but absolutely no harm to anything whatsoever. I think smoking is generally bad for you and in this case more so than usual becuse you might get your moustache singed off.

Yea, moose and bears are the dangerous ones here too. An angry mose might kill you but so might an angry cow. It is very seldom it happens - perhaps once in fifty years. The danger is if you hit them with your car. A moose is so high and heavy that it will push down the roof and break your neck in most cars. Our bears are very shy but the occasional hunter may get mauled once every few years. Last year, a youth managed to ski through a bear's lair and got severely bitten but after being patched up he survived without lasting injuries. I would proably have bitten him myself if a skiing guy appeared in my bed when I was asleep. Yellowjackets and hornets do kill people who are allergic or swallow them when they (the insects) try to steal soft drinks. However I usually leave them alone since they keep flies and moskitos down.

I live in a country where it is a crime to kill any reptile or amphibian. We only have one venomous snake species and that kills about one person each century. I suppose the law might be different if we had rattlers.

Exactly what I do. To me "Mental rehearse of the operations" is very helpful. Very simple repetitive pieces like "Tent pins" I tend to have 2-3 in the fire at the same time but otherwise only one at a time.

The most important items have already been covered above. Personally I am a fan of the light tent. Just one thing: If you have a tripod, (and I agree 100% with Glenn) stop down to about 11 rather than 8 At least for my (Canon OS) this gives maximum resolution. If you need depth of field stop down even more. Not many amateur photographers know that very small apertures (22 and upwards) give slightly lower sharpness due to diffraction - but they do give good depth of field and in most cases the depth of field is more important.

If you direct the "jet" into a straight pipe it will work but if you feel OK with the fan being able to take the heat you will be well off with it. You mentioned cost and this becomes a question of balancing power consumption and investment. If you use a motor that runs too fast (the original one?) and you feel that you get too much draft you can strangle the pipe somewhere. It is counter-intuitive but the load on the motor actually decreases if you strangle. Look up centrifugal fan theory.

The maker was lazy. In Germany this ring is called "Faulenzer"=Lazy one/someone who does not like to work.

This is part of "Sigurdsristningen" showing Sigurd/siegfrid (right) licking the blood from the dragons heart which he holds in his right hand and the dead smith to the left and smiths tools between them. Obviously the most common design in Viking times.

Yes. You will create suction in the horizontal pipe if it is done right and the suction can be adjusted by moving the blower. The main idea is to keep the blower cool. Most blowers do not like hot gases. I have done it myself, using an old vacuum cleaner as blower, to get the smoke out horizontally, from a funnel above the fire. I did not like to take a hole in my roof. In my climate that is a continous source of irritation. In my case, the tee sits above the fire and the cleaner blows horizontally into the pipe but the idea is the same and my exhaust works great. Zero smoke in the shop if the vac is blowing..

Pictures please!

There is a pocket in the left lag of what is usually referred to as "Lederhosen" - we said "lederbuchsen". In that you stick a knife (with antler handle). I have eaten at tables where half the crew was using that knife instead of a flatware knife because of the shortage just after the war. No I was not around during the "real" renaissance this was early fifties in Bavaria.

My applauses Frosty. You really got the basics down on paper - well screen.

Use it as it but use it as an extractor. Then you do not get the hot gasses in the wheel. You can also vary the suction by changing how much external air the contraption will suck. In principle you end the horizontal pipe with a tee. One end goes up over roof and you blow into the other with some kind of deflector or funnel.

A very interesting book Apart from being fashionating, it gives a lot of background to what is going on in the area now.

Hear Hear. My own experience is that ignorant customers always interfered with (read downgraded) my design ("This is the way we do it here - we never did this before but this is the way we did it"). Knowledgable customers may have some request for change but never a downgrade.

Reading the first time I wondered who would drive a Rolls Royce into the desert and leave it. (The early phantoms and ghosts had braces under the chassis)

As Waughn said: The twisted version is an earlier design but it is not only more difficult to make but also inferior since it is likely to make a hole in the cork when pulled if the cork is old as in a vintage bottle. Then you have your precious wine contaminated by cork flakes and have to pry the cork out with another tool. Believe me. I know. Perhaps that design was used because it could be made in softer steel and could not be straightened out as the wire design can if too soft.

Their alloy varies from make to make. There is a wide range available. People tend to buy the cheap ones not realizing that the more expensive last so much longer that they are cheaper in the long run. I have only seen a fractured one once but since they stay in the mill until so small that they get out through the exit grid I assume most fractured ones just disappear.

I have the odd mouse drowned in the slack tub. And wasps and hornets trying to nest. And the occasional little bird flying in through the door and trying to get out through the window pane. Some years ago the cellphone woke me up at 2 AM in Vienna. The security chap wanted to know how to let the owl out that had gone down through the chimmney in the summer house.

Thank you Joist it is. I believe the Odyssee was written by an otherwise unknown man called Homeros - or by quite another unknown man with the same name.

Sorry No not complete but the main ingridient is unobtanium mined in farawaistan.

Also If the customer is too stupid or lazy to handle the equipment right he is likely to blame the equipment for his own shortcomings and replace with something very inferior that he understands without thinking. Dont ask me how I know

No I have not disassembled the vise. I simply do not have the time. When I do, I want to do a thorough job and restore all the intended functionality. That will take me several days. Biggest problem: This vise is designed to pivot around a vertical axis. The mount is cylindrical and there is a locking screw at the back and two screws that tighten the mount. Unfortunately the leg is broken(cut?) a little above floor level and someone has welded an L-bar to it. Presently I have the bar stuck into my dirt floor. I can neither use the rotating facility nor do I have a good support for the leg. My intention is to remove the L-bar. To take a piece of pipe and, using the leg as mandrel, shape it to fit the (tapered) leg. To heat the pipe and force it onto the (cold) leg. To cast a piece of concrete into the floor with an integral piece of heavy plate on top. To turn a stud that fits in a hole in the plate and also fits the pipe. To put in a couple of washers so I can adjust heights if something moves. The too high jaw does not make a problem at "jaw level" The error is far too small to make a problem. You are probably right that someone has messed with the bolt and holes. Since it is a German style vise, the intention is that the vertical force be transmitted to the plates by the plate top surface. As it is, there is a (slight) play there so the force is taken up by shear in the bolt instead. The play is less than half a millimeter. It is bad engineering practice to try to take the load simultaneously on the bolt and on the bearing surfaces and I prefer to have the load transmitted by the bearing surfaces. I think that is a superior design. Thus a quick fix would be an undersize bolt. I could imagine that the original design used holes slightly elongated vertically and that someone has reamed them to circular and put in an oversize bolt. (Or that the original play has been filled by rust) I will know better when I have taken it apart but presently I guess that I will elongate the hole in the jaw stem slightly upwards and fit a new bolt. The horizontal shear on the bolt is far less than the vertical caused by pounding. In a a German style vice I do not want the bolt to be a tight fit vertically since I do not want it to take the load.

I hava a gluten-free hammer for sale but very expensive. Any takers?