pjh66

Very nice. Im sure she was very pleased with it.

very nice work

I have clinker breaker in 2 forges & slots in 2. both are great. With the breaker by working it you dump the small clinker & ash down into ash dump. I made my grates to lift out to be able to clean any jammed lumps out ash still work through. grate is recessed so when poking around in the fire it can't move.

When you work out that they are in the right slot. I would suggest marking them & the chuck with number stamp. The first jaw to come out when undoing them is normally No 3 & don't forget to mark up your outside jaws also. It will make it easier in the future.

Do the jaws close up even in centre? If so then they are in the right place. It could be stiff because of contamination in the scroll or burring in the slides of the the jaws.

They look very nice. The guy should be very happy with them.

We going to share the bottle around? Nice work. Keep them coming.

For me the horn is to my left when facing toward the anvil, so the upset block is on the side closes to me. Hard facing talk to a welding supply near you about it. They should be able to advise you. Check out the anvil I made here. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.317237525051985.68928.315279835247754&type=3 for what I mean.

Looking good I found it easier to fabricate the hardie hole then weld it into the anvil. You can get a much neater fit. I would suggest hard faceing if you have access to the equipment. A couple of layers would be good. If you want to round up the horn more multiple small bevels and a 9" grinder with a new disc laid flat works good. Putting an upset block on your near side is a big help for you also. Keep us posted as to how you go with it.

Find some classes to do or someone who can teach you before buying any. Stick welders are versatile, rods are mild steel, low hydrogen, cast, stainless, hardfaceing, tool steel. Another thing to consider when buying is the power source needed to run the machine. Don't discount the cheap import stick welders either. I have a cheap $90 130amp stick welder that I got about 6 years ago with 3 yr warranty. plugs into a standard household power point. Small & light weight. You can buy bigger & better later. Stick welders can be used in the wind on rusty material even painted, just scrap enough paint off to start an arc & watch out for the fumes. The other thing to consider would be a tig welder which most can be used as a stick welder also. AC / DC tigs are better then a straight DC tig as you need AC for aluminium welding. I think 1st is some classes then think about what type of work you will be doing with it.

Looking good. Next project..... more tongs, like scroll tongs. Garden ornaments, and the list goes on.

Looks great to me. Scrolls look even, upsets for feet look central and even. I like the finish of it also. Having only the three clips will give stability to what you sit on it. Great work

Just a wild guess on the boss from the pic it could be for a shaft to hold a length stop in. Maybe. Never had anything to do with one of these. just a thought.

I would recommend at least a set of UN thread gauges, a set of vernier calliper and some sort of thread reference book. You made need to get a set of metric gauges also. The larger range of thread pitch it covers the better. UN gauge can be used on whitworth. The difference is UN has a 60deg angle thread & whitworth is 55deg. Both are measured how many threads per inch. Metric is also 60deg but is measured millimetres per thread. If you can take the bolt out probably easier just to take it to your local fastener supplier & ask them for a nut to fit the bolt. As HWooldridge said a machinery hand book is great to have for all metal workers and there is a heap of information in it.

please keep me informed sounds like a great idea

Here in Aust. most Bright mild steel is 1020 or 1030

Welcome to blacksmithing. You have come to the right place to find information. ABAQLD http://www.blacksmiths-australia.com/index_files/Page448.htm is about getting everyone that is interested in hitting hot metal a go. Check it out , talk to mike, come & have some fun. Any worries let me know.

Too Cool I want 1

Gday everyone. My heart goes out to any that got hit with this flood. We were lucy my shed had about 4 foot of water through it so got to dry & clean everything in it (20' x 40' shed). Oil & mud through it. Welder, grinders, motors, blacsmith tools, machineing tools, ect all the things we have in a shed. But as I said we were lucky if it got another 10" higher it would have come through our house. My parents are at Forrest Hill in the Lockyer Valley & I have spent the last couple of day there cleaning mud out of thier house but still they are lucky too they got air lifted out on Teusday before it hit the house and it seems that they have only lost some cupboards, books, floor coverings. And a lot of sleep lol as we have. I saw a shot of where a brick house was & only the concret slab is now left. They said on the news Just before that they found a body 80Km down stream from where they went missing. Thinking of any caught up in this mess all the best.

Very nice work Dylan You sho;d be very happy with what you have made. It will last a very long time I hope you put your mark on them for others to see who made them.

Struth how is the bus? Seriously all my best to him. Hope he recovers soon.

couple more pics in action

Just posting for comments my new & only air hammer that I made. It has a 300mm high opening / stroke. Im not sure on the strikes/min. The hammer / slide head is 18Kg(39Lb) I still have to finish cleaning it up & wack some paint on it. I will post a couple more pics when I have. Will have to try to take a video of it working. Would like to hear your opinions.

Just posting my new anvil that I have made. I was after a smaller anvil that is easy to move about & transport as the first anvil I made is 100Kg (220Lb) it is to hard to transport easily. Total Wieght is 50Kg / 110Lb I oxy/lpg cut the top from 100mm thick Bisaloy 80 Plate Then trimed Horn shape & heel. I then bevaled the horn & ground to shape with 9" angle grinder Finished with file. The hardie hole I drilled 4 smal holes through inside the courner area. Then drilled through with 1" drill I then chiseld out sides & die ground with carbide bur close to size. Drifted through with 1"sq tool steel tool bit. The wasit is 2 pieces of 1.25" thick plate cut to shape preped & welded then welded to underside of top of anvil & welded to base plate. I heated the top & top of horn with oxy heating head until surface a dull red starting to show (about 1/2 hr to get to this) Then quenched with water & compressed air ( cool quicker when compressed air is used to blast water on) A 3/8 dia bearing droped from 12" will bounce up about 9" a file will still cut but not well. Let me know what you all think.