Crazy Ivan

I think in the case of a pattern welded blade, there is something to be said about forging over stock removal. If you forge a pattern welded blade as close to finished shape as possible, the pattern will flow with the contours of the blade where as stock reduction of a billet will cut out some of the patterns. As to grain though, that is controlled through HT and not the method you profile the blade. So yes, its is wrong but there is slight relevance as a reach into pattern welded blades. (Not suggesting it would make a pattern welded blade any stronger or weaker however)

Dang fine work! I love seeing tools properly restored.

Fileing wasn't something I had thought of. I have always fullered slighly less than my intended finished depth, then when it came time to twist the jaw, I would forge the twist out. A quick draw filing would take off any high spots on the boss, rivet, adjust and done. I have never bought tong blanks before though and always make them myself. I try and do most of my work with a hammer as I despise finish work like filing, grinding, etc.

I agree and do the same. I'm curious about people who don't do this. Wondering what their experience has been if this is just a theory thing or if it has affected anybody in the ways we are both saying.

I have been seeing more and more tongs made from flat stock fullered and forged out and then twisting the bit lately. I like this method well enough but I noticed that most folks do not bother to forge out the twist between the boss and the big. IMO it is ugly and it also makes me wonder if it affects the strength of the jaw over time (any twisting or bending over time while in use?). Im also thinking if you leave the twist in, it could cause the boss to bind in some cases. This may not be the case but either way, I'm wondering who here forges the twist square (as you would for a penny scroll) after the twist and who leaves the twist visible. What are yalls thoughts/preferences?

They are also great for detailed engraving. The flared bit makes chiseling in curves easier since you won't get any binding while turning on a radius. The are used for cold work.

I've seen video of them being forged on large presses and hammers but I can't quite remember the alloy or manufacturer being shown.

Good to see you decided to join this forum. As we say, pack a lunch and a cold drink before entering. There is so much knowledge here to be had a click away on most questions you may have. Enjoy! -Pete

I'm thoroughly embarrassed about that "learning experience". I knew that stock forged slightly tougher than mild but not quite medium carbon and should have tested it before finishing that tong. There was some alloy that didn't agree with our forging. Lesson learned lol. The tongs not shown that we were making fractured shortly after finishing 1/2 the pair from cooling. Oh well, half the fun of unknown steel is when it is finished and nice and then breaks apart when you aren't even touching it (nervous laugh)....at least these tongs and the eye punch turned out nicely enough I can sleep at night again lol.

I still haven't seen the most terrifying one listed yet. The worst thing to hear from your old lady is silence. Nothing shakes my bones more than the silent stare when I walk into the room.

The numbers are cwt. 1st number is incriments of 112 lbs, 2nd is incriments of 28 lbs, 3rd is single lbs. The weight should be somewhere around 187 lbs give or take a few lbs. Can't help with a date. We love pictures though

You forget that when I come over you get to swing a 14 lb aledge for me while I use a cool 3lber lol. I'm so nice

There are quite a few pages on here dedicated to Peddinghaus anvils. Look in the "anvil reviews" section and there is one titled "Peddinghaus, the drop forged anvil" or something similar. They have been discussed in detail there. As for the pitting, that is up to what you require. It may not be an issue or it might be a huge problem. That's your call though.

I'm wondering if maybe something was lost in speach here. Now as much as its possible he bought into the myth that the carbon in oil increases carbon content....hopefully that's not the case. He may have been referring to how the oil will harden on the surface (like a well seasoned cast iron pan) if dunked at a black heat? Just speculating and giving the demoing Smith the benefit of the doubt here.

That's really nice, good work. I especially like the wrapped collars on it. Are they hiding welds or do they solely hold it together?

Tobbe malm is great. He does not do any tutorials that I've seen but if you want to get those creative juices flowing his videos are great.

Im in Allentown on the south side. Not too far from you. Give me a shout if you want any help/ guidance.

Nice piece!

anytime you feel like it, I'm down to burn some coal. Just tell me when. I have a fair bit of free time while I'm sparsely employed so don't hesitate! Lol.

Welcome Joe, I am in Pittsburgh as well. If you ever need any 1st hand help/lessons/advice I am probably not all that far away. Feel free to drop me a line anytime and welcome to your new addiction. It's a slippery slope this one lol.

I saw a real monster once. A glass blower/ Smith just outside Gainesville FL in a town called Archer had a post vise with 12" jaws. My jaw dropped about 12" upon seeing it too. I can't recall the weight of it, but it was something else. Especially for a tool nerd such as myself.

I'm a firm believer in equality so we both put the seat all the way down. Not just the seat, but the lid too. That way we both get equal opportunities to complain about the same thing.

I would love to one day. Always wanted to check it out down there.

That was a good time Doug. There is a whole lot of skill in PABA and that shop is something to admire all on its own! It's too bad I missed this one but I look forward to the next one. Hopefully I can make it out. Daswulf and I had good forge time on this side of the state at least.

I keep getting the forbidden bug. I'll keep trying to post pictures. In the second picture you see the parent stock. The line closest to you in the picture ws cut from the stock. Going up, you see two vertical lines which were cut away leaving the center column which was folded and welded to create the eye to accept the bar and wedge to hold the bracket to the vice. The furthest section in the image was split down the center and each piece was drawn down and curves/punched to make the mounting points. It worked out well and I had a good time making it. Another vice restored to good working order!