Crazy Ivan

IIRC That is where Brian and Karen live. Hope Y'all are safe and didn't get any damage.

When I was starting out, I didn't have many tools (tongs specifically) and would frequently use tongs that were not adjusted properly for the piece I was working on...Until the day the hot piece flew out of my tongs and bounced off my safety glasses and burned my face (thanks to the glasses, I still have two working eyes). After that I always took the time to make a new set of tongs for any work that did not fit what I had. It also led to my love for tool making! So Now I only use the proper tools for the job, no matter how small. I'll always have that tool for the future and properly fitted tools make working that much easier/efficient.

I can't recall where I read this. "The difference between a master and a beginner is that the master has failed more times then the beginner has even attempted"

I keep everything I need in my backpack...and right now thats all I have! 40 LBS of gear keeps me rolling all year and safe in any weather the Continental U.S. can throw at me. Layers and keeping from sweating in the cold are a must. Started sweating?...stop and drop a layer. We will see how well I am outfitted come spring when I head to AK though....I think I will need some slightly better waterproof boots, mine are getting pretty worn by now.

Those are beautiful. I'd hardly want to USE it!...Then again...

Met up with another smith today from FABA in South Florida. We had a bunch of fun, and of course...I made more tools LOL. Had to dust off the cob webs a bit (it's been about a month and a half-2 months since I've forged) starting off with a pair of bolt head tongs which IMO left alot to be desired asthetically but functiond perfectly well none the less. Also started a matched set of (Mark Aspery styled) slot and drift sets. I got invited back next weekend to do some more forging too. That will be my last weekend in the South Florida area before I have to head back up north to look after my girlfriend after her surgery for a couple weeks. February I will be making my way south again, and then west to California and the Pacific North West. All these twists and turns in my journey sure keep things interesting for me! I'm also exited to be back at my own shop for a couple weeks in between "honey-do s". None of that matches how exited I will be to see my dog again though! My head is spinning with how awesome everything has been so far in my trip and there is no end in sight! Going where it feels right and meeting other fellow smiths on the way is really shaping up to be a memory I will never forget. I hope to run into more of you folks in my travels. It's been a blessing thus far!

I voulenteer to be that person. Free to a good home right? :D

I think DSW defined it as well as anyone can without picture references as to the "short, spray, etc" (and just about everything else he mentioned). I don't have time at the moment but if I can think of any good reference material I will PM it to you when I can if you want.

Working as a structural Ironworker for years, I constantly found myself welding overhead and just generally out of position (in more rediculous positions then most people can imagine). After taking the time to get certified with differnt processes/wire, and thicknesses of steel I learned a few things. Since you are MIG welding, I'll keep it to that. Push the puddle, don't pull it (for overhead especially). This keeps the heat ahead of you so the weld will cool faster and not drip off as you move. Use a weaving/whipping motion (whichever you prefer. I use all sorts depending on the situation). The most important thing however with overhead MIG is to make sure you are running a "short arc transfer" "spray-arc" will work for nothing but flat, same with "globular-arc". Pulse arc is ideal but many (most) folks don't have that option as pulsed-arc MIG welders are significanly more expensive. Good wire makes a slight differnce with MIG but nothing too noteable IMO. Also, changing the polarity is not an option unless you swap from Gas sheilding to flux cored in which case you would switch polarity of your machine. Play with your wire feed rate if you like your heat and make it sound like cloth tearing (the best way I can describe the sound). It should sound smooth and static. If the gun jumps or bucks in your hand, turn the wire feed down a bit or check to be sure you have a solid ground. If you look closely, and you see single globs of wire flowing into the puddle instead of roughly three (globular transfer), turn up your feed a bit. Quick re-cap: travel speed, gun angle, polarity (depending on which wire you are using), and wire speed. Also as advised above, make sure you have the proper sheilding gas. Hope this helps.

Those are awesome openers! On the ones with a textured pattern to them, were they finished over expanded sheet metal or did you forge weld expanded metal to them?

While I may not let most things get in my way, the people I care about come first no matter where I am. She is definitely one tough cookie and does not need me around to do anything in her day to day, but when she asks, I know it is important. Plus, It will sure be nice to see her (and my dog) again.

The freedom I showcase is a direct result of having literally nothing growing up on the streets. In hindsight it was very good to me in that sense. I hold LIVING a life much higher then just existing. I let nothing get in my way of an adventure and regard material possesions as just that...its nothing that comes with me when I leave this world so why let them hold me down while I'm here!? Many folks have too much vested (in people or property) to be in the situation I am now and I respect that, but encourage those who don't to enjoy life the best way they see fit the best way they know how to. If all goes right, by the time I die, I will have forgotten more stories then many folks could remember. Similar as how many folks on this forum have forgotten more tricks n tips in the shop then I could ever hope to remember. As a side note, since you are in Maine, have I seen/met you at any New England Blacksmiths meets? I am the oddest looking one there with face tattoos and as of a few days ago, dreadlocks. LOL.

Quick update: I got a part itme job working for an artist here in Lake Worth FL welding alumuinum! He also wants me to set up a blacksmith shop in his studio to build tongs and other tools for him. He works with ceramics as well and has all the supplies to build a gas forge. Gonna set up a stump with a 16-20 LB sledge as an anvil and make a cutoff tool to mount in the stump. I'll post pics when it it set up. *(show you newbies how cheap you can get yourself set up for). I'll also post a rough cost to get it set up and what I make for tooling for his shop. On a down note, my girlfriend back in Boston has torn liaments in her ankle and needs me to come back for a few weeks to take care of her while she recovers from an upcoming surgery. Luckily though, I will still have a job down here in sunny South Florida when I get back and also have my airfare covered there and back after she is able to take care of herself and my dog again. So in a few days-a week I will be back in Boston. I think it would also be a great opportunity to dusk off my favorite anvil and tooling and put the ol girl back to work! I will hopefully make some things to sell on the road while back at my shop/home. Never a dull moment!

TIG welder, Porta-band, and a IR reflective coating in my gas forge.

Is it an option for you to use ZRC spray paint? (Zinc Rich Coating). It come in a rattle can over here across the pond and works well as a touch up after aleterations on galvinazed works.

Riffing off of Patricks idea, Possibly a form for a silver or tin candle holder. 2 sides that would then be soldered or riveted together after dishing the blank?

Ric is a member of IFI. You can find him on this site Via searchbar (members). There is also a video call 'Secrets of The Viking Sword' featuring him which shows him making a crucible and creating crucible steel.

I don't have a guess as to the make of that one, but there is no evidence of it being cast, plus the handling holes under the horn and heel suggest a forged (likely wrought iron) body with a forge welded face plate. The absense of a cutting block and general shape of it suggests an older style. There were loads of english anvils made very similar to that style so its hard to guess. Either way it looks to be in great shape!

Well Frosty, I will be heading uip to Anchorage to work/visit my brother come Spring time. Meadow Lakes doesn't look too far from there. I'll drop you a line when I get up there and see whats up! For right now though, I think I'll stay in South Florida for a bit longer. Cant beat 80 degrees and warm ocean water in November!

I am in Lake Worth FL now. I had an awesome time working with Leslie and was sad to go. We designed a grille together before i left (last minute and unexpectedly) and i hope you can finish it....and post some pictures! maybe I'll have to drop by again on my way back through and lend a hand again before heading west. It was so great to meet you and i hope you benefitted as much from my visit as I did.

After you pointed that out i tool a closer look and it actually looks like 3/4 of the face is missing.... Also if there is a slight recess under the heel/hardy hole, it xan be a sign of wedge designed hardy tools being used in the past. Jim Coke told me about those and you may be able to find pics on gallery.

Possibly to accept tooling for heavier work then you could do over the heel? As for the holes on the cutting block, i've heard that they were sonetimes used for riveting in standardized work...can't say for sure though. Mostly i just want to hear what others with more experience have to say.

I can't see them either Dodge....

Here are a couple pictures Leslie took (if you look past the tattoos on my face, you will notice how happy I am to be forging!). I will try to get one of the both of us posted after we meet up tomorrow too. Here is a hot cut hardy made from a large bolt from a scrap yard. Incomplete in the picture. And me demonstrating a drop tong weld on matched scarfs with no flux. I missed the first three welds but the 4th try was the ticket. Funny how that only seems to happen when there are people or cameras involved LOL.

I just checked with her to make sure it was okay to put her name on her and she said it is fine. Leslie Tharp is the smith I have been working with in Gainesville. We also went for a canoe trip up and down a river about 20 miles north of her shop...I wonder if it is the same river you mentioned. There were a lot of springs along the route so I'm sure there must be a few underwater carverns somewhere along it. Small world huh?