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Current common size is 5/8 square x 6.5 long, the other size is 9/16 square x 5.5" If you paid less then $1 each you did OK, they are available new for ~$2 each from McMaster.com ($11.76 & $9.87 per pack of 5). IIRC they go for about $1 each when bought from a RR Material supplier in Keg quantities (~200pcs). Even though plenty can be found next to the tracks I would not suggest walking near the tracks picking up spikes, especially in the terrorist scared society we currently live in. Walking in the Right of Way (corridor maintained by the railroad) is considered trespassing, despite the amount of people that do it regularly. If you can, wait until the local railroad is doing tie replacement and talk to the crew during one of their breaks, if they are in a good mood and there is no rumor of a manager or higher visiting the site, you maybe able to get enough used spikes to fill a 5 gal pail if not a pickup bed (I suggest bringing baked items and better then average coffee, but not Yuppie grade...) Rich C. Ct Eastern RR Museum Willimantic, Ct 06615 www.cteastrrmuseum.org

With the bring a hammer suggestion, I would suggest bring just the head, the handle can be made to fit his preference, also may travel easier (airport security). Other option would be a bick anvil. Not positive, but a lump of steel should be considered less of a weapon then a hammer to customs & the TSA screeners. What is the availability of soapstone or silver pencils in the area? If hard to get, a dozen would probably be appreciated. Also raid a 5 & dime / dollar store for volumes non-battery powered of kid toys. Rich C. P.S. Have fun, Be Safe, and unless you have an iron stomach avoid the well water where possible (unless you know it is treated) as your body is not used to the local bugs. Diarrhea and similar gastrointestinal problems do not make foreign travel fun.

Quarry, I have been using the same bucket for about 8 years, could be mine is lasting as it is a non-soldered (dry product) galvanized bucket. When I shut down I dampen the coals, and pick out the clinker as I shovel it into the bucket and thorough soak everything in the bucket, and let the water filter out of the bucket, by the following weekend most of the coke is usually dry. I have tried using a plastic bucket, but unfortunately hot coke will float on water. Melted a few holes at the water line (bucket was a thin walled one, not thick like a 5 gal pail) Rich C.

With the zinc plating, galvanized metal and the cadmium plated metal there is a simple solution. Found out by accident. Evapo-Rust rust remover will strip it from the steel. I was derusting an item and used some cad plated nuts and zinc plated pins (random grab out of the misc fastener bag) to space it off the bottom of the pan, as soon as the evapo-rust touched nuts and pins the plating reacted forming a foamy looking strings. After the rust was removed from the part, I washed the part, nuts and pins and the immediately flash rusted as soon as they air dried (cloth drying and/or quick shot of light oil needed to prevent flash rust). As was found out either here or over on Practical machinist forum, Evapo-Rust is sold in different dilutions, the stuff at Harbor freight is relatively weak, whereas the stuff sold at Eastwood.com is pretty strong and is good for multiple reuses (Just make sure anything you treat is always covered with the solution, either deep pan or recirculation pump, otherwise steel will pit at the liquid line). If you have a plating service remove the chrome, make sure they also remove the nickle plating, which is under the chrome (not sure if they use the same acid in both cases). If it rusts then the nickle has been removed. Rich C.

Looks like everyone is putting the tab on the handle size, does anyone make them with the tab on the far side, so you are pushing down to open, instead of lifting (other than hook style)? If so how thick is the ring? Rich C.

Robbie, Welcome to the world of blacksmithing. 90% of the time I use riveting forges, I have yet to line one of them. I have had 3 over the last 10 years. One I bought cracked (oblong Buffalo) which I am repairing as I find the time during the summer (to minimize the cracking as it cools), one was a Champion 400 that I replaced the stock rotted welded pan with a 20" skillet from Cabella's, and my current one is about 1/2 the weight of the champion, which is why I sold the champion to another smith. There are 2 main reasons I never use clay or refractory cement. Primary is that Coal ash is acidic, and gets trapped between the lining and the cast iron, any condensation turns the ash into sulfuric acid. Secondary is that I don't have a shop so I have to travel with the forge so any liner would get knocked loose. I have yet to get a really hot pan as the heat rises and I splash water onto the outer ring of coal/coke to concentrate the fire over the tuyere (air hole). As long as you don't douse the fire with water you won't crack it, I have had water sizzling on the pan surface under the coal, but it was from light splashes of water, so the water was warm before it touched the metal. At the end of the day, I just pull the coal away from the tuyere and wait 15-20 minutes (either jaw jacking or packing up), till I can place my hand on the underside of the pan without burning myself, then it is safe to douse the remaining coal, which I store in a galvanized bucket (not a water tight one) until the next use. Have fun and keep striking,. Rich C.

As a volunteer at a Railroad Museum and someone that windmills on occasion, so far every video shown shows half strikes. The Windmill swing is readily noticeable as neither hand moves from the end of the handle, and the head rolls away from the striker after it hits to salvage some of the momentum in starting the swing. Personally not sure if I would want to be that close to the metal when striking that hard, and not sure how it would translate to hitting something waist height, though the circus roust-abouts are windmilling at that height driving the tent stakes. spiking starts at 4:40 (overall movie is also good shows semi modern trackwork) Regards, Rich C.

Thomas, for clairification, I know you made the vertical piece, but is the spike maul for size reference or were you converting it into a large bick? Any shot of the iron plant in the corner of the first photo? It looks interesting. Regards, Rich C.

As far as the depth of fire comment and the wetting coal. I use both a rivet forge and a fire pot with coal. When I use the fire pot, the coal is about 2 inches above the flange, and I splash water on either side of the pot to narrow the fire and create a coke layer between the fire and wall of the pot. If the coal is relatively clean, I will burn a cave out of the coke which creates an oven to heat the metal quicker. With a Rivet forge the pan is filled to the rim and I create a 3 sided volcano about 5-6" tall, sometimes it will become a narrow valley. I tend to find people keep their coal too thin in a rivet forge. I don't believe (found it to be to troublesome) in soaking the coal unless it was stored in a heated building for a year, and if I soak it, it is allowed to drain for a week. If the coal is too damp it will be hard to start, and if it is dripping wet then there is too high of a possibility of quenching the fire pot/pan as water flows through the coke when added to an established fire (this is what usually causes the cast iron to stress crack). With the forge in the picture, as mentioned above drill a 1/16 hole about 1/2" beyond what looks like the end of the crack (crack tends to go further than it looks even after wire brushing). This will release the stress in the metal, the cracks around the tuyere should not be a problem because of the bolts on either side. The one on the rim, I would take a strap of steel 1/8 x 1" and bolt it through the rim with either a second strap (preferred) on the other side or thick fender washers. Drill the bolt holes a little on the close side, so that you can pass the bolts through, but they rub against the holes in the forge. As far as the first forge, if you place a piece of tissue paper or newsprint (4-6" square) over the tuyere and crank normal, there should be enough air coming through the tuyere to launch the paper. If it doesn't then you probably have a clog or impeller problem. Rich C.

Basher, Don't forget these weren't originally direct driven, so the 3/4HP rating is the loading demand being added to a spinning lineshaft with 100s of ft-lbs of flywheel inertia. This is why you have to up the HP so much to get the impact needed unless you insert some rotating mass between the motor and clutch. Rich C.

Mofokay, The cast iron overarm and springs, is that something you fabricated or salvaged? Great Job, Rich C.

I think I know the video you are talking about, this one is similar: Rich C. I think I may have stumbled across the other video: see what you think.

Well... what about the hammers and forge ?.?.?.? :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: http://www.stahlseite.de/galerieschmied1.htm Then again there is the `Light duty' tongs :rolleyes: Rich C.

ndnchf, Was looking at the photo of your wife using the forge, your fire is looks too shallow, center should be 2-3" taller then the rim minimum. If you go higher then you can create a cave which heats the metal quicker. To make the cave, after you get the fire going good and deep, add green coal over the top and dampen. Let it burn and coke up, pull a few pieces of coal out to open a small hole into the fire core. As you work, scrape coal from the inside into the fire, add green coal to the cave arch and keep it damp. After the cave approaches the size of a tennis ball, you can also slowly break out the far side and now you have a nice tunnel that throws heat at all sides of the iron. Feed the fire with coke that you have created outside the cave. A soup can on a rod or a cut-off gatorade bottle is your friend with a rivet forge, periodically take a cup full of water and wet the coal outside of the active fire. This will do 2 things, keep the fire smaller and more efficient and build up a stock of coke as the heat will penetrate the wet coal to boil off the light oils, but not allow the coke to get hot enought to burn. Also this will prevent you from overheating and shocking your pan (for those of you using cast iron). Have fun. Rich C.

Usually I keep the coal in a wood hopper, with boards across the top, spaced apart enough to let rain and snow melt through, but tight enough to stop the leaves. Growing up heating with hard coal, it was a 5-7 ton pile left outside and 6-10 wheelbarrow loads in a bin in the basement. Almost nothing was stored inside durring the sumer to keep the dust down, and the left over was raked into a small pile in the bin, and was placed ontop of the next load in the fall. As far as contained coal, I have (2) 50 gal drums of quality coal (for when I really need clean fire) that have been sealed with a clamp ring for over 4 years, the woven plastic bags on top of the coal (in the barrels) have no heat damage. Then again where I got the coal was outdoors storage so the barrel lid is always dripping with condensation whenever I go into it (basically I have (2) 50 gallon coal filled terrariums). The way I have been told, the best way to store coal is outside where it is kept in the shade and wet. Only bring in what you will burn in a few weeks, and keep it damp (coal is porus so it will hold moisture and slow down the fire) Rich C.

Bauce, IIRC there is an operating railroad museum not too far from you. I am sure if you go there and ask if they had any scrap spikes (ones that had become twisted or distorted when pulled) they will sell them to you for a donation. Rich C.

Jim, I had one of those for a few years, when I got it it had a half rotted original welded pan (20" 10 ga disk with a 3" 10 ga side wall) which was filled with refractory cement to create a fire pot. Since I have no shop to speak of and was planning on bringing it to events and meets I knew a mud filled pan would not work for me. After searching for a while for 17"+ skillets and only finding rotted or weight in gold ones, a Cabella's opened up along my commute. In the camping department they had the perfect pan, a 20" cast iron skillet for ~$50 (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Outfitter-Series8482-Cast-Iron-Skillets/727438.uts) To install it, I cut off one of the handles and oriented it towards the blower. This allowed me to use the other handle and the loop of frame under the blower for carrying. The airpipe stuck about 1/4" above the surface of the skillet so I made a rectangular tuyere out of 3/4" 304 S. St. (scrap drop from work), after creating an oval pocket 3/8" deep slightly larger then the airpipe I drilled 3/8" through holes on 3/4" diamond spaced pattern (next row of holes is 3/8" to the left and 3/4" in front of the prior row). After drilling I used a 3/4" drill to countersink the backside of the holes till there was almost no flat surface on the under side, to allow the air to flow easier (air hitting a flat surface creates backpressure and waists your energy). If I had a shop of my own I would still have that forge, but replaced it with a smaller lighter forge and sold it to a friend in exchange for some tools. It just too cumbersome when loading and unloading my truck. Hope you enjoy your forge, Rich C. After I wrote this I realized there were 2 versions of the 400 blower, one where the blower is mounted on a tripod and the type I was talking about which was setup as a rivet forge. Here was mine: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/13240-blower-rebuild-advice-needed/ See 2nd & 3rd photos in post 13.

Concerning coal type, if it shears (creates large flat surfaces) and leaves a shiny purple-black surface then that is anthracite, if it tends look dull black-grey with a granular surface for the most part then that would be bituminous. Another way to tell is that bituminous can be broken up in your hands (with a twisting motion) anthracite will not usually break up in your hand. As far as the workbench goes, I would suggest to not use that for cold working unless you want to catch everything on that pegboard as you work. If you and 2-4 of your largest friends can jump safely on the bench then it will be strong enough for cold working metal. Personally I would want it to be solid wood from work surface to floor (think large stump) or steel plate (3/8"-1/2"), maybe with a layer of rock maple/butcher block on top, with welded and cross braced legs. Then again you might be gentler with your bench. Rich C.

Like George I also use surplus military tool bags, the large 19" one for hammers, tongs, files, medium displays & projects... and the 11" one for punches, borox, beeswax tins, small displays & projects... These are the ones I have in Olive Drab. The canvas is thick and strong, will be a while before I wear through it. Also the size helps limit the damage to your shoulder. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/jumbo-military-surplus-style-mechanics-bag.aspx?a=60127 http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/military-surplus-style-mechanics-bag.aspx?a=70900 Rich C.

Been following this one for a bit, and hate to sound Croc Dundee-ish, but those are not Bull Dozer benders, Calf maybe. This is a Bull Dozer Bender, see machine in the front left. Name is on the press arm. http://www.shorpy.com/node/12320?size=_original#caption IIRC those beams are 1"or 1.5"x4" solid steel, and is one of the component of an Arch Bar truck used under early railroad freight cars. Rich C.

On my 400 the bower fan was threaded on, with a jam nut on the outside. I would say start by soaking it with Kroil , Liquid wrench or one of the better penetrants WD-40 usually doesn't cut it. Give it a week or two to soak in, maybe re-apply every 2-3 days. If that doesn't work, apply heat to the fan bushing while slowly rotating the shaft (to evenly heat the whole hub). Try to keep the heat out of the shaft, grab the hub with a wrench (IIRC there were wrench flats) and turn or hold the crank handle and unthread the fan. If you look back through the discussions, there have been a few on rebuilding the blowers. There are a few of us that have done complete pull downs and rebuilds, so feel free to ask questions. Enjoy, Rich C.

Another suggestion, use smaller stones in the work area, maybe pea stone or stone dust. Your feet will thank you after a little time, unless you plan on using metal or plywood clamp-ons for your shoes... Rich C

The reason most people don't like stands with a vise is that the stand spins when you pull on your piece, the solution is to give the stand a base plate wide enough that you can stand on. The base plate only needs to go where your feet will be, so a plate that is 2-3 feet wide and sticks beyond the leg about 2-3 feet is enough, 3/16-1/4 thick. The other option, which doesn't work too well with cement floors but works for me since I forge outside, is to nail a base plate to the bottom of the vise stump, which has 2 or 3 holes to drive spikes into the ground, or if your vise stand is metal, just give it some feet that have 3/4" holes in them. Drive the spikes in at an angle and you can pull hammer and do what ever you want and the vise is going nowhere and the spikes pull easily out of the ground usually. Worst case a few sideways strikes with your tooling hammer (as compared to your good smithing hammer) and they pull out. Personally I would place it either on or next to the post to the left of the forge, you really don't want to have to walk with hot metal to get to a work station, just spin, step and you are there. If you mount it to the post, just make sure you leave enough room to get the clamp nut out of the back frame in case you need to do anything to it, easier then pulling the wedge and manhandle the vise while you work on it. Have fun, Rich C.

David, One arrangement you might want to try is put the Vise against the fence, the forge on the right side (where your anvil is now) and put the anvil on the side towards the camera. Spacing between the three would be such that you only need to rotate your body to get to the next working position. Also this pulls the forge away from the fence, and gives you as much room as possible on all sides of the anvil. This is the arrangement I use whenever I setup, as I don't have a permanent location as of yet for my shop. The more you have to move to get from one workspot to another the less time you have to work on the metal while it is hot and the quicker you wear yourself out. Not sure if I would leave the toolbox out in the VT weather, see if your wife would mind if you to make a tool cart that stores in the garage, or a lockable shed. Can be as simple as a small shelf unit with a door, mounted on a hand truck. Hammers on the bottom shelf standing on their heads, tongs on the next shelf or through rings on the side (old hand sized drawer pulls work nicely) and punches, hardies and such standing in pockets on the top. If you get the type of hand truck that is setup for buckets, you will have some room behind the storage area to stand up materials or a tin box could be added to a flat backed one. One selling point for the wife is the replacement cost of your small tools, should someone jump the fence and walk off with the tool collection. Just some thoughts, Rich C.