arkie

Burying your air hose underground so you can work all around the forge is a neat idea. If your grating burns through pretty fast, you might consider trying to find some kind of cast iron grate. They will last quite a bit longer. I found an 8" drain grate to use in mine.

Very nice video! How about a photo of the finished sculpture? The video only shows portions of it. I'll bet it is beautiful.

When I finish forging for the day, I wipe off the anvil face and horn. Give it a quick spray of WD-40 (doesn't leave an oily residue next time you forge). The WD-40 is good to repel any dew condensation that might form. Then, I have a large Rubbermaid storage box that I turn upside down and put over the anvil and base. When I'm ready to work the next time, a quick wipe of the top with a paper towel and I'm ready to go. The paper towel can be used to help start the fire with the other starter stuff. My smithing stuff is under a tall metal shed, but heavy, blowing rain will still work it's way onto the anvil if not covered. I have a rubber bucket to put over the post vise. The forge is on it's own.

Post your location and someone may have a lead for you to find coal near you, or a blacksmith organization to help you out.

Fascinating! Glad the breed is being preserved in other places besides Texas and Oklahoma (plus some others, of course). Looks like some fantastic grassland for grazing. Being a Native Texan for some 62 years, I take a special interest in the old Longhorns.

Ausfire, wow! That's interesting. Didn't know they had longhorns in Australia! They're a tough breed and can withstand tough country.

Wow, you might have struck gold there (er, ah, coal that is). Hope it works out for you.

Man, Aus, since those look like longhorn cattle if you were in Texas you wouldn't be able to make 'em fast enough! Great job!

I think that you'll find that the 26 ga. stuff will not last long right above the fire. Maybe consider a heavier pipe gauge. My plain old 8" black stove pipe is just about rusted and burnt through after maybe 2 yrs. Go a little heavier and you may only have to do it once.

Can you do a google search for coal mines in your part of the state or maybe across into NV or AZ?

Muddoc, try to locate some members of this group in Oklahoma...http://www.saltforkcraftsmen.org/newsletter.shtm You might be able to get in with a bunch of experienced smiths. Best way to learn.

ARGHHHH!! Disappearing posts are back! Trying this again. Some smiths get together and buy coal in bulk. If there is a mine or coal company within reasonable distance, you could use a trailer, dump truck, etc. to get the coal to a depository convenient to the group. From there, the smiths could purchase and load their respective needs. Cost would have to include coal, mileage and rental costs if a rental trailer was used. Gotta be cheaper than $25 to $50 per 50# bag plus shipping. We get our coal using a trailer capable of carrying 3 tons. Ours is about 160 miles away. I think, from reading their newsletter, that the Saltfork group in Oklahoma may stockpile theirs for members in two or three locations. The members then purchase and load out their own. Maybe there is a Saltfork member on IFI who could elaborate on that.

I ran out of coal once and decided to try hardwood lump charcoal. Fire fleas nearly ate me alive. No more charcoal for me. Now, I just stockpile coal so I don't get into that mess again. Some folks use charcoal and love it...just not my cup 'o tea.

For the past few years, I've been trying to get by with an 8" flue pipe and honestly, it doesn't draw worth a cr*p! Just finished making a new hood and going with 12" pipe this time. Save some time and frustration and go with 12".

Oh, Lordy!!!!!!!!!!! The puns have started!!!! Where's Frosty???? You're late to the party!

Good one!! I still have tears running down my leg from laughing at that one.

Exo, try using a basket twist, or onion twist as it's sometimes called, for your hammer handle. Make it the length and diameter best for you. Also, use 9 rods instead of 4 for more metal in your twist. You can make the twist so that it's easy to pick up with gloves.

If you can gain access to some farmers in your area, maybe drop in for a visit, explain you are a relatively new blacksmith and are looking for some scrap. They always have a pretty good scrap pile around. Take a couple of bottle openers, a plant hanger,... maybe something useful you can forge up to give in appreciation for their time. You might strike gold. If you live in a city, it still may be worth a road trip out in the country on a nice day to explore for some farm scrap. For one old farmer near me, it's more of a hassle and lots of trouble for him to round up his scrap and haul it to town to sell. You might be able to lighten a farmer's load of a problem.

Frosty, in the video you could see the leak actually blowing the water away from the hole. Since only a water hose was used and not any soap there were no bubbles. The hose method ede used is not a good way. As we have both said, use soapy water. The way that tank was leaking in the video it might even blow the bubbles away!

I always test ANY propane tank myself, or ANY gas cylinder for that matter, not trusting any other testing (the old saying "trust but verify"). Not a hydro test, but the soap bubble test is better than nothing. You can find some really small leaks that way. If you still have any sort of proof of purchase, I'd take it back to UHaul and get rid of it, money back. That's an obvious weld defect.

The residual in a coal fire consists mainly of both clinker and ash. The residual ash + water = lye= caustic compound (high pH). The clinker is usually removed and not a problem anyway (it's mostly silicates and other impurities bound together).

Steve, you got a very good deal on that HB. Looks to be in fine shape. I use one similar, a 170# HB and love forging on it. Just the right size.

Lots of things going on in a coal fire! Sometimes hard to keep it all straight.

Try to find a blacksmith organization in your area. Most likely they have coal available for members at a cheaper cost than $20 for a 50# bag.

Water and ashes create lye, which is very caustic (alkaline), not acidic. Still corrodes, however. Of course, rust is also formed which will eventually damage the forge.