arkie

You could make the forge from the SS (sheet or plate, I assume) with a frame of some sort for the table to rest in or on. The bed of the forge doesn't get as hot as the firepot or what's above it, your hood, if you make one. My forge has a 1/4" thick (6mm) mild steel plate for the table and cast iron fire pot (brake drum). It has no burned spots. I don't see toxicity a problem for the bed of your forge, since some cooking utensils will probably be hotter than your forge bed. You don't need to coat anything. A firepot is usually cast iron or thick steel (say, 1/2" or thicker). SS only 5mm thick would not be thick enough and would burn through faster than a cast iron or thick steel one.

You might want to consider using oil on the screw rather than grease. The grease will more readily accumulate scale and crud, making the screw harder to turn and can add some wear to it. It's not like a piece of moving machinery, so not as much lube is necessary as most think.

NIce looking forge build. You're really gonna like those sideboards!

To put my fire on hold, say when taking a lunch break, I just pile just a very little green coal on top, turn the blower off and leave the ash dump wide open. That creates a slight updraft that keeps the coke burning on "idle" with a faint glow. When I turn the air back on, the fire comes back quickly.

Welcome to IFI. You are going to really enjoy smithing, and...thank you for your service.

Brian, try both a water and oil quench...see which works best.

CAE, you're on the right track. Some tongs can be complicated to make, so it is beneficial to practice some of the forgings before using up your "good" steel. Practice on making the setdowns, boss, jaws, etc. and when you feel comfortable with your work, then apply it to your good steel.

The pedal you added to the ring is a really good touch. So many hammers have only a ring and can be hard to control sometimes. Bet it gives you more control.

Carver, it's not a matter of trust. It's a matter of safety, responsibility and liability. If the minor is somehow involved in an accident, the responsible adult needs to be present. We don't allow unattended minors under any circumstances. If the adult leaves the meeting, they need to take the youngster with them or have him/her stay away from any blacksmithing activities with another responsible adult present to represent the parent/guardian.

In our group, anyone under 18 y.o. must have an accompanying adult (over 18) attend with him/her. No minimum age limit to my knowledge. If they can hold a hammer, let 'em at it!!!

On a coating like a hinge, the zinc may be gone in 2 to 3 hours, longer if the zinc is thick. Watch the bubbles and shift the location of the item so all surfaces get exposed. When the bubbles stop pick out the pieces and neutralize the vinegar to stop any flash rusting. Buff with a wire brush. You can't overdo it. I have left pieces of hot galvanized pipe and fittings in the vinegar for a couple of days.

Soak the zinc plated stuff in vinegar. Cleans it off safely.

I find that a lot of folks like to try out their welding skills on a "T" pipe arrangement. Really hard to change anything. If one simply uses black threaded pipe on the "T's" and bolts on the firepot (if any are needed...some are heavy enough that weight alone holds them in place), then problems with plumbing can easily be corrected. To aid in clearing out the down-pipe and ash dump, just make a long, pointed rod about 1/4" diameter and poke it through your tuyere. Some pots with the cylinder clinker breaker might not permit that.

I think Thomas addressed the welding issue very well. As a word of caution, I doubt that a local welder would have the experience welding and heat treating an anvil. (we posted at the same time...)

If you are in the St. Louis, MO area (title of thread?), check out BAM. They have monthly meetings and may have some in your area. That way you get connected and open many doors to learning.

According to their newsletter, saltfork only sells to members. Might be a good opportunity to join up!

Check out youtube videos by Gary Huston and Chandler Dickinson.

Wow! If you're getting wrought iron in good shape for 20 cents/pound, it may be cheaper to drive to NM and buy it!!!

All those leaves, hooks, bottle openers will hone your skills for more advanced work....you gotta walk before you can run.... Hang in there!!

jerryt, great anvil. Hope you are able to get it. Hay Budden's are wonderful anvils. As for disappearing posts...the norm these days on the forum. PM,s disappear too.

Wow, you did well. Great looking anvil. Any name or iD marks on it?

jerryt, Look at the front foot (under the horn). You may be able to make out a stamped serial number. Looks like a HB to me too.

If it seems to be scale, wire brush it hard and briskly while red hot or hotter. Scale is harder to remove when cool.

Just show up. You'll have a ball. I wish I were close enough to attend the meeting.

PM sent. Replies aren't working for me today, and only one out of three PM's are...... (wow, this one worked...)