L Smith

I forgot to add. If you test the face you will have a divot to polish out! Have the test done on the circumference near the face then it wont be a problem.

Any local manufacturing type machine shop should have a hardness tester even if they only do aluminum. Only takes about five minutes to test. Ask for the shop foreman. If it does not meet your requirements reheat and quench as stated above.

I think it is all part of living in Texas or the south! No escape in the spring or summer, at least here in N. Texas. Orient the shop for north south breeze.

You will soon tire from constantly squirting oil while trying to work. Bushings are the right choice for this, but they shouldn't be full length. Two bushes 1/4 the length of your bore would be enough. One on each end with a grease groove .063 wide by half the wall thickness would work for better alignment and lubrication. I did not see a provision for lube. A grease port between the bushings would work . The dead space between two bushings gives a trash trap to keep the rods from being scored in use. If for some reason the bushings need to be removed put an identifying scratch or center punch the bush end and the block. Now they can be replaced back in the same location. Just my take from working with bushings for over twenty years.

Man Crawler you couldn't BUY a better invitation! Take Steve up on it you will have fun.

My concern when I had acid in the shop ,was children and ignorant adults I found not much difference between the two groups.

Pulled my compressor out of its cubby hole and drained the north Texas humidity out. How about you?

My PW has an anchor stamped on the left front foot also.

Pristine face

Yes I would reshape those into tongs Just don't water quench but let them air cool until tomorrow.

Did it once with cans. Stink you will not believe And the end product is full of porosity. Never again for me but just had to try.

I agree with glen on a lot of this information. ( and all the above posters) My last place was a loafing shed. I loved it for what it was worth out of the rain. I nailed up weathered boards to break the pattern (theft) of my Lincoln trailer mounted 200 welder from view. The dirt floor and interior poles served me well. BUT if you want a shop with elect and water and everything else Plan Ahead. Not worth the headache of trying to fix it later. Plan it for your location and future growth. Money ahead in the long run!

I use 90 weight differential lube but any grease would work.

I agree with smoothbore! No time like the present!! New problems (children or pup dogs) always arise.

Listen to real time reason Be careful of your joints. I am 70 yrs old and suffer worn out Knees. The person I worked for didn't care about worn joints.Only money. We tried to get better conditions for years to no avail. When a company goes under there is no recourse. if you do damage to yourself with your hobbby who is left to blame or pay for it?

The dangers noted above are why i recommend emery cloth by hand. You can't get hurt and you can immediatly see your progress and finish.

Don't over think your lining. I have an old forge I bought from an old lady who told me her husband got it from sears. it is lined with something cement like and has lasted for decades. I have owned it for probably 34 years. I have no idea how old the lining really is -- it just holds up! The drawing you furnished looks good just don't make it too deep. Mine is fairly flat except for the nest. That part is about 3--4 inches deep just enough to hold a good fire.

Yea coke tends to get lighter in weight as it burns. Try putting more coal or coal with it I bought 500# of coke once about the size of potatoes coulden't believe how light individual peices were!

What about crocus or emery cloth it can be torn into long thin strips and use it like buffing your shoes

Zink chromate primer is what is used in aircraft for this problem. However if the AL sticks in the square hole but not to the hardy there shouldn't be a problem. May need to file the inside of the AL some to make a better slip fit.

Are the screw parts braziable ?

Well I would like to use some of Mr. Yellens elements in the future but they would never be seen where his work resides!

My large coal forge came from an old farm. The elderly lady that sold it to me said her husband ordered it from sears. My guess it measures 30-36 inches across and is filled maybe 6 inches deep with cement of some sort. One leg of the four is a little weak but has not buckled yet. It is heavy to move around so I watch that leg. Have no idea on its age since I have not found it listed in any sears catalogue yet. Right now I keep it buried in storage until we can move. My point is "sometimes we overthink our builds" to the sublime. Does anyone have a direction to find this forge in a sears catalogue?

Nice job good looking vise!

They are also used to dissasemble heavy equipment. I used mine for removing parts on landing gears. Eventualy they begin to chip and fray. The plus side of their use "no hammer dings" on large equipment. The replacement heads are expensive. Like said in a previous post pre deadblow.