24 years ago I got married. My wife dug out those pounds of change I had stashed. "Start rolling coins we do have money for a honeymoon".
Years before that I bought an old forge and blower with change from an old lady. Her comment was "won't run out of laundry money now".
Time, I need time away from getting this house ready to sell. A building with electricity would be nice. But without "time" looking over my shoulder nagging.
Have you seen Storm crows' setup under axes, hawks, spears page 4 titled "nose to the grindstone, well hawks to the belt" (01 dec 2013). His setup looks very good for heat treating. I have never met him but my guess he would talk your ears off.
I always used a harbor freight heat gun on the thinnest portion of a bearing or casting and then used kroil. The thinnest area expands easily allowing the penetrant in.
I have a 30" maybe 36" round cement lined forge with a hand cranked blower (in storage). That I have heated and straightened round hay bail stickers. Just have to pile up more coal. Bought it off an old farm lady. Her husband bought it from sears decades ago. I think you may be going to deep. My .02 worth.
Unfortunately I will agree with John (post 30) I have an airframe/power plant license and some work within the guide lines but many do not. A certificate can be an accomplishment or a step to betterment of craft.
Wife, dog, and I went to Phoenix last week and I came home with 50# of coke and Mark Asperry's volume III from Pieh tool in Camp Verde. Very nice people and store. Still drooling.
This is how I got my first job The company owner (an inventor) had me handle an air bearing then told me to come back in a week. He looked over the air bearing and said YOU ARE HIRED your fingers don't stain metal. It has always surprised me how many people stain metal.
I have used them and they do work. It is some type of phosphoric acid if my memory is correct. They take paint very well. One of the best ones I have used came from England. Look for antique auto restoration.
If measured correctly as pushed hard to one side clamped top and bottom then the gap measured top and bottom. 1/16 = 1/32 or .032" per side. I have no mechanical hammer experience. So how close is close enough will be for experienced people to answer. The length of your tubing will also be a factor.
Try my town.I recently looked up our address on Google and saw a change I made in the side yard a month ago. They drive down the alleys here with the roof top cameras looking in the back yards. Interesting what is in the yards down the alley. My neighbor across the alley got a notice from the city the week he moved in. The complaint was a tree limb touched the roof of the trash truck. Google makes it easy for code enforcement they don't have to leave the office!
Putting penetrating oil on the screw and heating the area around the screw for expansion always worked for me. The tiny bubbles that come up thru the oil is not the oil boiling but trapped air leaving from the heat expansion.