Dodge

I'm amused (probably more-so than others) that you do, in fact consider it an upgrade :D

Nice shape. It will look good when you finish the sanding and polishing. :)

Maker, Ray Davis!! He still around??

a quick google search yielded: This

iirc, 400ci would be too large to get welding heat from a 3/4" burner. I believe 350 would be the largest and even then, I think it would require the higher end of fuel consumption, imho

Maybe its optics but the mig tip looks a bit crooked. Correct me, anyone, if I am wrong but you get a much more uniform flame if you have the tip as closely aligned to the pipe centerline as possible. Ron Reil, iirc, speaks of pumping water down the gas tube when setting up to insure the gas flow is straight as possible. My understanding is that a crooked gas tip causes a fuel starved condition on one side of the pipe and a fuel rich condition on the other, never really mixing very well thus resulting in an erratic flame. Scott

Never allow hand, fingers, nose, any other body part to share same space-time continuum as your hammer or hot steel. Hammer and steel always win

Thank you Scott

Says "SOLD". Did you buy? 3/4" x 7/8" hardy? Rectangle?? Hmmmm ;) Scott

OK, I'll bite. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the reason??

My bad. Yes I know plumbers torches and such technically have smaller tubes albeit the typical propane torch has a 1/2" or so diam nozzle with several small orifices to produce tiny individual flames.This is how it is dealing with the reduction in tube size to molecule size. I guess I should have clarified however I was really specifically wondering about home made burners that run using propane. How small of a propane burner can be made using similar parts as is used in a typical "hardware store" supplied burner. i.e "T" style, "Reil" style, "side-arm" etc. Not a model but actually holding a good neutral flame. Side note: What is the smallest Ward Tee anyway? Regular for that matter... :mellow: Ok, I'll accept a lean burning flame ;) (Rich flame would be too easy. Its adding that bit of air where it gets tricky) Scott

I have seen mention of smaller-than-3/4" burners a few times now and when I have some spare time, want to bench race a couple ideas. The question I have, however is just how small can you go and actually have a workable flame i.e. how small can you go with the naturally aspirated theory before the tube size to molecule size begins to break down. I see it a lot on miniature water scenes especially in old movies b4 cgi came along. A miniature battle ship just doesn't float the same way a full sized one does due to the size of the model to the size of water molecules. I guess the best term would be viscosity(?) How viscous can the air fuel mix; how close can those molecules be jammed together in a tube? Anybody build a 3/8" burner with a proper albeit tiny three part flame? 1/4"??? Points to ponder Scott

Yeah I think you may be on the right track. Your second pic; the high pressure one, is clearly burning rich. Use a smaller diam gas supply tube or a bigger bell. That seems pretty small anyway. Reil type burners use a 1.5" reducer on 3/4" pipe. You would probably see marked increase in performance by going to a 2" bell or even look at Frosty's T design (what I use). Highly tune-able, easy to make. Tube length is another concern. 8.5 or 9:1 seems to be a good ratio. e.g.1" pipe wants to be 8.5 - 9 inches long for a good air fuel mix without compromising good flow due to friction in too long a pipe Edit: This post relates to the op burners You were posting as I was typing. I believe you will still only need 2. One 3/4" burner will heat 300 - 350 cubic inches. Welding temp at the lower end. You having 720 cubic inches should have no problem welding with two 1" burners

William, Very cool fixture, indeed. I especially like the coin (as well as other odd shapes) holding capabilities!

Another vote for preserving history. Cut it up and the history becomes scrap. Old scrap but scrap just the same. 2¢ Scott

You can magnetize a piece of steel by winding a piece of insulated wire around it in a coil and touching both ends of the wire to both terminals of a battery. I'd avoid a car battery because the result is pretty dynamic. After all you have created an electric coil and iirc, when I did it with a screwdriver and a "D" cell it of course sparked but also blew the insulation off the wire and got hot real fast. (Wear gloves) But the screwdriver did have some magnetism; at least enough to pick up and hold a screw... I'm sure a real electrician will come along and tell why it works. And maybe how to do it safely :ph34r: Scott

Yep; did the math. 42 is correct :ph34r:

I love this place!! :D

You can be proud of that for sure. Beautiful!

I agree with the cameras. As many as you can afford/justify. I definitely wouldn't offer any bait. Certainly not an unchained anvil. Your video may just be the last image you see of it. OTOH, you could have some very good images to give LEO of the crime. I also second Thomas' suggested marking of your anvil.

GREAT reference, Tom! I haven't thought of/seen that sketch in years, but now recall I laughed with tears the first time. BTW, thank you for all of the years of wisdom you have offered. Scott (*...runs off to search YouTube for "Argument" sketch*) :ph34r:

Another way those screws could be formed is by grinding. Done in a lathe or turning jig, it would be similar to cutting a coarse thread only instead of a cutting tool, a grinder would be mounted to grind the spiral.

I second the casting observations...

Cao, that is a great forging station you got built there. Looks very functional indeed! Scott

I don't believe Joel was asking if you had answers to HIS questions. I think he was asking if you have been asked questions YOU could not answer. At least that is the way I read it. Anyway, I get those all the time :D If anyone says they never get a question they can't answer, I say they just ain't bein' honest to themselves ;) Scott