Max Mulholland - Tetnum

forget makeing a flat belt just go and get some spare bike chain and a chain tool you can make the belt any size ya want and a little slack is not bad my rachet forge runs on a bike chain and works great

nice work and the pics are fine

i have used the two in a mix and you will have to decide what mix works best % wise and i second dons responce

if ya put the wrong stel in water it will shatter say h13 or A2 they will tipicaly shater like a glass firecracker its not a good thing and it can punch a hole through a plastic 5gallon bucket no problem be careful and use the right quenchant with the right steel

ya that will work well heres a sorta video of my first forge YouTube - forge tour

go with what you think is best if you are working large peices say a HUGE anvil a bathtub could work well personaly i am not makeing anvils or huge archetural peices so i go with a modifyied washtub forge if you want to make a forge out of it ok but is i infer from your second post you want to make a bigger forge. the washtub forge is big and can be restricted to use less fuel when it is not needed the ramrod idea it a amasing idea and will make changeing the fire size relitively easy

drill out the rivet or cut it off this will make re working them easer they are tipicaly a plain carbon steel like 1065 to 1095 depending on who made themnewer ones can be made of exotics

i see no need to mess with that face is cleaner than my anvil with fewer pits and chunks missing and you can still flatten out a peice and it gives charicter to your work if you want to fix it its your anvil do what you want but in my opinion its not worth the hassle

ok my current problem is because of UPS being slow 2day air mail takes 4 days so i finaly have the parts today ordered them last friday so the twere works fine and the plywood blower works but i need a way to mount the blower to the bottom of the rachet forge in-line with the flywheel sturdly and so it dose not get above 200F to keep the epoxy holding i will post pics soon

yep your correct a fireset for a fireplace

when you get back out to the smithy make a fireset useing what ever you have at your disposal lets see what new things popup imagnation and creativity are greatly encuuraged happy hammering

ok it is likely that the only way to stop them is to pay up then get them for fraud but before someone bites the bullet we need to get a detailed description of the course from them so we know when they have failed to upohold their end of the contract may i recomend that we not use bladesmithing as the bait course because they probly know that we are out to stop them with their bladesmithing gimmick if i have this right the PSU is one groop so pick any other program have one person send an email asking for info with well defined questions and they are not sa likely to catch that we are trying the same thing again with a diffrent course

thats the first time i have seen a low layer knife look so good what steels were used truly amasing

those are really good

i have a HF welders apron i find it awkward and increadibily hot in the summer but when its cold its a jacket that wont just melt

ditto to whats been said thanks for your service heare is a link that i think will help answer your question Twin Oaks Forge

i hope you get it finnished soon

the reasoning for the mixing is that feric-cloride is expensive and there is no need to use it and its cheaper to use mixes and make a diffrent mix depending on what kind of etch you want that time

put thr metal in the center of the fire if you have a bottom draft and just above and infront if thr tweer in a side draft

if all else fails or ya cant find Acraglass use 5 minite epoxy it will work fine as long as youre not grinding on the tang too much

i have to agree with this one it is a disgrace all of the 300+ anvils have a county name mig welded across the makers mark and have a number mig welded across the face or horn dont go and see it it is not worth your time

i like welded because they wear well but a little faster than cast they are not fragle and they wont often shatter when dropped or when watter is involved i think they are about the same in cost unless you make it your self from a scrap pile

i dont really like the choises above i use PCB etchent (muritic acid and feric cloride) 40% with vinigar 60%

is upside down but i would buy it if i could afford to ship it to the US

home depot can order it in for you from the HQ but it takes some conversation and persistance on your part to make them check the computer scence it is not a normal product in black iron