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I Forge Iron

Max Mulholland - Tetnum

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Everything posted by Max Mulholland - Tetnum

  1. really nice work i like it alot i guess this means youre back to forgeing or did i miss something quite a while ago?
  2. if they are rusted and it concerns ya just wet forge it that will blast the scale and other stuff off in the first heat
  3. careful if it gets to hot it will likely turn it to a iron sand and go every ware
  4. jb weld will work but stablize the antler first with super gluejustt keep putting it in untill it wont take any more
  5. first be carefull alot of it is galvnized or coated with something that will hurt you and look around mineral mines and scrap yards
  6. when youre done with the process base the chemicals to finish eith let it be bees wax or grt it to about 450 ish range in a oven and drop it into motor oil it will seal it for more than a year
  7. just use it the resulting clinker is almoast non exsistant and most will stay on untill yhou hit it
  8. some questions to help us better answer your question. is the metal sparking when you pull it out? are you useing a hammer and anvil and forgeing? if you are useing a forge whare in the fire are you putting the steel? is there any othe info you have about what you were doing?
  9. i think for the price of what i am looking at and with a groop order being put together by BAM i will probly buy a chile forge tobasco
  10. i would refrain from a handheld grinder and just wire wheel/brush paint the sides not the horn or face and get to work the pits only add charicter to the peice and show that it is hand made
  11. frosty a fresh demographic is useful and allows for a beter answer to questions well it helps me atleast
  12. is it cheaper to buy a gas forge or make one i have noticed with a lot of things that it is chaeper to buy the thing rather than make one
  13. i already got an aso but i am still thinking about it and it is local
  14. i tend to make the taper about 4" long you can trim to size later and then file it sharp but bend the taper 90 degrees about 1/2" from the start andcoil it in a tight coil with about 1/4" hole in the center once you have the tight coil (like a compressde coil spring) get it hot and pull it out to form the cork screw sharpen the end with a file and youre done
  15. whare is that deal 12$ for 150 lbs you have d=to be kidding i pay 9 for fifty which is cheap i gotta get the whare ever it is next time i am there ohio that is
  16. if hss gets to hot it lookis like it just turned into a powder of iron
  17. are you going to melt it , use it in the structure ,or something else MAKE SHURE YOU KNOW IT IS ALUMINUM MAGNISUEM FIRES ARE BAD REALY REALLY BAD my other concern is zinc and other metals of the same type are all non magnetic and are graysilver in appearence so be careful if in doubt at least ask or just leave it
  18. the best lube for blowers from my experiance is white lithum grease dont spray it on when the forge is running
  19. you could use a bullet tweer wich will rase the fire a few inches you can put more air in wich will have the same effect but use more coal or you can use charcoal wich needs a deeper firepot
  20. it sounds simmlar to mine that has one flywheel alined with the blower and runs off a belt drive mine came seized up with no blower or fire pot so i paid too much at $75 but in your case try and get it down to $75 but i would be fine paying around $120 if its working with few repairs needed + some oil
  21. i find it more efficant to draw things out over the edge of the anvil and the horn is tipicay softer than the face so it can be mared easly on most anvils
  22. theres no sprocket just some sport tape (canvas tape) to provide some frictionand some slack is no problem
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