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Ricko13

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Everything posted by Ricko13

  1. As per a request from Mikey, here's a list of item to look for when building your own forge for us Canadians. Sometimes getting items will still require a bit of "google-fu", but there's a lot of good resources on other forums that hold key pieces of information Here's a quick list of things I went through, and hope it helps you: Steel piping (for the burners) was oddly very hard to find for me in my area, but thankfully Home Hardware lets you order online and deliver to a store near you. I even ordered the mig tips etc from there, it's conviniant - www.homehardware.ca Kaowool - there's two sources on the east coast area that we could use - https://tuckerspotteryeshop.com/ or http://sial-canada.com/en/produitsDetails.php?nProductId=4530 - they both deliver. I used Tucker and got it under 2 days. The fittings to connect everything, the best is to find a local propane supplier / expert (I used Propane Outaouais, very helpful people, but they are local to me). Because we are in Canada, it's regulation to keep the tanks OUTSIDE, so they helped me out with getting long hoses etc. Heres information on that - http://propane.ca/safety-regulation/ - and by province: http://propane.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CPA_Fact-Sheet_Regulatory-Authorities-Having-Jurisdiction_August-2016.pdf The rigidizer, I did a bit of research and found some Hydrophilic (NOT HYDROPHOBIC) Fumed Silica on ebay from the UK for very cheap (it's VERY light, you should pay almost no shipping). I will need to understand a bit more how to mix it all up, but I have this wonderful forum to help me. For the refracting cement and ITC stuff - I just went with Wayne Coe - very helpful guy and the price was decent - http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html As for fire bricks, Reno Depot, Home Depot, Rona... they all have it... they are about 6$ and will work for doors (they won't last too long though, but it's a good start).
  2. Sure thing @Mikey98118, I had thought of doing a sort of Bill of Material that folks can use to look at supplies in their area... but time is hard to find.
  3. Dom, I was in your exact shoes for a while, fretting (nice choice of word Frosty, I'm using it) over every little detail of the forges on sale versus making one. It got so bad I had spreadsheets of cost / data / etc and driving myself silly, even before going with propane I was doing the same analysis with going with Natural Gas (which in the end is a pain I'm glad I avoided for now). I was lucky and got a good deal on a very small forge that helped me get my feet wet in understanding how they work. I have since then ordered all the pieces to make an even better one (just received the Kaowool this afternoon, and some fumed silica from the UK a day ago, all at decent prices). Next is just to find a propane tank and merge it to two Frosty burners I'll be making (thanks Frosty). Here's a quick list of things I went through, and hope it helps you: Steel piping (for the burners) was oddly very hard to find for me in my area, but thankfully Home Hardware lets you order online and deliver to a store near you. I even ordered the mig tips etc from there, it's conviniant - www.homehardware.ca Kaowool - there's two sources in our area that you could use - https://tuckerspotteryeshop.com/ or http://sial-canada.com/en/produitsDetails.php?nProductId=4530 - they both deliver. I used Tucker and got it under 2 days. The fittings to connect everything, the best is to find a local propane supplier / expert (I used Propane Outaouais, very helpful people, but they are local to me). Because we are in Canada, it's regulation to keep the tanks OUTSIDE, so they helped me out with getting long hoses etc. Heres information on that - http://propane.ca/safety-regulation/ - and by province: http://propane.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/CPA_Fact-Sheet_Regulatory-Authorities-Having-Jurisdiction_August-2016.pdf The rigidizer, I did a bit of research and found some Hydrophilic (NOT HYDROPHOBIC) Fumed Silica on ebay from the UK for very cheap (it's VERY light, you should pay almost no shipping). I will need to understand a bit more how to mix it all up, but I have this wonderful forum to help me. For the refracting cement and ITC stuff - I just went with Wayne Coe - very helpful guy and the price was decent - http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html As for fire bricks, Reno Depot, Home Depot, Rona... they all have it... they are about 6$ and will work for doors (they won't last too long though, but it's a good start). If I was to estimate how much I spent so far (and I was not really DEAL hunting here), I would say I'm in about $300 - $400. So a few extra hundred for a premade? That's really the choice you have to make, spend a few extra hundred to get something that may work for you, or spend a few less and make whatever you want and learn a great deal in the process. Again, the offer is on the table if you need any local help. Cheers, -R
  4. Hey Dom, Can you keep me posted on the cost with delivery to Quebec? I'd be curious to see, since that looks like a very decent price for a forge. My one burner forge needs a big brother... Cheers, -R
  5. Hi Dom, I too was looking at buying a forge a while back and was taken back by the shipping costs. Luckily I found a local guy that sold me his. Now that being said, I have starting to get the stuff required to build a slightly bigger one, if you need a hand for sourcing stuff, let me know. So far the best bet is to talk to Wayne (http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Forge_Supplies.html) to get some idea of the lining components. I just ordered some stuff from him and the price was decent even with shipping to Canada. I live in Quebec (but I mark Ottawa since people know that town), so if you aren't too far, let me know and I would be more than happy to lend a hand. -R
  6. Good afternoon Fisher experts. Trying to get a date on this wee-anvil which I acquired over the weekend... I looked on all the legs, and all I could find is on the second picture. Thanks!
  7. Hello folks, Just so happens I got a forge with a very similar burner today. Upon looking at it closely I found one of the fittings was double threaded and crooked... so I'll be replacing that. Until then I won't light it up, but I'll pay attention to this thread to see if you get any progress EnglishDave. Cheers, -R
  8. Maybe it's to let the flatter find the best position when getting hit (self-aligning?) so as to not be affected by the improper angle to which it's held? Just an idea.... Nice video though! Thanks for sharing!
  9. I am. I'm in quebec.. next to Ottawa.. so not far for me.
  10. Nice tongs! Can you share where the tutorial can be found? I did a quick search of the forum but only found this post... my bad... found it http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/11066-hammer-making-tongs/?hl=tongs
  11. Here are those same links but for desktops (I have had this issue before when trying to share links from my ipad) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBTKcSPKnaw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8d5w7zxJJWs Thanks to both of you Daniel and Andy for sharing these videos! Learning a lot here! Cheers
  12. Great stuff! The end product was amazing. Thanks for sharing!
  13. http://kbctools.com/usa/Navigation/NavPDF.cfm?PDFPage=714 whole page just of thread pitch gauges.
  14. I have access to a nifty piece of software that calculates threads with no issues. If you give me some dimensions, i can find a standard for it. Really important to know the major diameter an pitch (thread per inch). And if you can measure the minor, that will also help a great deal (major dia - (2x thread height)=minor) to determine if it is a stub or general acme. Our shop is making quite a few internal acme threads right now if ever you need something done, PM me.
  15. What about in Canada? I was able get two 70lbs bags from a local store for 62.99$ a bag, anybody got other contacts that dont cost an arm and a leg in shipping in East Ontario?
  16. When I started as an inspector in a machine shop, the first thing mu boss at the time told me to do was read through the thread section of the mschinist handbook. The next thing he told me to do was go through a small bin of nuts and bolts and sort them using only a dial caliper. You can figure out pretty quick threads by measuring the Major diameter (over the top of the threads) and figuring out the Thread per Inch. Thread pitch gauge was also very useful to sort through metric and unified that measured close. Nuts are a bit harder, just need a few bolts to help you.
  17. I was down there just two weekends ago! If I had known I would of stopped by :) I'll keep it in mind next time I'm around there.
  18. That anvil will get better as soon as you put hot steel to it... no joke! A little work with some WD40 and brush wheel will get it better for sure... wear eye protection!
  19. Yves, looks like a mighty nice anvil to start with! Where about's are you in Quebec? Quebec city itself? I'm in Gatineau and have been traveling the province for tools since October... Sorry to semi-hijack the thread!
  20. Just received my very own Brian Brazeal hammer today... Can't wait to try it out! (It was a comprimised my wife would let me do until i can go take a class with him). I will post my opinion on it when I get a good try at it. I tried a few hammers in my short time in the trade (french, engineer, german, etc). Excited to see the difference :)
  21. I don't "live" in Ontario.. but work there... Nice to see some more people close by showing up here. Welcome to IFI :)
  22. Space shuttle what now? Everybody else, thanks for the info! I'll google with that in mind and maybe find the source, i have an idea of the region it came from...
  23. Ya, I kinda made the nose even longer then that, I had to cut it off :P Thanks for the tip! And keep those videos coming, liking each one!
  24. Hoping the masses of this site can ID this thing? Not sure what it's for nor does my father... We are curious to find out.
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