HWooldridge

Do a search on this website for "Super Quench". Brine will harden most A36 pretty well, (it is is close to Robb Gunter' original lye/water/surfactant mix, which is no longer recommended due to the dangers of handling and use). In fact, I replace broken post vise springs with A36 versions by hardening in brine but no temper - makes great springs that don't break. A36 is about 30 points of carbon so it's at the lower level of common spring steels.

I've made a couple of forges from wood and they work fine but you really need a thick layer of clay (3" min) from any flammable surface. It also works well to use a piece of steel plate around the fire pot and then construct the rest of the forge bed, body and legs with wood.

Mark, How was the big hammer demo? I was busy in the shop so couldn't make it but George's hammers are pretty impressive. Hollis

I am reading and I care (big hug...) I think you might want to build a large skeleton frame and then bolt that to the wall or ceiling. In other words, envision the skeleton holding the whole thing and that it theoretically could stand alone assuming it could remain upright on impact. Since that would make it unbearably heavy, make it out of square tubing (50mm?) or pipe with tabs welded on for the bolts - then fasten to the building structure.

Don't sell it too cheaply because you are performing a craft that not everyone can do. If your customers doubt that, then they should shop around some more. I am a part time smith and charge $60/hr plus materials - for the past three years, I have had more work than I can handle and have no-quoted some projects simply because I need a little downtime (70 hours a week gets old after a while, even if you enjoy it like I do). A buddy of mine suggested that I start charging $75 but I don't think it would change the overall volume. My basic philosophy is that the work is hard and it takes a skilled hand and creative mind. Cheap or bad-paying customers are just not worth it - life is too short, especially when you consider there are also a lot of very good clients in the marketplace. Of course, if it's just a hobby, charge whatever you want.

A Fisher is normally pretty hard on the face so something unusual was done to that anvil (or it went through a fire at some point in its life). To answer your original question, I'd say above 50 Rc should be usable in most any situation but as Mike said, hammer control is more important.

It's better to master stick first. MIG has its place but stick is very useful - especially if you do any repair work. What rods and sizes, heat range, etc. are you using? Maybe we can help you with technique or settings. I learned with 6011 and am glad that I did as 6013 is often recommended for beginners and many people have trouble with slag inclusions. You might want to try 7014 as you can actually lay it down and burn a very nice bead without holding an arc.

Nitric is used to passivate stainless. Google on "passivation of stainless steel" and you'll get all the info you need.

That one is in relatively good and complete shape compared to some I've seen. I'd definitely pay $75 for one in similar condition.

My heavy bag hangs from a steel roof in a barn and still shakes the building. The speed bag is screwed to 2x4's on a wall in my shop and it makes noise and shakes the siding. I just don't think you can get away from it except maybe in a completely concrete structure. Most boxing gyms are industrial buildings and the bags are set up for hard regular use.

6" will make a nice size if bent over a 1-1/4" pin.

Speed bag or heavy bag? In either case, a simple plate and bracket arrangement will probably work but the size will determine the stock size and attachment points. You should also plan to go into a beam or stud - plaster or gypsum board won't work.

Cast iron is a much cheaper way to make the pot than from fabricated steel so that is likely why it originated in the first place as a preferred manufacturing method. I have had both fabbed steel and cast iron pots but cannot see much difference other than clinker does not seem to stick to cast quite so readily as steel - although that may simply be my perception.

I have 3 post vises in the shop. One is at chest height for close filing, one at elbow height for general work and one at anvil height. It is a full length leg vise buried in the soil along with the mounting post and allows a full hammer swing. I think elbow height might be the most flexible but as others stated, each position has strengths depending on the work.

Nice forge - I have a very similar one. Use as it sits if you like; there is a clay lining recipe elsewhere on this site if you decide to add that. You might also check out Balcones Forge if you haven't already done so. It's our regional chapter of smiths. Balcones Forge

My wife's mom used to live in Las Cruces and we went to Mesilla a few times to do the tourist stuff - I never realized there was still a blacksmith shop there.

We have a local material yard named Keller's (sand, topsoil, etc.) who also sells firebrick and fireclay. It probably pays to shop around a bit.

The old cathedral window anvils from Europe are pretty rare as are the really old stake anvils that predate the London pattern. The Fisher exhibits at the Centennial and various World Fair's they participated in had many large ones - 400, 500, 650, etc. up to the monsters. IIRC, I saw a pic from the Chicago Word's Fair where they had about 15-20 anvils set up at the exhibit. I would love to have any one of them...

Matt, Sorry, I've been out of pocket for a few days. I also just picked up your voice mail so feel free to call again if this note doesn't answer your questions. Everything Ed said is pretty much spot on but I'll add a little bit. I'll preface by saying that I have a #4 but that #7 is pretty sexy... A. I separated anvil, sow block and frame when I moved my hammer but I don't think there is a right or wrong way. Just make sure you don't break it and everybody will go home happy. I wanted to have clear access to all the mounting bolts so that's why I chose to do it that way. B. Lifting next to the ram guide is fine. It's close to a central balance point but the bottom will kick to one side with one strap so you may need another around the crankshaft. C. My foundation is about 4'Lx4'Wx3'D. I have 4x4 timbers laid sideways on top of the slab and a 1" rubber pad on top of that. The problem you get sometimes on plain concrete with no wood or metal is that tools and work will bounce when you start hammering. That small amount of cushion allows a solid hit without a bunch of rebound. D. The crank plate setting and spring tension are related variables. The further out on the crank the box is set, the more lift you will get on the ram. You might think all the way out is the best spot as that provides the most daylight but it ain't necessarily so depending on what type of work you are doing. The spring tension is also important as you can tighten it so much that the ram will choke and stop cycling. My hammer was like that when I got it. The rollers did not move much so the hammer simply bumped the material without doing any work. I loosened the locking screws a 1/4 turn and oiled the rollers - the ram started moving about 4 inches more and you would have thought it was a completely different machine. E. I think Ed is right on the bushings too - looks like the set from inside the frame. The Beaudry's with internal clutch are about as perfect a mechanical hammer as they get for the size - although I also like the Bradley Uprights. The action on the Beaudry is quick, hard hitting and very controllable. You really struck paydirt. The dies alone are worth a grand.

Where was his anvil - already gone?

I make them for the local mountain man re-enactors - I use mild A36 steel and harden in Super Quench. They will bend and the edges get beat up but they never break and are easy to fix in the field with a file and a hammer. Start with 1/4"x1" flat bar and about 8-9" long. Forging a point will pull it out another inch or so. Handles are optional but should either be easy to replace or hard to break. I usually wrap mine in rawhide because that's what the customers think looks cool...

I use old grader blades for stock, which are 1/2 to 3/4 thick and made from high carbon steel. I cut out a block with the OA torch that looks like a fat "F". The top part of the F makes the forks and the lower part is forged into a handle (then it looks like a skinny "F" - instant Weight Watcher plan...;-). Keep the inside of the forks parallel or your scrolls will twist when you are bending - the outside of the forks can be tapered or parallel according to your preference. Grind or file all the sharp corners from the inside of the forks so you don't make nicks in your nice scrolls. No heat treat necessary as the material is quite springy and you are usually bending hot material anyway (although I use mine quite often on cold work). Fork size can be anything you want but the three most commonly used sizes in my shop have forks 3/4" long and 3/8" gap, 1" long and 5/8 gap and 1-1/4" long with 1" gap. Handles on all are about 8-12 inches.

I'm not planning to apply the zinc myself nor will I weld on it after it's completed. The items will be completely installed and tested for proper functioning then disassembled for hot dip - if that is the way they want to go. I have been doing this for 25 years and paint has always worked well - never had a callback for surface finish failure. I will simply tell them to go someplace else if it gets down to an argument. Thanks for all the input.

Anyone ever galvanized a piece for use outside? I have a client who is asking what can be done to minimize rust on some gates and windows. I talked them out of stainless simply because I don't think the cost is warranted in our relatively dry weather so they countered with powder coat on mild steel. I don't think powder coat is much better than regular paint since it can chip and (I assume) is hard to repair so we started discussing hot dip galvanized. I know it is more common on the coast to protect against sea spray but our relative humidity averages less than 50 percent and we have over 300 days of sunshine per year. The bottom line is that they do not want any rust within the foreseeable future.

Sand or bead blast makes a nice finish.