DC712001

Thanks for the reply. I thought it was likely "Normal" construction, but someone else that looked at it, said that the "waist" looked like a repair job. Compared to other anvils I've seen, the "Join" looked sort of ugly, so it got me paranoid about the seam. Still, in examining it, it didn't look quite like a "Weld-repair" either. Thanks Again.

Though construction practices may have evolved over time, I read that Peter Wright Anvils were constructed of (several) pieces of New Iron (no scrap was used.) The Iron pieces were Wrought or Forged into a single base-and-body, then a piece of Sheffield Steel was Forge-Welded to the body. Is this correct or if not, how was a typical anvil constructed? One reason for my asking, I recently purchased a PW Anvil and noticed an Odd seam between the base and body. As I examined the seam in question, I though this anvil must have been broken at some point in the past and was Weld-Repaired. Upon closer inspection, it doesn't look like a Weld. There are no "puddle" marks and no sign of grinding-marks either. It looks more like Forging Marks. Also, there "seems" to be a crack?/Seam? on the bottom edge of the join-point between the base and body. Looks more like it was Forge-Welded together, but I'm not entirely sure how to interpret what I am seeing. Is this "Normal" or more likely some form of repair? The odd-seam is in the area between the "Solid Wrought" stamping and the Weight is Hundredweight stampings.

Thanks for the replies. The reason I thought it might be a Serial Number, was that I read that some of the later-produced anvils had serial-numbers, but that information may be erroneous.

My Peter Wright was Media Blasted, bare. When I bought it, I painted the body with 2,000-degree-rated Primer and Flat-Black 2,000-degree paint. If it is "Clean," Clear-Coat Paint might work. Have used it on other items to keep rust away while allowing the "Original" surface to show through.

I just bought my first Peter Wright Anvil. I cleaned it up a bit and found these steel-stampings. PETER WRIGHT PATENT MADE in ENGLAND SOLID WROUGHT (arranged in a circle) Next, the three digit weight numbers, Then, midway between the "Weight" numbers and anvil base, what looks to be a serial-number: 2068 Finally, at the very bottom just above the base: S The "2068" sure looks like a Serial Number, but I don't know. Due to the "Made in England" markings, I would assume it was produced after March of 1891. With regards to the country of origin marking, it was stated in section 6, page 58 in the original printed McKinley Tariff Act of 1890: "That on and after the first day of March, eighteen hundred and ninety-one, all articles of foreign manufacture, such as are usually or ordinarily marked, stamped, branded or labeled, and all packages containing such or other imported articles, shall, respectively, be plainly marked, stamped, branded, or labeled in legible English words, so as to indicate the country of their origin; and unless so marked, stamped or branded, or labeled they shall not be admitted to entry." Postman suggested the "Made in England" as being after 1910, but others suggest that 1891 is more correct. In any event, would really like to know the "Vintage" year of production of this anvil. Thank You.

Granted, water will cause cracking (or worse) to 5160 spring steel 90% of the time, so that was a bad initial suggestion on my part. My point was to Quench it rapidly (Normalize) as opposed to slow-cooling it in vermiculite. Then, you could re-heat/anneal and continue processing. IF it IS 5160 (or some similar grade of spring-steel from an old truck spring,) it should be forged, then Normalized (heated to Critical-Temperature then cooled in still air or oil-quenchant,) followed by annealing, grinding, hardening, tempering and final-grinding. Here is a good link on the subject: 5160 Blade Forging Ed Caffrey article

Have you tried hammering into a reversed-curve, opposite to the natural bend just to see what happens? Have you tried using a Jig to restrain it during cooling? Have you tried heating, then water-quench, followed by reheat and anneal by slow cooling? Wonder if higher temp might work? Seems almost like Shape-Memory-Alloy, but that is most unlikely. Shape memory alloy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Titanium exhibits "shape-memory" but old truck springs aren't Titanium.

Thanks for the reply and links. I also read from a "Fundamentals of Metallurgy" text, something about molten Iron acting much like a solvent in dissolving other higher-melting-point-temperature elements.

I have a Metallurgical Question. Some Steels and Metal-Alloys include Tungsten in their composition. In producing/smelting these Steels and Alloys (with Tungsten,) how does it combine? Since Tungsten melts at 6170 Degrees f, and Iron melts at 2798 degrees f, how do they mix/combine? Does the Tungsten remain as solid particles in the solution of molten Iron? If so, is the Tungsten ground into fine particles before it is added to the melt, or is Tungsten's melting point reduced when in the presence of molten Iron as a catalyst, or do they heat the melt to 6170 degrees to get the materials to flow/combine? Of course, it's not just Tungsten. When Titanium is added, it melts at 3035 degrees f, tantalum at 5425 degrees f, etc. Many different elements are adeded to Steel, alloys, etc. Just curious.

What grade of steel are common lawn-mower (not the "REEL" type, but the Rotary-Type) made of?

Thanks for the links Neatguy. Good to know there is a source for Square-Hole Drill Bits. Wondering...are they prohibitively expensive (ballpark prices?) I understand you also need the "special" chuck to allow the drill-bit to work.

Have you considered a "Square Hole Drill Bit?" Here are links: http://upper.us.edu/faculty/smith/reuleaux.htm Reuleaux triangle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Reuleaux Triangle -- from Wolfram MathWorld Problem: So far, I haven't been able to find a supplier that sells these drill bits (unless you can make your own?)

Another possibility (in that price range) would be an Oxy-Acetylene Torch, Welding Tips, Hose, Tanks and Cart. You could Gas-Weld. That was my first welding investment (before buying a buzz-box A/C arc-welder or MIG welder.) When I first began welding (late 1970's/early 1980's), low-end "cheap" MIG welders were in the $1,000-plus range (before the advent of cheaper foreign and Chinese imports and overseas production,) and that is $1,000 uncorrected for inflation (so more like $3,000, give-or-take, in 2008 dollars.) As for your current situation, you could always shop around at local welding-supply stores. This is their discount-shopping season, and in the current economy, they may be willing to deal you a good price/cut you a break.

Depends on various factors. How thick/thin a material do you plan to weld, duty-cycle/continuous-use? Also, how good a weldor are you? Actually, a cheap "buzz-box" is more difficult to use, than a more expensive and capable welding-machine. Many, many years ago, when I learned how to weld (at a local community college and OJT at the company I worked at) I bought a Miller Buzz-Box A/C welder. It was REALLY tough to get it to work right, and forget about trying to weld light gauge. Eventually (around twenty-years later,) I bought a Lincoln SP-170 Amp MIG Welder. With the tall-Argon-tank, it was around $570 (7-years ago.) Money well spent, it does the job very well, on fairly light-gauge material all the way to 1/4-inch plate. Used equipment (if you can assess condition and KNOW what you're looking at) might be a way to go. In one regard you're in luck. This IS the time of year (holiday season) that welding supply stores typically have their lowest prices/best sales. Wish I could recommend Harbor Freight Tools (a cheap source) but for the Welding Unit itself, it is usually best to stick with a well-known American brand (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, etc) as repair/replacement parts are often hard to find for foreign/off-brands. Would say that my $50 self-darkening hood and many of the welding-related tools from Harbor Freight have worked out well. Speaking of that, a self-darkening hood is a big help, particularly if you are a beginner or low on experience. I prefer 220 Volt, but the 110-volt unit (I could have ordered the same Lincoln SP-170 as either 110 or 220-Volts) "may" have worked out Ok (though the points made previous seem valid, (might trip your circuit-breaker.) If (in your garage) you have an electric clothes-dryer 220-volt outlet (with suitable circuit-breaker protection/wiring) you might be able to buy or make a plug-adapter to allow for a 220-Volt welder hookup.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, "Fish Plates" ARE "Joint Bars" and not "Tie Plates." I have read that some people use Tie-Plates as floor-anvils/upsetting-plates for upsetting rod material and others cut-down tie-plates and forge the material into knives. I've heard they are likely Medium-carbon steel (1050,) but would like a more definitive verification.