Beaudry #7 (200 lb.), load/moving/slab questions

[Lamey Knives]

Well ive been jockying power hammers around for the past 10 years or so. In this time ive always had my eye open and ear to the ground for a Beaudry. Was really looking for one in the 100-150 lb. range, but when I got a phone call offering me the below #7 (200 lb), it didnt take a long time to decide that I wanted to buy (well I knew I wanted it immediately, affording it has been a different story).

I had put several "want ads" out over the years, and this hammer is a result of one of those ads. The previous owner, who is an extremely nice guy, called me a few months ago telling me about this hammer. At the time I had just purchased most of another shop (2 hammers, 2 forged, tooling etc.), so needless to say funds were a bit tight. The owner of the Beaudry, worked with me patiently to get the hammer paid for.

This hammer originally came out of "American Bridge Co." in Pittsburgh, PA. This was there "small" hammer, was next to some massive A frame hammers. From photos and conversations (many) with the previous owner, it is in excellent condition. Bearings are free yet tight, no cracks/chips in the die block, arms/rollers are excellent (owner removed rollers to inspect, they are as new). Just a very nice hammer in every way.

Enough of the back story, just wanted to tell some of it. I do have a few questions that I will list below.

1- When moving, should I remove the anvil from the frame? I know this can be an issue on the Bradley hammers, but doesnt appear to be an issue on the Beaudry, input needed.

2- What the best location to lift the hammer? Im thinking a few lifting straps around the "C" area?

3- How deep a slab can i get by with? I currently have a section of my shop that has 18" deep concrete.

4- Base needed?? I will definitely have this hammer mounted on industrial conveyor belting. I may also put it on a wood base, not sure, looking for ideas on this.

5- Any start up/adjustment/tuning recomendations?

6- Can some one tell me what the bronze bushings in the last photo are for?

Will probably have a few more questions as the project unfolds. Will also post more pics later, here are a few the previous owner sent me.

Im happy, very happy.

[Ed Thomas]

Answers (you get what you pay for, of course )

1. If you are transporting the hammer standing up, then do NOT remove the anvil. It will help stabilize the frame which will be rather top heavy without it. If you are laying the hammer down on its side then, yes, lift it off the anvil. I have transported my Beaudry hammers both ways successfully. If you lay it on its side, I recommend blocking things carefully to avoid putting too much weight on bearings and guides. Nail the blocks to the trailer as they shift all too easily with bumps and potholes. If you transport it standing up, make sure you strap it a zillion different ways and block the base well.

2. Within my shop, I have lifted my #40 (300 pound equivalent to your hammer) by the casting where the shaft goes through. This is fairly close to the center of gravity. Alternatively, under top of the 'C' would be fine as long as you aren't leveraging against or marring the ram.

3. I went thicker on my slab for my #7... about 3 feet. The specs by Beaudry are for a very heavy and elaborate foundation including white oak timbers on end. I simply poured a reinforced block, put a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top, and have been using it okay for a few years. A friend has a #7 in a rented building that he just bolted to the concrete floor. It works, but the floor is cracking now. I isolated my foundation slightly from the rest of the floor. Within the next few weeks, I should be digging and pouring the foundation for my #40, and it will be at least 3 feet also.

4. Opinions on base vary. I have been okay with yellow pine and plywood. Maybe not the best, but they seem to hold up fine. The only real need for anything over the concrete that I can see is to adjust to the casting imperfections as a sort of gasket, and to spread the shock a little bit. The footprint on the anvil is pretty large, so the shock is already distributed reasonably well.

5. You have one of them there new-fangled Beaudry hammers with the internal clutch assembly. Congratulations. Unfortunately, mine like that is not yet running so I can't offer much advice. I have taken everything entirely apart, cleaned, fitted and reassembled, so I have a fair idea of what to expect. I am still trying to decide whether to run that clutch drive wet or dry. I've gotten completely opposite guidance on this from completely reputable and sincere owners. So you are still on your own for tuning. The relationship between the clutch and brake is a trial and error dance anyway. Watch your motor speed with this hammer. The belt is constant drive so full out clutch engagement with a motor too fast could be a wild ride. My literature shows your hammer should be driven by a 900 rpm motor and the hammer speed should be 225 bpm. Obviously, the motor speed isn't as important as the ultimate rotational relationship between its pulley and the flywheel. So in my case, I'll probably be building a reducer with pulleys and shafts to bring the speed down.

6. The bronze bushings look like replacement bearings for the main shaft at the top. They look like the right size.

You can tell the age of your hammer by looking on the Spring Box, which is the cast piece that houses the upper part of the big springs and attaches to the connecting rod. There should be a two digit number cast in the front of it. For instance, my #7 has a '24' in it, which means it was built in 1924. My #40 casting is barely legible but looks like '34', which is about what I'd expect.

That hammer looks beautiful and the parts that you show look to be in good shape. I hope it gives you as much satisfaction as mine does for me.

[Lamey Knives]

thanks Ed, i know alot of my questions are redundant, just wanting to cover all bases and do this the right way. Your input is appreciated and valued, Matt

[Ed Thomas]

Matt,

Of course you are quite welcome. I'm glad this hammer finally worked out for you. Another great resource on this site is Hollis Wooldridge who has more and longer experience with the Beaudry hammers than I do. I'm sure he'll check in soon with good advice.

Ed

[Lamey Knives]

yep Ive talked to Hollis a few times, ive pretty much decided to "carve" out a section of my existing slab and pour a fresh pad just for this hammer.

[Ed Thomas]

Matt,

Yes, Hollis helped me many times over the years with good advice.

I was looking at the pictures of the brass bushings. I'm not certain how to safely change the ones already in the hammer, but the two different sizes in your picture correspond to what I would expect in the clutch housing and main shaft.

On your hammer, the outer part of the flywheel is called the Friction Pulley. It rotates constantly while the hammer is powered up. When you press on the pedal, the cam opens the "Ring" until it rubs against the inside of that pulley. The ring is attached to the "Spider" which attached to the main shaft. So as that ring (clutch) engages, the spider and main shaft begin to rotate.

There is a bearing inside that pulley so it can spin freely on the shaft of the spider, and there is another frame bushing (or set) inside the frame of the hammer so the shaft and spider can spin freely inside the frame. That accounts for the two different sizes of bushings.

Ed

[Lamey Knives]

Ed, thanks again. As far as I know, none of the bushings/bearings are even close to needing replacement. The previous owner checked everything over very well, disassembled the arms/rollers to inspect, so I know the rollers are like new. Im guessing this hammer either didnt see aot of work (being that there were other hammers, bigger, right next to it), OR it was very well maintained.

One interesting note is it also comes with some sort of record book that gives dates of manufacture and purchaser (dont know how in depth this record book is). If its of interest and worth doing, I will put it in PDF format and link it on my web site.

[Ed Thomas]

Matt, anything to do with Beaudry hammers is interesting. By all means, post the data on your site. I just looked at your pictures again on your site. I forgot that you already have the original (or equivalent) motor with this hammer. What a nice find! I still have to work up a power train for my #40 once its in place. Forgive my memory lapses... I've been rather preoccupied with studies the last 2 years. Should be back to nearly full-time shop time shortly.
Ed

[Lamey Knives]

yeah, has a motor on it, here is a pic, and one of the clutch-

[SGropp]

The hammer looks in great shape. Is that a weld bead around the anvil block below the sow block dovetail? It's hard to tell from the photo. Was the anvil block cracked or broken and then repaired?
This is a brother to my #7,even the same year.
Mine came with the original 5hp 850 rpm 550 V 3 ph. motor and cast iron mount. I repowered it with a 7.5 hp single phase 1725 rpm motor with a 2-1 reduction through a jackshaft . I mounted the motor up high to reduce the footprint and because the original motor mount did not allow long bars to be worked across the dies.
Regardless of how thick your slab is ,I think you would regret having the hammer foundation connected to the rest of the shop floor.

[Lamey Knives]

Steve, ive asked a few folks about the anvil, and the ruling is that its a factory job. Its an even, concentric line around the anvil and looks more like a casting or mild line than a weld, hard to tell, will know more later.

[HWooldridge]

Matt,

Sorry, I've been out of pocket for a few days. I also just picked up your voice mail so feel free to call again if this note doesn't answer your questions.

Everything Ed said is pretty much spot on but I'll add a little bit. I'll preface by saying that I have a #4 but that #7 is pretty sexy...

A. I separated anvil, sow block and frame when I moved my hammer but I don't think there is a right or wrong way. Just make sure you don't break it and everybody will go home happy. I wanted to have clear access to all the mounting bolts so that's why I chose to do it that way.
B. Lifting next to the ram guide is fine. It's close to a central balance point but the bottom will kick to one side with one strap so you may need another around the crankshaft.
C. My foundation is about 4'Lx4'Wx3'D. I have 4x4 timbers laid sideways on top of the slab and a 1" rubber pad on top of that. The problem you get sometimes on plain concrete with no wood or metal is that tools and work will bounce when you start hammering. That small amount of cushion allows a solid hit without a bunch of rebound.
D. The crank plate setting and spring tension are related variables. The further out on the crank the box is set, the more lift you will get on the ram. You might think all the way out is the best spot as that provides the most daylight but it ain't necessarily so depending on what type of work you are doing. The spring tension is also important as you can tighten it so much that the ram will choke and stop cycling. My hammer was like that when I got it. The rollers did not move much so the hammer simply bumped the material without doing any work. I loosened the locking screws a 1/4 turn and oiled the rollers - the ram started moving about 4 inches more and you would have thought it was a completely different machine.
E. I think Ed is right on the bushings too - looks like the set from inside the frame.

The Beaudry's with internal clutch are about as perfect a mechanical hammer as they get for the size - although I also like the Bradley Uprights. The action on the Beaudry is quick, hard hitting and very controllable.

You really struck paydirt. The dies alone are worth a grand.