Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Lamey Knives

Members
  • Posts

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.imageseek.com/lamey/

Converted

  • Location
    Jasper, AL
  • Biography
    grumpy
  • Interests
    guns/knives/woods
  • Occupation
    Bladesmith

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. hi all, HW- still using the Champion #1 at this point, hopefully that will change soon. Clay was used to differentially heat treat, and the stag is very easy to work. Just drill/scrape the pith out, and fit the hole to the tang etc.... As far as fitting it to the guard, was done with a 5/8" round wheel on the grinder and blended in by hand.
  2. HI Mark, thanks for the kind words... flawless though its not ;-) The name is etched then blued, then lightly sanded over.
  3. Been a while since ive posted, trying to play catch up and dont have much time for the computer nowadays. Forged 1095 & Stag Bowie, overall length is 15-1/4", blade is 10-1/4" x 1-7/8", .260 thick at spine. Guard/pin/butt cap are stainless. Thanks!
  4. there is little to no info out there on the Dienelt/Eisenhardt hammers. Only a quick mention in the "Pounding out the Profits" book. Ive seen photos of 2, one is now on ebay. They appear to be extremely well made and well designed machines.
  5. Ive emailed back/forth with some folks in England on the Pattinson Hammers. They are set up to run fairly fast by most standards and have a fairly short stroke. You would need to get dies made, which is getting to be a costly venture.
  6. Difficult to get "activity" in 5160, but you can get a nice straight hardening line. I have had good torch heating the edge, or doing an edge quinch with 5160 and getting a line. If you do a full quinch its really hard to get a hardening line, unless you use heavy clay and heat just until the edge is critical, dont soak.
  7. thanks for the feedback fellas, IronCity, both of those are old orders for a dealer. I dont typically take orders just kinda of make what I want and sell it on my web site. Seems to work out that way pretty good. I do occasionally work with a person on a specific knife.
  8. Thanks all.... HW- forged those on my Champion, dont have the Beuadry set up yet, hope to soon though.
  9. Here are a couple of Bowies I just finished this week (have 3 more to go). Both are W2 with differential hardening lines (achieved with clay), working 400 grit polish. Handles are Ironwood, both are morstise tang construction. One has a blued steel guard, the other stainless. Blades are 10.5" x 2", overall lengths are 15.5+/-.
  10. Odd thing is the hammers were at 1200 and 1500 Buy Now when they were first listed. Guess they moved them up since then.
  11. If you buy this hammer, be sure and either remove the anvil, or chain it so that it is sure not to shift/move during lifting. Ive heard about more than 1 Bradley that has been damaged during lifting, the anvil isnt tight... shifts during the lift and shears the bolt bosses from the frame.
  12. Remember, its just another TOOL, and a tradtional one in my view, it does not "replace" the hand hammer or knowledge to use it. I used a hand hammer for about 10 years before I ever used a Power Hammer. I primarily forge knives, about 99.5% of what I do. So im working with either tool or high carbon steels exclusively. The primary steel I use is W-2, in round bar form, from 1-1/4" up to 2" rounds. A power hammer sure makes working that big round bar much easier than doing it by hand, tried it both ways. To me a Power Hammer DOES NOT REPLACE the hand hammer, it AUGMENTS the hand hammer. I do this for a living, and the power hammer is the prime tool in my shop for effeciency, and that is extremely important when every dollar you make is from that shop. I do agree that a 'smith should learn to use his hand hammer, learn the basics, learn what to hit, why and where. I relate it to bladesmiths that start making pattern welded steel (damascus) before they even learn how to make a good knife out of plain carbon steel. The difference is you can learn the basics of your craft and still learn to use a Power Hammer. As a matter of fact if you learn the basics, and learn to use a power hammer, your craft will have more room to "breath". Just opens up more opportunity, and if your also trying to make a dollar, it speeds things up WITHOUT sacrificing quality or "tradition".
  13. Steve, ive asked a few folks about the anvil, and the ruling is that its a factory job. Its an even, concentric line around the anvil and looks more like a casting or mild line than a weld, hard to tell, will know more later.
  14. Ed, thanks again. As far as I know, none of the bushings/bearings are even close to needing replacement. The previous owner checked everything over very well, disassembled the arms/rollers to inspect, so I know the rollers are like new. Im guessing this hammer either didnt see aot of work (being that there were other hammers, bigger, right next to it), OR it was very well maintained. One interesting note is it also comes with some sort of record book that gives dates of manufacture and purchaser (dont know how in depth this record book is). If its of interest and worth doing, I will put it in PDF format and link it on my web site.
×
×
  • Create New...