Mulciber

I'm in the same boat. I don't have a clue what to set the psi to. I just adjusted it so that I can turn the valve on the torch and it gives me a nice flame that isn't lifting off when I light the propane side and adjusted the oxygen down to where I can turn the knob maybe 1/8-1/4 turn for use with a rosebud. When the oxygen was too high it would *pop* as soon as I cracked the oxygen valve. When the propane was too high I couldn't get the flame to sit on the torch. It would float about an inch out. It's not scientific but it gets the job done. It ended up being much higher than you would want to run acetelyne at but lower than I thought it would be originally. That means somewhere between 15-30 psi. I'm running a pretty big rosebud so my adjustments are probably higher than what you would with a smaller torch.

200amp Tig Welder/50amp Plasma Cutter/Arc welder,IGBT NEW! - $800 (delivered) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PowerUltra 205 Category: DC Cut Tig Arc (MMA) Purpose: DC Multi-Function Welding/Plasma Cutting Combination Unit 200 Amp rated DC TIG (GTAW) 190 Amp Rated Stick (SMAW) 50 Amp Plasma Cutter (PAC) with Pilot Arc Technology: Genuine Infineon IGBT based electronics Operating Dual Voltage: 208/220vac 50/60HZ Input Single Phase 1PH 50amp cut draws 25Amps Open Circuit Voltage: 60-80V 60% Duty Cycle @ Rated Amperages Thermal Overload Protection Weight: 40 Size: 17x8x12 inches Plasma Cutting Specs: 3" Per minute @ 7/8" Steel (Severance Cut ) 7" Per minute @ 3/4" Thick Steel1 7" Per minute @ 1/2" Thick Steel Minimum requirement for air compressor: 3.5 cfm 50 Amps Plasma cutter: Duty Cycle 60% at 50 Amps TIG and Arc Welder 200 Amps DC Tig Welder: Duty Cycle 60% at 200 Amps 190 Amps Stick Welder: Duty Cycle 60% at 190 Amps High Frequency Start Post Flow:0-20 Seconds 2 T/4T setting for foot pedal or torch control Internal High Speed Cooling Fan to Regulate Temperature. What is Included? Main Unit Cutting Torch TIG Torch Stick Holder Earth Clamp Air Regulator with Bracket Air Hose Foot Pedal Argon Regulator Consumables: 3 piece tips, 3 piece electrodes, 3 piece gas diffuser, 3 piece shield cups ***Includes FREE DELIVERY and 5 year Warranty*** 2 5 3- 9 5 1- x x x x Location: delivered it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

So that being said, do you think I could run the operation out of a standard 2 car garage? I'm finding it hard to find a place that works out well. I'm either out of my price range (1600 a month), I'm taking a serious compromise on my living standards to have a shop close or I'm gonna have to live too far away from my day job to have a commute less than 45 minutes. There are a ton of places that would work out if I could work out of a garage. I just don't want to move into a place with the intention of smithing from the garage and then have a ton of issues. Here's what I'm looking at but the house is like 8-900 sq ft and is divided kinda strangely. It's more garage than I need and has 80 amps of 220v. Super nice for smithing but a little less than perfect on the house end. http://denver.craigslist.org/apa/963294729.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As far as soundproofing goes, airtight helps an awful lot. Another thing that helps keep the sound from traveling is diffusion. Trees, one of those military camoflage nets, corrugated metal with spray on insulation sprayed on are a few examples. The idea is that you want to make the sound bounce in a bunch of different angles so that it is not focused.

I am moving mid January. I'm having trouble finding a suitable place to forge. I've been avoiding 2 car garages that are within 30ft of the neighbors house. Question is, how much space do you really need to forge without the neighbors complaining. I plan on doing one of the following to keep the anvil from ringing, a sand filled base or a stump with chains and a magnet. I use a propane forge and wouldn't be working past 9pm.

Anything's better than nothing. I personally don't care for the split leg much so I used the legs straps to tie the two leg pieces together rather than strap it them on. I love my apron even though it was cheap and is the split leg type. Just feels good putting it on. Kinda like a pre-forging ritual. Can't tell you how many times it's saved me too. As far as the crossing in the back. I can't say how much better it is. I've got a 50" round chest so it's kinda a pain to get into place but once it's there it doesn't go anywhere. The over the neck style is easier to put on though.

Makes my anvil look like Frankenstein. Good find! When I was looking I couldn't find anything near that nice for a reasonable price that wasn't 200$ to ship.

I usually don't read posts that refer to how a blacksmith should use technology. Blacksmiths then were people like everyone on this forum is now. Some would use tech some would not. I'm gonna use every piece of technology I can possibly get my hands on. That being said I'll be honest when representing my work, I'll enjoy myself and I'll make money doing it. Call me what you want as I really don't care if you call me a blacksmith, a machinist or a blasphemous fool. Don't derail the thread with more "a real blacksmith would ~" crud. Back on topic, I've been pleasantly surprised how many people are interested in forged items. I haven't been smithing long enough to claim any level of mastery but people seem to love my items. Hand crafted items that the craftsman paid effort and energy to are a rare commodity. It is truly sad that society has gotten to the point where we are willing to pay for shoddy products. Getting your name out there is the most important activity when making money is in mind. I let people know what it is that I do and they ask me if I can do things for them. I usually carry around a couple of keychain leaves to give away as a lead up to giving them my calling card. I'm working on a portfolio that I will have in case anyone is interested in viewing larger portions of work. I haven't landed any large jobs (500+ USD) yet but have had commissions up to 350. I'm not sure I am ready to take orders for anything larger at this point. Once I have my portfolio together I will advance to the point of building a website. Once that is together I will have several methods of attracting business. I'm thankful that I still have my 9-5 and am looking forward to enjoying a profitable hobby until I have the means, skill and direction to make it a business. I'm moving in January and I will be able to pick a place with a nice shop. Once I have earned enough money to purchase or make a power hammer I will probably go down the path of forming a business plan and officially registering. Anyone here teach classes as a supplement to their blacksmithing business? Anyone here have a company where they are employing a team such as other smiths, strikers or apprentice? Anyone care to share any specific info on their business such as shop rates or overhead and the such I would love to dig through it. I'm pretty handy with excel so if you would like some help getting organized I would be glad to contribute some of my time. Thanks to all who have taken the time to reply with their stories and info so far. I'm really thankful for the site and everyone sharing their knowledge.

What're ya whining about an anvil for? Whatever that chunk of metal was set on when you took the pic would make a fine anvil! You don't really need to do anything except perhaps secure that chunk of metal for the first 6 months you are smithing. I bought an anvil quickly because I was excited about it and had the disposable income. One funny thing though, my best piece made on a piece of RR track is better than most of my work done on my 200lb Trenton anvil. I wouldn't spend the time worrying about having an anvil shaped anvil when you're going to ding it up with sloppy hammer blows. Most of your first few months will be exploring different techniques. Plus it's a good feeling when you make something beautiful off something that didn't cost you an arm and a leg. When I have all the expensive equipment I feel like I'm supposed to be able to do better or that I should be doing better because I'm investing so much time and energy into buying expensive tools. If you haven't caught my drift through all that because it was a long winded --> Get hammer time in. Anvil shaped anvil later.

^ Sounds like we have a volunteer!

^ I like that one I want a couple blacksmithing lessons. I won't ever have enough tools but I can make due if I know what I am doing! Wouldn't mind doing an apprenticeship. I know it's hokey and doesn't really exist anymore but I would work for free if I had room and board. Would love to just focus on smithing for a while. All this other crap in my life could definently go to the sideboard.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/anvil-cheap-7452/ I would probably do something like this. However, I would leave an end hanging over so that there's a place to make sharp bends. You will easily be able to last till May with the steel you already have. If you don't do that, I would cut one of the pieces in half and weld it to it self. I don't think you need 25" of working face. 12" will be more than enough. Lots of people use a piece of rail road track set on end. Whichever you do, make sure that you secure the piece firmly. The best method I've seen is to sink a spike into a log and set a chain over the "anvil" with the other side being a adjustable eye bolt (you turn it with a wrench and it has a hook or eye loop on both ends) Depending on the type of steel you may try to temper the top. Many ways to do this and I would wager that it would be worth the effort. When getting started you don't want to use a beautiful anvil because you WILL miss the metal from time to time and there's no reason to abuse a good anvil. I found a guy selling an old anvil that was already dinged up. I set a belt sander on it to remove the rust and started hammering. Later on when I'm confident that I'm not missing the metal anymore I will sand off another 1/8" so the face is smooth. If you think about it, if you're missing the metal once in a while your hammer control probably isn't good enough to make the metal look smooth enough where the dings in the anvil can be seen. Welcome! Get safety glasses before you even buy a hammer. Too many reasons to have them in a blacksmith shop. I have an apron and hearing protection too.

Get some safety glasses first. I don't even walk around in my shop without my safety glasses on. Blacksmith shop is the most dangerous type of shop. I know that sounds like overkill but trust me on this one. It's such an easy habit to adopt and such a heavy price to pay for screwing it up. After the glasses buy a book or two. I recommend "The Art of Blacksmithing" by Alex Bealer. It's only 10 bucks at Barnes and Noble new. Next, order either "The New Edge of the Anvil" or "Backyard Blacksmithing" from Amazon.com used. Go crazy and search for anyone in metalworking locally. There's alot of advice, tools and material you can gather just by saying hi. I always try to exchange value. Don't expect an apprenticeship but you can always ask if they need any help and if you are genuine it shows. Go to the swap meet and find a couple hammers. Don't get anything over 2-1/2 lbs to start. I thought I was going to be a hurcules and use a big hammer but it turns out it's a curve where too light is too little work done and too heavy you get too slow and sloppy. 2 to 2-1/2 lbs seems to be the sweet spot for me. Search out your local scrap yards. There's a couple here that don't pay for steel. When people bring em steel they throw it in a huge dumpster type thing and sell it pretty cheap if you let them know what you're doing. If you can afford a class then take it. Otherwise just be smart, read and get in some hammer time.

If you got the truck I'll bring the masks. They don't have guard dogs do they? I don't see it being too effective a getaway plan running from dogs with an anvil in hand. Well, we all know what I'll be dreaming about for the next few days