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I Forge Iron

S hooks


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I usually start with about 8" to make a standard S hook, but you might want something a bit smaller for your curtains.

I keep a spool of lead solder wire close at hand. You can model the hook (or any other shape) with the wire, then straighten it out and measure it.

Remember to take into account that if you forge tapers on the ends, the stock is going to grow longer, and if you put scrolled finials (curls) on the tips, you will lose length.

Try one before you cut all your stock to length. Get your prototype on the money, then make the rest just like 'em.

Don

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As John mentioned without knowing what size your curtian rod it it would be a bit presumptious to suggest a length. Posting the details with such a question is a good idea.

Will you be at the December SWABA meeting in at the Gunter's smithing school in Moriarty?
I'll be the guy in the disreputable red hat.

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There was a guy at quad state the last 2 years that sells a nifty little adjustable jig for making hooks. I don't make enough of them to justify buying it, but if I was a merchant, I would snap one up. I think he sells them on e-bay. He was demoing them and it was very apparent how handy it was in the fab process. Oops, dis I say fab? I meant... oh well you know!!

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I tend to turn mine by eye/hand/anvil; if I wanted to factory look ones I could move to a 3rd world country and get a job doing it.

OTOH if you need a bunch of them and need them to be exactly the same---like for a curtain rod, then building a small jig is probably a good idea.

Starting with a nice chunk of angle iron (so one side can go into your post vise) you can weld a short piece of pipe to it and then drill a hole the correct distance away to hold a bolt to act as the keeper. (weld a nut under the hole) Note that you can set it up for different size stock by drilling holes at different distances away (you may want to have them spaced around the jig so different sizes have different starting and end points; marking the end point is a good idea to get consistancy.)

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I was the guy set up selling those things...
And yesteryearforge is the guy who makes them.
They are available on ebay. And they have run here on the auction page. Buying it here helps the site!

We now have in stock our Version II which has over 100 size variations with it. But I will not go into a sales plug here...you can go look on ebay or the auction page and read the description.

S Hooks:
At Yesteryear Forge we have prescribed sizes that we make our hooks from. Generally it is 1/4" round, but we also do them in other material. The length material I have set for production is 6", 8", 10", 12", and 14". These are the sizes we make a lot in...we do and can go bigger in length and material per special orders.

I have two main ends on my hooks. One is a curly Q, or pig tail...how ever you call it where you are in the world. And the other is a flat end...sort of like a mini fish tail. One end takes 4 heats(curly Q) and the other takes 2(mini fishtail). I set up and do runs of 6-8 in the fire at once to increase my speed. I can on average turn out 30-35 hooks an hour and they sell for about 3.00 USD a piece.

I will try and see if Mike has any photos at home of the hooks and stuff to post. I am in my classroom right now with my kids taking a test so I am limited...

I hope this helps.

Peyton

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I just found the yesteryear forge card I brought back from quad state. I'm still kickin myself for not buying one of those sweet side draft forge hoods, arg!! My old one is fallen apart, that might be because I made it out of sheetrock and metal studs. After 2 years, it's a little worse for the wear.

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Jimbob, that's a great idea. That will come in REAL HANDY!!! Thanks for the pix. Just happened to think, (No Frosty , you didn't smell hair burning!! LOL.). That would probably be an easier way to make the curl on the candle holders that I show in my gallery.

Edited by CurlyGeorge
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