Pulsepushthepopulace

derp. I now see that you're using stainless... lol

its a disclaimer..... ie. there are individuals in this world that test fate by being dumb and don't understand the dangers of using caustic ingredients....They might even go as far as tasting, drinking, or inhaling, etc... Wear gloves, glasses, and all the necessary PPE... Chemicals are used by artists to intentionally patina sculptures and metalwork...

**** use necessary safety gear, and don't test darwinism*** muratic acid diluted in water... or hydrogen peroxide... fresh blood from the butcher... Anything that is oxygen rich aides in rusting...

I'm pretty sure I've seen that Hay Budden in person, and it's every bit the 300 lb. monster... Grind it to clean bare wrought iron, pre heat, keep that remaining plate from losing it's temper, and start laying build up beads... 7018 rods, de-slag, a hammer peen your welds.... I'd really be concerned about how that plate delaminated in the first place, and make sure the flaw didn't continue underneath the remaining plate.

No worries Alex, that's all water under the bridge as far as I'm concerned... It's all in accordance with seizing the opportunity the instant something presents itself. Florida anvils, to your advantage, are usually smaller 80-100 pound range... Another one will pop up sooner or later...

Only way to find out is to spark test it...

I'll bet if you take that paint off you'll see that it's either a Fosters, Dudley, or no makers mark...

It's a legitimate anvil and definitely not an ASO. There are some issues I "see" from the other pictures this individual has up that concern me, and I've actually expressed this to the buyer via email correspondence. Trust me when I say that he/she doesn't really know what it's worth; I got a few numbers out of the conversation, but they were along the lines of someone offering his son $450 for it a year ago... or was it $600??? Some extremely bogus quote from what I remember. 1. It's painted, no matter how much I try to coerce the seller, he won't strip that "nice paint job"... 2. There seems to be a significant gap in the top plate. 3. Torch cuts... errrr 4. There seems to be a huge crack on the waist, just behind the horn in the pic that has the horn facing to the left... All this could be resolved in a physical inspection and rebound test... So I'd just go there cash in hand... I personally wouldn't offer him anything more than $100 to kick off the haggle, based purely on it's visible condition... Considering "our" regional handicap on anvils, $2 a pound is the norm right off the bat.

Ideally in the junkyard you should focus your efforts on forklift tines or RR track... turn these on end and you have a very serviceable post anvil... Also, as stupid as it might sound, a big slab of granite (rock) serves as a formidable forging surface... Next time you see a Viking, say thank you... :D http://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/bog_iron.htm

I believe the anvil is Tylythium Diodinos and is Extra-Terrestrial in nature... Hence it has remained invisible, and I used my telepathetic powers to ask it where it hails from... Pictures paint a thousand words... mere words paint a thousand pictures...

Every DIY anvil out there serves as a powerful motivator for noob Smith's that are lacking an anvil. Of course you're making things way more difficult than you have to by fabricating this massive euro-londonesque anvil, and a block of steel would serve you well for %95 of your general smithing needs... BUT you're breathing life into the spoils of what hard work, ingenuity, and overcome/adapt bring to the table. Kudos to your efforts, because I guarantee this thread alone's gonna do the smithing world a favor by setting a few fires in some hearts...

I've reached the end of the argument, and I have failed to win the battle, but the spoils of the war are still out there... I've found a home for the anvil until I I can use it for my own showcase... My father-in-law is gonna mount it on a stump in his office, where a bottle of fine bourbon will rest by it's side...

Successfully shipped; My anvil needed to be boxed according to UPS standards... At the very least a double wall thick box (wont work ;)... I went triple wall; 1 single wall box packed tightly with some outside strapping tape placed into> double wall box with exuberant amounts of strapping tape/ packing tape... Standards with UPS are different everywhere, depending on whom your dealing with apparently... I've heard several times throughout the forum about shipping an anvil with a protective layer over the face and the horn only... In my specific case, this was entirely not the case... Thanks Fatfudd, I felt it was a bit silly making a new thread on the matter, this is the numero 1 pinged thread on google, in regards to shipping and anvil...

Wow guys! Thanks a ton!!!! I'm going to get on the horn with miller ASAP and fetch that remote kit, then hunt down the rheostat foot pedal... There has been a lot of back and forth with my friend (professional welder by trade). He keeps on telling me the machines capable of this and that, and I can't find a lick of insight anywhere on the interwebs, including the millerweld forums... Again I snagged this welder up ubber cheap @ $300. As it stands, it's capabilities as a stick machine exceed my needs as a hobbyist. So deciding to add all these gizmos and attachments are far less expensive than a new tig setup, and as far as the ends justifying the means is concerned a far better and more capable tig machine than I could ever afford... If I can find the right deals on the right equipment, I could easily have a dependable, capable machine, that could last me my entire life, for right around the $1100 mark including the purchase of the machine... Point me in the direction of a less expensive option, with the same "industrial" capabilities, in that same price range... I'm not knocking IGBT technology and tig specific setups I'm not trying to be the all-knowing nooberwitz tossing weight around here, because despite a few "guiding" familiarities I know about welding machines, I really don't know squat about squat. Familiarities: - You get what you pay for! - Domestic setups= $$$$$ - Foreign Setups= $$$ - GO BLUE!!!!!!!!!!!!! - Newer inverter technology has a shelf life far shorter** than the domestic dinosaur/transformer units that haunt the local craigslist... ** caring for said equipment plays a huge role

ha ha yeah, I know, I'm asking for the moon and stars... I see coolmates and HF boxes all the time under $300 on CL... I'm getting the gist that HF boxes don't allow you to manipulate the arc it just enables the welding of aluminium... At least that's what I'm gathering... Do the fluid cooled torches have a benefit over air cooled torches?

Lets hope I have zero issues today. I really don't want to eat 45 bucks...

Thread resurrection! They gave me a hard time today @ UPS... "oh mY!, that has to be professionally packaged! We can't ship it like that..." $45 + the cost of shipping... lol..... sure thing ma'aam, I know a guy who's a licensed super-duper-sergeant-major-packager that will do it for free... Be back tomorrow... :D We'll see if it flys...

Is there any way around physically turning the gas flow on and off? Or is there a torch out there where I can manually set the flow without turning the gas on, and a simple trigger mechanism that turns the gas on? I just don't want to frog around with knobbies and want to waste as little gas as possible...

Thanks to the forum's guidance I've attained a DialArc 250 AC/DC for $300 a few months ago, and I can't seem to find any definitive way to go abouts setting it up for "ideal" TIG welding... This is my exact setup- http://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-DIALARC-250-AC-CONSTANT-CURRENT-ARC-WELDING-POWER-SOURCE-/360490104758?pt=BI_Welders&hash=item53eee277b6 I'd like to know how I can augment this welder to exploit it's full capabilities. I want to add; - high frequency box; for aluminum and (HF starts???) - water-cooled tig - implement foot pedal if possible - possible mig attachment If I have to run a basic air-cooled scratch start tig, is there a solenoid activated attachement on the market that can turn the gas on and off upon the striking of the arc?

I've seen ASO's in the #220 + range... Always test rebound... Always avoid the ASO...

That was actually my first inclination; play into her idea of design, which should jive considering she's more drawn to rustic country.... I think she's just saying no, cause she can... It really is quite a cool piece considering all the DIY network she watches...

I'm staring at an almost empty box of those insta-start logs by the fireplace right now... I bet come summer, I can cut out the bottom, sneak the anvil in there, and remove the box while she's at work.... It'l be next winter before she notices, then I can say she hardly noticed it, so why not keep it there???

Very nice score! You should post up the the serial number and find out if it's a post 1909 (+) Budden...

I dig the forged flowers / fire place set ideas.... There has to be some form of attainable compromise, as my cunning and craft won her over in the first place... Just have to regroup, rehash, and redeploy efforts where they count... This thread will end with an anvil near the fire place... :ph34r:

I have a way of striking out before I'm up to bat... I told her that it was gonna happen... She replied, "Don't be surprised when it magically disappears..." So now I'm debating on whether or not she can lift it, and how much ground can she cover if she does...