Pulsepushthepopulace

^... Sketch up Dimensions; Height: 12" Width: 5 1/4" Face Length: 12" Horns: TBD... Might get mysel another pair of forks to add to the mix, just for the heXX of it.... eventual goal will jive in the same fashion as "the guru's Anvil of Creation", because of his inspirational drawings and how to... Lots of welding, little MIGs not going to cut it... Looking into that new stick/mig/tig northern tool hybrid... Should be sufficient... but for now.... Sigh.... More cutting.... Might kill a grinder... or two.... ha ha... photobucket has decided to show you my concept drawing doing a pirouette.... Don't fret, I do not plan on working hot metal in this fashion....

You're picking up what's being put down. ;)

I purchased a pair of fork tines locally for the sum of $75.... Class III 4x1.75x60", by the weight of them, they're a good +150lbs. each guesstimation considering I'm not pot bellied slouch of a man, and they gave me trouble... I'm going to laminate the tines into a two horned nimba' esque' anvil, of which, I will give a ridiculously stupid name... peanut, bam-bam, bubbles,etc... That way I can giggle when it's referenced in future diy undertakings... Laminated vertically for optimum awesomeness! Harfaced, twin horned. Hardy, Pritchel..... I'll upload the sketches in a few hours, I need to be cutting... that way the forum can't talk me out of doing something retarded... Gee whizz that picture sucks... never mind though, won't be forks for long...

sigh....

Isn't it strange that we get so excited over these discarded drops?... Everyone I've spoken with in regards to looking for a huge "chunk-o-steel", looks at me like I'm a retarded nutzo... They usually crook their head to one side like a inquisitive puppy... Great score man, and one helluva good friend!!!!

Why not strap the rr track on top of the aso??? I'm in your same boat, with just a bit more rr track than 8 inches. I followed the vertical mounting suggested by the guru on anvil fire; you get the most bang for your change ... I'm currently building another, and quite honestly, It's going to be far less expensive and far more robust than anything I could ever hope to have... Forklift tines... Found 2 sets of forks locally, one with a bucket attached (more plate steel)... one sets $95, the bucket with forks is $150... Plan cutting all 4 fork tines, and vertically sammich'n them together... shooting for 250-300 lbs... This will be an ongoing love affair... figure I can johnny cash it to 500 lbs over the next year or so, adding implements and what not... If you found yourself 1 tine, you'd be far better off than with an aso.... just craigslist it once, just to see how readily available and cheap they are... probably pick one up for less money than the aso as well....

Muratic acid and hydrogen peroxide is another avenue of approach... More volatile, but keeps well, easier to get ahold of, and has less of an environmental impact in comparison to copper sulfate.... staedler dry erase marker -> Red...

My handle is also my blog... caution; anger, foul language, and anti-american sentiment...

SIlicone bronze/ silibraze... They use it for body work on cars... MIG or TIG... TIG especially for finite detail... You can lay some pretty welds with it, check it out in google images... Just a suggestion...

Tractor supply company sells leaf springs. lowest leaf spring (3) leaf bundle starts around $34, which is a good price in comparison to what the local junkyards (LKQ) are letting them go for, which is right around $30 a leaf spring...

Pandora Radio; Animals as Leaders Valiant Thorr Thrice Danzig Dub Step Mofro ... I'm a bit left of plumb when it comes to taste....

Thanks for all the replies guys... I'm gonna set my Macgyver heart aside on this one and do it right the first time... The structural integrity of the anvil is numero uno on my list. I cant have a hot 15 pound double-horned anvil breaking under stress. Thats a bad day... Times like these make me want a stick welder in the worst way... I've seen plenty affordable ones on CL, just outside my price range... Guess it's time to phone a friend... ;)

:( Guess I've got to pass it off to the buddy...

I had a soccer coach that had both of his arms amputated due to a horrible electrocution accident... He had split hooks that where closed and opened all on account of a tension pulley system hooked up to both prosthetics... if he wanted to close a hook, he would just move the opposite shoulder blade forward and reach with the other... He had zero issues, and could shuffle paperwork with no problem... He used to say "I might look crippled, but I've got a heckofa right hook..." lol

I'm currently building an anvil out of RR track, and trying to go abouts it the correct way. I'm using this page as a reference, specifically after this kind of end product; ... Only I will have a double horn with gussets... I have beveled an appropriate amount of the base track in order to get maximum penetration (1/2" gap max), and do plan on preheating the parent metals. My welding knowledge and abilities are still wet behind the ears mind you. I'm working with a Lincoln pro mig 135, .30 flux-core wire, and 75 Ar/25 o2 mix. Getting to my question... My old boss used to run this dual-shield set-up for all his structural work, only he had an industrial sized mig with a spool gun... I've read a lot of back and forth banter about this not being the right way to go abouts "dual-shield welding", and that flux-core was meant to be used without gas.period.changes the integrity of the weld.etc.etc... I just want these two pieces of metal to stick together, and I need some really good penetrating zero porosity welds... With the above setup, right prep, right settings, running a bead then wire brushing off any left over flux, and building up the welds, with this method serve me well? Also, I was wondering what kind of settings I might want to run with this kind of dual shield welding? I was going to run a few test welds just to see what I'm dealing with, but if someone knowledgable chimes in with some good advice, I'd appreciate what ever you had to offer... Or, if this is just a fruitless and stupid endeavor, I can always have a friend tig it... I'd like to attempt it, but if there's no hope

Eds Red! I've read reviews that that mix, in scientific testing, beats all as far as penetrant is concerned... From what I understand the acetone differs from the laquer thinner in regards to evaporation... only difference... Rgr, and it makes a mighty fine fishing attractant too... The new "specialist" formulas vary across the spectrum, and differ greatly from the original WD-40...

I'm a big fan of Gibbs Brand penetrant, but in the wake of limited funds I cannot afford such a luxurious blend of oil ($11-$12 for 12 oz. can)... So, I took to the internet in search of a recipe, and found some interesting info... Low and behold, there is a thread that exists out in the interwebs that reveals the secret gibbs formula; the OP also states that the inventor of the formula verified it's true composition... 1 Part ATF (automatic transmission fluid) $4 1 Part Laquer Thinner $5 ... You should believe everything you hear on the net... :blink: So I went to wally world, and picked up a quart of each, to test the above formula and quite honestly it behaves like the gibbs oil, just soaks right into the metal. It's not like the messy (carrot juice) PB blaster, or like the new (specialist) WD-40 rust inhibitor ($11-$15 for 6.5 oz. :wacko: )which I've been stealing from my dad... The gibbs stuff just leaches on and dries to a wet "looking" luster.... doesn't have a wet white-ish oily film like the wd-40, -> which collects dirt... ** I added 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil for my own reasons, figured it wouldn't hurt, only drawback from the above mentioned formula is increased dry time... All my equipment is semi exposed to the harsh Florida elements, due to working under a lean-to... Everything that I have used it on has remained free of rust for 6 weeks...Those who know florida know how awful the environment is on all things metal; the average lifespan of a galvanized gate is 3 years max before it starts turning into brown dust... Not a single glint of rust, and quite honestly I don't foresee any in the distant future... Also above formula is an insanely effective penetrant, that works just as good if not better than anything on the open market... Long run costs totaled $15, which gave me 3 quarts... Figured I'd share... Quite honestly, if you have a home-brew recipe, which I've read a couple lurking here, please share...

German for cherry. Very cool conglomeration of info you have here, been lurking outside the fire for a good 2 months now just soaking it all up... I've finally organized my workspace to a point in which I can beat the crap out of hot metal... I have been loaned a nice venturi forge, some hammers, and jigs from a good friend, as well as acquired some RR track, a welding table, and a good bit of metal stock... I've had the privilege of doing a little blacksmithing with a good friend of mine, and I can say after that little taste of "the art of" I just became unbelievably fascinated... Any-who, just wanted to give a heads up to all the people in the house that I will ask a great deal of non-searchable questions (ie. I searched first), and hopefully, in the long run, become a productive member and eventual resource to the site. - Zach