Pulsepushthepopulace

Don't know if this was the right way to do it, but I've seen several examples of hardies that look similar. Critique is welcome and encouraged, as I want to make a few more, encompassing the same type of design, just different functions...

So is non-dairy creamer... http://youtu.be/yRw4ZRqmxOc?t=44s Disregard electric wire brush, and use strictly elbow greased-lightning powered brush...

I dig it... Another thing that would be extremely useful would be someone chiming in on how to use all the various areas of an anvil... sort of a purpose driven post...

One day when you catch him peeking through the window at you... act like you don't see him and; pace frantically back in forth for 5 min... Stop pacing, then act like you're arguing with a rock for 3 min... stop, pick up the rock, hold it like a baby and skip around like you're tip toeing through the tulips... keep an eye on him, and make sure he doesn't grab a camera... Then go on you way, as if nothing ever happened. When your landlord asks you about it the next day, look and sound perplexed, deny everything, giggle, and ask if he's being serious (at least 3 times)... This accomplishes 2 things; Your neighbor is now a crazy person fabricating fantastically unbelievable stories, and he's probably gonna avoid you like the plague... nothing like living in the rural countryside with Cpt. Looney Tune next door... and yes. I've done this with great success...

I just made my first fuller out of the web of a RR track... Had to upset some rectangle stock the hard way as well, to make it tapered... I'm kicking myself for not having any square stock to draw out, as that would have been much easier... Hardy done the hard way...lol I'm finding that the cannibalizing RR track for tooling is the way to go... So many options.

LOVE THE GIBBS!!! Wire cup brush with wd40 till it's how you like it.... - Messy Minerals spirits to clean the beastly residue..... Then Flame Proof VHT clear.... :D

Tabasco polishes up copper real nice! It all makes sense now, due to the acidity mentioned above...

That information is direct from the tampa craigslist ad. I'll gladly cough up dibs to another local beginner-smith on this one, as I've lost interest now that it's not a Swedish anvil. Not to say that buddens are bad, I'm just not coughing up that kind of dough for something that small.... 3 "real" anvil ads in the past 6 months, one of those I snagged up... They're pretty scarce down here, and at least he'll negotiate... $595 is just in another galaxy as far as I'm concerned... So is $375 for a "supposed" 100lbs. anvil...

Thank you gents... Glad I got a second opinion... It's supposed to weigh 100lbs. I'm in Florida, so geographically speaking the seller can get $375 for it, if he listed it for that much... $595 made me giggle. I'm going to stick to my guns and stay at 250, and ask the seller to keep me in mind if a buyer doesn't come along.... If it were a sweedish job, I'd meet him half way.// Thanks again!

I'm thinking it's a Soderfors??? Seller's original ad was $595- antique anvil LOLZZzz on that price!!! I Offer $250.... counter offer is $375... Were slowly meeting at the middle here... I'm willing to go $300, but I'm just needing a second opinion on what I'm looking at... I'm second guessing myself, because I'm seeing a #2 below the horn, and another "9???" I'm not seeing any other Soderfors with markings like that on the google... ???

That's such a beautiful piece. You really had fun with manipulating perspective on this one... That swooping void in the center as well as the dished out circle really plays with the eyes... It would be awesome if you kept that dished out sphere roughed up as-is, and didn't blast it, because in that center photo it almost looks as if it's tangibly protruding as opposed to being a concave void.

I prefer the nostalgic challenge of doing everything in accordance with the primitive art, but there are times where I will use the welder... There are certain textures that a welder can accomplish in sculpture... For example, I'm fabricating a sculpture of a snook ambushing a shrimp in sea-grass; the welder makes short work out of details concerning barnacle build--up... Lay a buch of random sporadic beads, knock off slag then hit the bead bulbs with a punch... I think where using a welder goes wrong is in the reveal... If you're going to cheat, cover up your tracks. Every time I run into something that's forged, I have to touch it, examine it, look at the joinery, feel it for what it's worth... The more modern joinery I "see", the less the piece means to me... What's wrong with grinding down a weld, bringing it back to a finishing heat, and working it a bit more? Far better just grinding it down and just leaving it looking manufactured... I agree with the above statements... It's far better suited for tooling...

Good deal. There was a guy at the flea market that wanted to trade me a Columbia vise for the little one... He seemed to have a lot of interest and enthusiasm about the trade, and based on that I felt that I might have something more than an ASO, so I kept it... I probably backed out of a good trade, but the market for anvils here in FL is small... Figure theres 20 vises to every anvil on CL... I researched the semi-steel anvil, and all I was getting back was ASO, cheap, rebounds like concrete, but upon rebound test it's definitely not concrete... The Fisher's the real score here... Never thought I'd have that much soul...

Just picked these guys up the other day; a 110 Fisher, and a really interesting ASO... Guy wanted 200 for the Fisher 40 for the ASO, and figured why not try and make a deal for the both of them... So walked away dishing out $200...lol I've been beating on a RR track post anvil for the last 4 months so when it came time to do the rebound test on the fisher with a ball peen hammer, I didn't know what to expect... Needless to say, I was caught off guard and nearly ate the round end of the ball peen... Wow! So this is what rebound is... Having never felt it, seen it, or experienced it at that level, I simply assume that it's magic. I have to say that I'm quite impressed!!! The Fisher rebound was just fantastic, have to say that it's better than 85%, and I'm the scrutinizing type due to my inexperience with rebound tests... The ASO is quite unique. The bottom has a swage/dapping block... The rebound is pretty good too, far better than my RR track, closer to 50-60%, nothing like the Fisher... Theres also a #2 between the feet, and a trademark (diamond with an LTC??? LTG???)... I'll more than likely flip it, trade it, etc... Just interested in who manufactured it, because it's quite an ingenious design... Chilled semi-steel ASO, but quite cool...

Pressure washer works well removing the paint after you strip it...

^ This is the best suggestion so far... Idea presented here is any foreign contaminants in the body get attacked by white blood cells... If so, infection battlegrounds (puss) surrounds the contaminant, and it eventually leaves the body... A hot compress, even something as subtle as sugar (papaya), aids in bringing the infection/contaminant to the surface... I was shoving a quartered bamboo stake into the ground once and it broke, sending my grip about 8" down the shaft... I had about 5 (visible) separate shards go through my middle finger... some went through the bottom finger joint...picked them out... Very painful to say the least... about 2 days later, I notice a zit-like abscess in the area (still painful)... So popped it and out shot a 1/2" splinter... it came out like a air pressure gauge you use to check a tire... gross!... At night I put a glob of sugar in the area, and wrapped it... next morning another abscess, another shard... I took for 1/2" splinters out that way... Last one, I let a SOST guy cut it out...

Some things went sour financially, and this is still in an unfinished state. Luckily it hasn't run away, even though I curse at it and call it rude names... Still trying to source a fork locally, now that I have finally built up a budget of sorts. Should be done with it here in the next month or so, pending I a window of time to disappear into the barn for a couple of hours...

Yep, even now, @ 1:27 am... nom Nom nOM... Love me's some cocoa crispies!!!!

I just spit milk and cocoa crispies on the lap top...lol

Just got a miller dialarc 250, as soon as I get done with the current anvil build, I'm gonna cut and re-weld this with some 7018... I'm much more confident in the stick process, having burned through some boxes now I just like the way it lays a bead... I will post pics for sure > when I cut through it, because I want to see for myself where I did or did not mess up... I'm without a band saw at the moment though... :unsure: My process was bevel the metal to to a point where I was essentially welding about a 1/4" material together; sandwiched 1/4"stock as a spacer in the middle, tack the outside edges, preheat, then laid a bead as neatly and as close to the center as possible, and went to the other side and built upon that with another bead, then finally joined it all with a third bead that hit the top parent metal... I filleted my way out, using a pound of wire... deslag and wire brushed between passes... I'l throw up a pick next time I'm out in the barn though...

http://ninjapiratebl...blr.com/archive *** Warning Not Family friendly, possible vulgar language exists in the above link... You have been warned. His work isn't to horrible... better than his acting at least...

Ohhh Man... I'm having a blast... I finally got all the electrical sorted, flipped the switch and the fan hummed this beautiful hymn, unlike anything thing I'd ever heard... Laid a few beads, got stuck... laid a few more... started to get the feel for the process... I just started getting really good with the mig, so seeing the globular mess again made me smile and say "that ain't right"... I went through about 10 lbs of 3/32 sticks friday, just getting the over all hang of it... tis my Zen.

These are all very informative posts! Thank you all for your help... Almost have the DialArc 250 set up... This past week has been all about getting the electrical sorted... Tomorrow, I fire her up!!!!

As expected. Disregard everything I said, as it was counterproductive. You don't have to worry about any more of my contributions. Hopefully someone will chime in and give you something to progress your situation and get you forging.

$300 for the Dialarc was just to good of a deal to pass up... Couldn't afford not to scoop it up... and by scoop it up, I mean kill myself trying to get it on and off the truck... I've purchased 10 lbs. of hobart 7018 3/32 for welding up my forklift fork anvil. I won't break those out until the day of... I'll run a few test beads with the sticks I got in the deal, after I throw them in the oven for a bit... Thanks for the tips regarding electrode application...