Steve Sells

Good to see you back Jayco, your grandchild was here in the chat a while ago, but the lag time, meat that they left before I could get my hello to appear. Let that little person know we were not ignoring them. buy the server was still acting up.

Lots of ideas, but... not all that read a post are able to help. OK side draft. Whats wrong with the 18 inch run parallel to the opening of the draft? I have a 17x17 pot for my forge, draw is no problem, I dont see how 1 more inch would effect that. I also made an adapter for a long pipe to convert that into a 40 inch long fire pot heating the blade for Heat treat. but that DOES smoke up the shop a bit, I should add I also have a exhaust fan in the ceiling,, when I tested it, cleared the shop air in 20 seconds.

I have noticed a few of the budget places also are on a tight budget with it comes to their advertising, and server space too. For example a few used the same photo for all the anvils they sell. I noticed that when I enlarged the pic that they each had the same name and file size. I would not be surprised if this place share photo;'s too.

No this is not completely correct, you may wish to read a bit more before making a statement like that. There is not even any evidence it was ever made in that city. Even searching this site, should give you a little more insight. and as for 5000 years....

I love that Jeff.

A give of love always trumphs a store bought. And I like the horses.

[Ted T] When I don't want to take the time to put on my safety glasses or a mask or some other bothersome safety process, I now think in terms of (I owe it to my wife and family to do it) . [steve sells] MY forge pair of glasses has IR filter for the forge too [Ted T] Tinker2 --- Correct!!! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! [steve sells] MY doctor suggested ROSE-ONE [markb] What is rose 1 [steve sells] some use didydium, and Ptree, a safety inspector in S Indiana said a #3 filter for welders is enough to protect from IR burning our retna's [steve sells] there are dif fillters that can be added to glasses to protect for light rays [Ted T] People have wooden legs and arms, but you cannot see out of a plastic eye! [steve sells] I asked my deye oc and he told me the rose-1 is better for the wave lengths I see in forge welding, 1800 to 2300F, and that the didydium was for glass melting [steve sells] but a cheap protection is buy a #3 filter at the welding shop, get a clip on for over your normal glasses if you wish [markb] Is rose 1 clear or tinted [steve sells] looks clear, but I can see its not completely clear when I take them off it also removes the HAZE in the fire pot I can see the metal clearer too it is NOT pink like the didydium are [markb] I only have one eye so this is important to me [steve sells] ok so Mark buys a monicle the rest of us should listen to him cause he KNOWS what it is to have only one, I hope none of us have that problem I also have 2 pair of the $8 safety glasses, for visitors. [steve sells] hearing: ear plugs are hard to place when I have dirty hands, so I have 2 pair of FLIGHT DECK head phones also good are shooting head phones, as they can be put in place, and removed easy. [markb] I carry the foam plugs in pocket at all times [Ted T] At 69 yrs I am deaf, lung problems, and arthritis. I cannot take a chance with what is left of my body. I use -- N99 breathing mask when I weld. I have a " Lincoln Electric Fume extractor" . I use several deferent type of masks and eye wear! Hearing is important. Ear protection is a must when you need it. I cannot tell where the leaks are with my air delivery system are located. I have to get my wife to come out and listen for me. [markb] can't have too many [tetnum] kill the ring on the anvil it helps emensly. [steve sells] I killed mine with rubber mat, and a log chain [steve sells] what about first aid kits in your shops ? I don't expect you get a large one like mine, but what do you have? : a simple car type kit hanging on the wall, with a tweezers for removing splinters is plenty [tetnum] the big one and the smaller one for demos [steve sells] what about protecting our hands? I have a box of kevlar gloves, they cost me $8 a pair [tetnum] no gloves with spinning things [Ted T] That is good tetnum [steve sells] I grind bare handed too, but when the blade is sharp I wear them to hand polish the blade and handles [Ted T] I am going to remember that one: [tetnum] 8:45 pm: no gloves with spinning things [markb] Can you feel through kevlar? [steve sells] I occasionally get bit by the belt when grinding, but thats better than getting pulled in by it, no gloves at the wheel [tetnum] yes and when heat is gone its gone unlike leather gloves [steve sells] not as well, they are thin knit gloves, the feeling IS reduced a little, But there is still plenty of feeling for hand sanding, that is where I usually get cut by the blade [markb] I've had the leather burn [tetnum] its steam that sits with you [markb] I'm deathly afraid of the buffer [Ted T] I love my LEATHER welding gloves. But you would be suprised at how long it really takes to get one off if you need it off quickly. [tetnum] i dont own one and have no plans of getting one [Ted T] the cost is nothing compared to going to the ER and all (It could be a few thousand ) [steve sells] a few wise men have started when ever we enter a work place, decide what we want to keep with us when we leave,and try to protect those body parts while we are in there. [Ted T] As a rule of thumb, I guess I calculated the cost of safety equipment with the cost of Medical costs. Equipment (no pain) won out! [steve sells] also MY WIFE made me put a thermometer in the shop [markb] for heat exhaustion? [steve sells] she TOLD me if that says 90F or above I better have a jug of drinking water near me..That is at head level 2 ft from the forge. Just like my head is when working there.. so its close to same temp MY head is at. Its very easy to get dehydrates in the shop and so easy to prevent [Ted T] I had a heat stroke two years ago. I was in the sun for 4 hours before they found me. I could hardly stand any heat this year [markb] Too many hot attics for me no tolerance [tetnum] some one had an air conditoned shop i may see a reason for this {steve sells] Thank you TED for joining us and giving up your evening play time for us here [Ted T] I just wish I could visit everybody and talk about it in person. Their safety means more to me than my blacksmithing

compiled from Friday night Knife Chat Feb, 06,09 [steve sells]tonight we are covering Safety in the knife shop. I must state I am a slob but we MUST keep out floor clean, and swept tripping with a 2000F blade in our hands and falling can be annoying., a grinder or saw vibrating off can kill us. Since I build my new shop I have most everything bolted in place, but a C clamp works well too my chop I used C clamps as I move it a lot. Ever use a drill press and have it grab the stock ? my press had a machinists vise, I also have to use C clamps. [markb] I have a lot of tools on wheeled carts but then there are cords all over the floor , not good, so I thought about outlets hanging from above [steve sells] thats a good idea, TED I just started by covering the Tools being locked in place, and stock secured. Cord reals, can be as simple as S hook hanging on the stand to the spring loaded coils $30 at lowes, because a tangle is asking to get your feet caught. Tonight I asked Ted to join us as this man has over 35 years experience as an OSHA inspector. Ted the floor is your if you wish it [Ted T] I had a real holder "Retractable" I felt it at one time it was connected to a heater. The coil and the plug was RED HOT! [markb] Too small or induction? [Ted T] I think it was induction. It took a week! [markb] A week to get hot? [Ted T] It was so hot that as I un-wound it I could not touch the cord! I do not know how long it took, I had had it plugged in for a week before I felt it! [markb] I've heard of induction heat from coiled cords but never seen it [steve sells] I must add SPLITTERS can be a BIG nono, how many of you have splitters in your shop to plug in a few items to the same outlet? As electrician I have installed 20 amp receptacles, 20 amp wire and a 20 amp breaker for every single plug location so I do not over load, but I bet most here do not have that available to them. [Ted T] 1Steve would you like me to just post a quick list of types of problems I am aware of -- Over 50 years of observations and experience with it! Here is just a few, but not limited to this list of Shop Dangers where people may get hurt or killed. ...Acids for etching or cleaning (breathing fumes, splash, or contact) --- Hot Oil or Salt used to heat treat. --- Electrical problems (shorts in cords or tools) (coiled extension cords heating up) (extension cord trip or snag) --- Heat (grabbing hot tools) (picking up -hot-black- hot steel) (not keeping hydrated ) --- Obstacles or objects on shop floor (trip and fall) --- Slip Slippery floor (Oil or water from quenching), --- Fumes produced from Welding, Cutting, Heating, Quenching, Etching and Forging ) --- Grinding (sparks around flammable material) (spark slivers in eyes) (broken stone chunk projectiles) (stone, wire brush, cloth polishing wheel, (catching throwing, or material wrap up with what ever it can get a hold of) --- Oxygen (mixed with oil), to much pressure with Acetylene (not over 15 psi) --- Gas leaks such as (propane) (acetylene), --- Process of Turning on and off gas tanks (gauge blow back) Quenching a pipe or cylinder (steam blow-back), --- Hammering with hardie left in the hardie hole (cold or hot cut especially) --- Un-secure anvil, vice or other equipment (crushed feet injured hands) --- Not using Head, Foot, Clothing, Eye (proper lens & protective covering), Ear, and Breathing protection when required --- Lifting to heavy of an object, or an awkward object, or lifting object in-correctly --- Using a broken tool such as a (hammer with a loose head) (broken lens in welding helmet) --- Using tongs that do not fit the material you are forging --- Not controlling visitors or animals (not providing safety equipment or giving instructions of where to stand and what not to touch) --- Not having first aid equipment available --- not having a list of Emergency number to call Not understanding the type materials to avoid heating or melting down with out proper protection --- Not having an understanding of hardened steel properties (shattering) --- Un-safe sharpening Jigs --- leaving tools in the sun --- not inspecting hoses, cables, or rope --- Not inspecting gauges --- Storing and using propane in an enclosed area --- That is off the top of my head! [steve sells] things we may not think about including, acids can make fumes and toxins from woods like Cocobolo and bone and Ivory and shells, become airborn when grinding and polishing, getting into out lungs. Pine is annoying, some of our handle material can kill us. TED don't you suggest a check list of start up, and finish tasks to help the noob, abd old timer stay safe? like a fast sweep before starting, removes leaves, etc, , checking fire extinguisher is still accessible, flue is not blocked... [Ted T] Most I have talked with did not take it serious. It would be nice to have an orginized list, I think! [steve sells] 10:26 pm: a drill key is NOT in the chuck? Too many of us, meself included, take our safety for granted like if they have a 5 # ABC wghere is it located, and how long since YOU checked if its good ? [Ted T] What you just said about the drill key in the chuck don't mean anything Unless it happens to you! Then YOU WILL NEVER FORGET IT! [Tinker2] think to prevent

Strange making a statement of same out come, when as you already stated you have not done swords, but some that have posted have. Start with small blade, using real steels, and work your way up to larger blades. While it may be fun to use mild steel, it does nothing to train you for making a real sword. But if all you want is to have fun, that's fine too. Else listening to those that have done it may have a better chance of getting you there.

maybe I was incorrect when I assumed since he said he was using a "reciprocating saw from Lowes" that was all he had, guess I should have asked what other options he had.

you may find that clinker break needs a few holes to allow more air to pass. Welcome to I Forge Iron

Good luck cutting with that. May I suggest trying a hot chisel ?

what kind of saw/blade do you have? it is dull ?

ok Sounds good to me, Shop safety it is !! eye protection, both particulate and light waves; ear and other body protection like feet and fingers; Buffers, Grinders, saw's; acid and alkaline baths as well as chemicals in the air, from grinding toxic things like cocobolo, antler, etc. and finishes.;

Welcome to I Forge Iron. If you go to your control panel and post your location, you may find a smith near you, the world is a big place. I have little trouble HT larger blades, and have helped others in the past, but depending on where you are shipping may be a killer.

why not? its actually faster BUT gentler on the steel from less stress caused by the gasses.

You are correct, one black to power (add an on/off switch here if desired), other to neutral, Green with yellow is ground. IBEW 305 master electrician.

Very nice john. be sure and post the finished blade.

I don't know about assigning bias, but export laws and taxes can be a pain. That maybe the real reason they don't ship there. So far I have had few out of country orders. When I did get my first order from OZ, I did check into the legal issues. If a foreign order ever causes me any grief, I wont ship there again either. I am not anti foreign, but I am going to complain about anyone that wrongfully takes from those that work to earn a thing, and to defend those that have had it taken from them.

that one problem, with using (not always so) common names, rather than standard designations. Spring steel is not 'A' steel, its a term for a family of steel with like properties.Likewise tool steel is not 'A' steel but another family of steels. Both these groups do have over lapping members. As for your softer sword, that may be only because ii was treated with his batch of swords. The temps were set for his steel, and may not have been correct temps for hardening and/or tempering temps for that steel you used. It may be fine for swords IF you identify the correct temps.

Alot ??? I am not sure which to model you refer, but: my B3 is direct drive, not pulley's; wheels mounded to a vertical cast plate, not a bar frame; spring loaded tension arms... uses 2x66 to 2x78inch long belts... But I guess they are both grinders :D

let see Basic equipment is only a hammer to hit the metal with, something to get it hot, and some backing thing to hit against, all the rest are nice, but not needed. Buy a copy of the Wayne Goddard book "the $50 knife shop" $9.95 at amazon.com It is exactly what the title says, how to get and use a running working knife shop and spending less than $50. to get you started: Hammer: I do not advise a nailing hammer as the face is small and too hard. $10 or less can get you a usable 2# or 3# forging hammer at a hardware store, but at a garage sale its normally $1. Most use an anvil: But this does not have to be a brand new store bought item. This can be a chunk form the scrap yard, you don't even need to put a horn if you are doing blades. A large flat like a I beam, or square block works, and scrap yards charge less than anvil makers. Getting metal hot can be at the simplest a hole in the ground with a pipe to put air into it to get the fuel hotter. IN the book , you will see that many have build a one brick forge, by cutting a hole through the center of a large fire brick, then using a 1 pound propane torch, to shoot fire through a small hole coming through the side. Making a small gas forge. So far your cost is now $30 or less and you are ready to hammer away, as you sell blades, use that money to buy more toys like the rest of us. Welcome to the community of I Forge Iron. Be sure to join us Friday at 10pm EST for the live Knife chat, in our forum.

One problem with your name is that I will get confused now when people call for you but at least you have a number. Welcome to I Forge Iron, there is a lot of information about many areas here. Make yourself at home.

I would thin out the 1084 first. But its ok as you suggested, to double up the 15N20 also. As to layer count its personal preference, and the pattern you are trying to get. While I personally like higher layer counts of 400 to 600, the lower count blades of 70 to 100 layers, seem to sell first.

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