unkle spike

Members
  • Content Count

    673
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About unkle spike

  • Rank
    Curmudgeon in Training

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://sites.google.com/site/silvermoonforge/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Powell, TN

Converted

  • Location
    Powell TN
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, computers
  • Occupation
    IT

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Excellent Demo Dave. One thing I have learned since showing you, once you have the "arms" at 90 degrees, you can stick the cross arms down in a slightly open vice and with a short bend down the gap will open so you can hook it on the anvil edge. There are many people who you show things to and they claim they came up with it, not true in the case of Dave. Nice to get credit for showing him something. In return I learned the quick way to do a "heart hook". I drill mine to make them quicker at demo's, but with Dave's and most peoples quick punching skills, that step would be pretty quick. I generally start my demo on this by saying "a good blacksmith would split this whole thing out with a chisel" (pause) "but I am not THAT good"....gets a chuckle from the crowd. Thanks Dave, keep up the good work.
  2. Have not seen Chris in a while, not sure if he is still forging, all I ever see from him is pics of vehicles and girls....always a bad sign.
  3. I saw that one too Don, either they are complete junk, one a while back minus the horn. Or they put a coat of wax on them and want a mint for them.
  4. I have seen far more 110v welders for sale second hand than welders that actually are suited to our type of work. My point was that if you bought a 110v flux cored HF welder, it would be inadequate and you would eventually sell it to get something more suited to your needs. A tool that does not work is just taking space, and I would sell it in a heartbeat. I don't have any children of my own, so I can't speak as to the selling price of them. :huh:
  5. I debated welders with myself for about 8 months.... I ended up with a Hobart 180 220v machine, and bit the bullet and bought the gas bottle right away. In my opinion flux core has it's place, but once you get the shielding gas, change the polarity and weld with true MIG you will wonder why you would want to flux core. I have only had my welder trip once for thermal overload in 7 years. For the types of things you describe, tacking, and general use, my Hobart will do all I need. Now they make the 187 amp with 7 amperage settings, and the 210 amp with 7 settings. The initial investment getting what you truly needs far outweighs the frustration of having to sell the old one (at a loss), and buy the new one. Now keep in mind I am a hobbyist, and my machine does not see full time use like some of the users here. And as someone here stated, "with the proper metal prep". 75% of a good weld is preparing the joint to weld it.
  6. Judging by the style of the feet, looks Mousehole to me, early mousehole without the pritchel hole. Of course most look mousehole to me. The feet on a mousehole had that angle that ran all the way down, like in the picture of mine.
  7. I have one, the blower and the legs come off and fit in the box, I have this for a winter project this year, refurbing it. My legs are round, and the blower clamps with a bolt & handle combination.
  8. I uses ribbed metal roofing in the area surrounding my forge, ceiling also. After sustained long forge sessions, I can put my hand on the metal, it is still that cool. Leave plenty of space around the forge. I chose not to insulate, as East TN is temperate. You can see the metal surround in the pictures.
  9. I am in the Knoxville Area, feel free to contact me at [email protected] I am the secretary of the local Knoxville group and may be able to help. Take care, Jeff Phillips
  10. Some Guy named Ntech did a demo, it is posted on Anvilfire website, that is the proportions I use.
  11. I wear a Engineers cap much like my Grandpa Phillips wore in his shop, I can't tell if his was striped or not, there may be stripes under a bunch of dirt. The attached photo was from around 1940. Julius Scott x sml.bmp
  12. I bought by dimension. I bought a 60 inch by 3/8" leaf spring. I cut two 15 inch sections for the top and bottom leaves, and used the 30" for the main spring. I bought mine at a local semi truck and trailer place. It had 4 or 6 inches of arch which was of course divided in half when I cut it in half. I want to say I paid around 60 bucks for it new.
  13. Tennessee is a big state, where in TN are you located?
  14. I agree with the above, in order to be taken seriously. I see business names all the time that confuse me, what is is exactly that they sell or do? ie. Jan's Creations (what does she or he create? If I would patronize this person, I need to know what they sell) Johns Construction and Custom Cabinet Emporium (too long and drawn out to remember, especially if it is listed on the web that way, if he had that on the side of a truck, you could not read fast enough to catch it all) Jim's Bait Tackle, Transmission Repair, and Music Rental (man pick one thing and stick to it, don't know where night crawlers would end up) Using FAR too fancy of type fonts on signs. They are hard to read, and in the case of Jim's above would be pretty small when you got all of it on the sign. I think simple, memorable, is the way to go. Silvermoon Forge works for me, silvermoonforge(at)yahoo.com is about the most I would expect anyone to remember for an email address.
  15. I use Shade 5 welder glasses with side shields, they work well at preventing eye burn, and of course flying bits. In forge welding you also have flying flux to consider, and this should temper your own personal decision on what to use. The first glasses in the list on the link you provided would be MY personal choice. You may however need to make adjustments in your shop lighting so your immediate work area is bright enough so that you can see your work when it is out of the fire.