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Steve Sells

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Everything posted by Steve Sells

  1. many terms are listed in BP0078
  2. one nice thing about 3,4,5 is that we can not always reach the diagonal, due to reach, height, blockages from other structure, power lines, etc. Its so nice to have options. Thanks for the reminder.
  3. Muratic when bought from pool supplies is 30% Hydrochloric acid in a water base. so 50/50 is 15% solution of Hydrochloric. That does seem a bit strong. I prefer the 1/2 vinegar and water solution, slower is safer, and less plating effect from electrolysis.
  4. edge however you desire, Nice work John.
  5. ok, I declare that a good knife, its official, your path to the dark side has begun ....:cool:
  6. What did this testing cover? what was the measurement of IR light entering the eyes? As Dr JPH can attest, and as already covered in another thread, a normal welders lens is not the best choice for forge welding. When dark glasses are worn the eyes dilate and therefore allow in even more IR light than no shades would have. This can allow more burning to the retnas of the eyes. IR filtering is a good thing to think about, Dydidium or Rose1 is what my Dr told me to get for smithing. Check with your eye doctor and see, before damage occurs.
  7. When you use a resource like waki-pedia, one must remember that anyone can post there, so we have to verify other places.
  8. Incorrect. Pattern welding dates back much longer than that. There are many viking blades from 900CE and earlier with beautiful patterns.. As for damascus: the true damascus blades are more properly called Wootz, a crucible steel of a higher than expected carbon and carbide formers. the raw ore was presumed to be mined from India, it first came to the attention of crusaders in the region of damascus, hence the name stuck.
  9. card board, natural rope are both good for testing edge holding ability. I use a round rod to test edge flex/return. as well as Rockwell field testing files.
  10. I forge weld much hotter, but that also increases scale formation, and grain growth.
  11. Farmer gal, Please do not allow your family to be robbed by this Highwayman at 200. ANY usable anvil is $2 a pound at least. the PW is a name brand, condition can alter, but $4 per Pound is not unheard of.
  12. I don't know what to say, top of the line there, I really like the flowing feeling you gave to this form.
  13. 1800F down to 1300F is plenty hot for Forging, you can run cooler with simple 10XX
  14. good start. Your distal taper looks good, shape has smooth transitions. but lets see the polish. I wanna see the cutting power, and shine then I will comment more
  15. Is that your version of a "sword hammer" woody ? careful that's copyright by Sam... I can't see how a 10# chunk of grader blade welded to a handle is a sword, but I got my pop corn, and waiting for the movie.:cool:
  16. the Science says you are incorrect. A steel sword cannot get harder than a diamond, no where close. But I would love to see your Video, let us know when you finish editing it. :rolleyes:
  17. from Knife Chat Jan 16, 2009 [m_brothers] blade warping -> straightening? [markb] Will the edge burn in an oven electric controlled temp? [Finnr] I leave the edges about the thickness of a dime when hardening [brucegodlesky] warping?? normalize normalize normalize [steve sells] most the time by leaving a little extra thick at edge we can avoid burning [steve sells] thin sections will heat faster than thick [steve sells] they also loose heat faster and can cause a failure in the hardening precoss from that too [m_brothers] same here art, about a dime, i didnt call it a dime, i called it about 1/16" [brucegodlesky] Keep the blade moving back and forth in the forge [steve sells] most warping for beginners is from using the hot blade to move the coal, or hitting lumps with a rake while the blade is hot in fire. [steve sells] tell beginners all the time watch the blade when its hot it will move as ya hit it may not think about it while its covered by the coals when you hot the coals on top it, then it bangs the steel underneath too [m_brothers] i mean after quench [Finnr] have to have even heating [steve sells] or shaking it too hard and fast inthe quench and hitting the side too don't worry about edge quenching at first, dip it tip first into the oil and move gently even heat, normalizing before the heat treat, after the grinding [m_brothers] i mean i quench vertically, but I have a little bit of warping along edge, what can i do to even it out? [brucegodlesky] sounds like uneven edge [steve sells] when HT with 1095 many use 1500 - 1550F for a harden temperature. We have to get that temp to below 900F in less than 0.8 seconds to make it harden, BUT it doesn't actually get stiff until its about 500 F or lower. So between thats 900 F and 500 F temps we can still straighten a little with out messing up the blade or its heat treating process we started [brucegodlesky] long as you're wearing glove s:-) [steve sells] yes bruce, but I can't imagine anyone hardening in oil with out gloves, more than once anyway [Finnr] flash ain't fun! [brucegodlesky] sometimes I forget [m_brothers] i've done it without gloves, just used likes 3ft tongs, lol [brucegodlesky] sometimes I go a long time without a warp, other times they seem to breed [Ted T] How deep is the hardening (penetration) when hardening, and then while drawing to desired temp! [steve sells] hardening is totally dependant on 4 things, One is the steel used, another is grain size, the temps and quench [Fionnbharr (finn:-)] If I am not mistaken I have hardened a 2 handed sword without gloves, but I might have been wearing them... [steve sells] a 10xx series is shallow hardening steel, and anything with chrome in it will harden most the time all the way through [brucegodlesky] V and Mn also, right Steve? [steve sells] small grains, always preferred in blades may keep the hardening depth shallower than with larger grain sizes [steve sells] there are also other additions like Vanadium and WTUNgston that also assist in grains size remaining small, and assist in hardening [steve sells] MNH to a point makes it "medium hardening: as I can say it will make deep hardening, but these all work together [steve sells] Yes bruce [markb] aus forging [steve sells] all US steel have Mn in them we have no choice unless we make out own [LDW] What thickness of the cutting edge would be too thick to have the cutting edge not hardened with a 10 series steel after grinding, I am talking about an approximate thickness. I am assuming 1/16" would be fine, but I do not know for sure. [steve sells] 1/16 is fine remember the de-carb zone when heating before the hardening its thin, but we want enough extra thickness to be able to remove that too [brucegodlesky] I think with shallow hardening steels, a knife blade still hardens thru and thru [Finnr] on salvaged steel it's better to go a bit thick for the first blade from a batch . You can make it thinner but not thicker [brucegodlesky] it's when you start fooling with thick profiles , shallow vs deep shows up [steve sells] yup To thin and even if ya don't burn the edge you will still have soft spots due to de-carbonization
  18. From Knife chat Jan 16,2009 [LDW] Is there a proper side to mark your knife? Whether its a touchmark or stencil. I have seen them on either side, but was wondering if there was a standard. [steve sells] totally I warranty is MY NAME, so I wont repair unless I am told to. I would prefer to replace it [markb] They should get your best work. Same as with any job coming out of the shop [steve sells] I do SLSELLS on one side with 1/16 stamp, and the other with Fenris Forge the forge name I have in 1/16 and 1/8 depending blade size so I use both actually [Finnr] on antler handles I scrimshaw my touch on the butt [steve sells] IF my son ever gets back in forge he will have his name, as well as fenris forge, when he is good enough: OK I stamp forge name on anything from my shop that I warranty. Also the maker name is there too on knife or camp set tools its as much a part of my advertising as the web site we all put a lot of work into our projects, we SHOULD put our names on it if we are ashamed to place our names, then it should NOT leave the shop [Finnr] everyone has an individual style, but that isn't advertising to people who don't know your style [markb] I would like to know how to get a good clean block letter stamp like HENRY as example [steve sells] I bought my stamps. using standard fonts is fairly cheap I paid 80 for my 3 stamps using THEIR font, if I wanted something else, it would have been about $120 each [m_brothers] from where, i've been looking for a place to get a John Martin Stamp Fromt [Finnr] for a name buying is the easiest my bindrune is simple enough that I made my own stamp [brucegodlesky] yep [markb] Stamp cold? [Finnr] Hot [markb] Could you post pic on forum? [steve sells] I stamp HOT red to black heat on final normalizing cycle before hardening [m_brothers] how do you polish up the name then? [steve sells] I though of a bind rune, but choose std english due to my non ren-fiar type work [Finnr] I'm going to do a new stamp as soon a I can work in the forge again I could do a BP while I make it [steve sells] you don't john, the name is inset deep into the steel I polish over the stamp maybe using a tooth brush to clean up later [Finnr] OK! I'll shoot pics [m_brothers] any place i could order from? [markb] Any etchers here? [LDW] I got a quote the other day for 135 dollars [steve sells] do a fast search around places before ya have one made because it would be a shame if you made one and found another maker using one that looks close [LDW] I etch [brucegodlesky] a name stamp? Buckeye Engraving [Finnr] only to bring up the pattern [markb] After finial finish? Steve sells] I got mine from CER Metal & Marking Corporation 2224 Industrial Drive Suite C, Highland,IN, 46322 (219)924-9710 they have a web site somewhere. [steve sells] chemical stamping most likely should be done when finished [Finnr] etch your name after mark? is that the question? [LDW] I built one of those etching machines that was on the web where you buy everything from radio shack. Now I want a stamp. [markb] etch would be that last thing? [Finnr] I would say so [markb] Press for stamp? [brucegodlesky] I do it by hand but it's tricky [steve sells] I didn't bother with a etch because of the pattern welded damascus I do it wouldn't show well, so got hot stamps made [Finnr] I hammer, but am thinking of using an arbor press for the new stamp [brucegodlesky] in the process op building a press [markb] Would a press be used hot or cold or ether [brucegodlesky] I would say either [Finnr] I like working hot [steve sells] I have seen makers use an engraver to make their marks, they just sign them [brucegodlesky] I have a jeweler do some for me. dirt cheap [markb] i have individual letter stamps a jig for these, yours not mine? [Finnr] with my handwriting a stamp is a better idea [brucegodlesky] usually 3-5 bucks apiece [brucegodlesky] I had one and he took ill, supposed to be back at it soon, probably with higher prices too [LDW] Batson did a demo on engraving at our conference a couple years ago. He made it look easy. [m_brothers] for John Martin, should it a line or John second line martin [Finnr] I want to learn, but there are only so many things a person can do [steve sells] your call, buy remember the larger/longer a stamp the harder to use it on small items [Fionnbharr (finn:-)] All complex things are a series of simple things combined in a specific process [markb] simple isn't always easy [brucegodlesky] I use 2 stamps. One is BIRDOG the other FORGE. The first for stock removal blades and both for forged
  19. From Knife chat. Jan 16, 2009 [m_brothers] could I weld a crack in the top of his blade, spine area, it's all the way through, if I grind it out and the weld, and whatever, is it still usable? knife will be preheated to 300F for welding then will be put back in oven at 300 for 15 minutes, then allowed to cool down slowly you can try but most welds will always show and it may never talk a beating as before. Many times its best to remake the blade. Any other opinions on this ? I am not concerned about it showing to be honest [Finnr] there is the chance too that you have micro cracking that dosen't show [m_brothers] & what rod should I use?? im thinking s-e-3 rod [Finnr] What is the blade made of to start with John? [steve sells] One major problem about repairing breaks, Ask WHY did it break in the first place? as as Finnr pointed out more cracks you don't see. a big problem anytime a "Found steel" is used also [Finnr] I'd just forge a new one, not worth the effort to repair a blade that may or may not stand up I've tossed lots that showed cracking [m_brothers] ok, well ill talk to him, he's calling the shots, im just the welder [steve sells] I never repair my blades, I replace them, but I have welded another persons blade, as use as a wall hanger ONLY [m_brothers] its from the quench, the oil was a bit cold [markb] What about tang to blade welds? [Finnr] toss it [steve sells] I will not warranty nor allow a blade to be used as anything except decoration,if its not solid. I weld tangs, but not a butt weld. I over lap and forge weld it solid, then re heat treat [Finnr] I do that , I will silver solder threaded stock on some hidden tang blades [steve sells] try to keep the integrity of the steel a knife in use gets a lot of pressure on the blade if there is any problem in th steel it will carry over into the use as more problems [markb] Would mig welded tang to blade be OK [steve sells] I tack with mig, then forge weld, but a good welder should not have to forge weld it also [brucegodlesky] works for me with preheat and post heat [steve sells] I prefer to use forge welding for all joints in the blades, just my preference [markb] Good welder thats my problem [Finnr] that's why I forge weld I feel safer that way [steve sells] I am a electrician not a real welder, I just slept at holiday inn express a few times [markb] I play a welder on tv [steve sells] a good welder, can make the weldment as strong or stronger than the patent metal,. I am not one of those so I forge weld as I am good at that [steve sells] but I do know many that can. [Finnr] the main thing to me is if a customer is paying good money they should get a good knife
  20. What is wrong with using the real terms, they are simple, and accurate. anything else may only confuse issues.
  21. how to do WHAT would be a good start, what would you like to know/do ? Welcome to IFI
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