Steve Sells

copper/brass/Nickel-silver

news paper works, used to use it a lot, still do on occasion. Lately I grab a few chunk from the BBQ and light the charcoal with the propane torch head. it lights fast, and while it burning pile the leftover coal/coke from the previous forge session. and start cranking.

If you are serious about learning swords, then "the $50 knife shop, by Wayne Goddard" is one of the best for starting out with out getting a major bank loan. Even the price of the book is a good deal at $9.95 at Amazon, last I looked.

I am in Fort Wayne, I can always use tongs, and electric blower. I have apprentices that need most of their own things still, such as a certain 16 year old boy. SO I can safely say most any shop equipment you have to sell. WILL find a home through IFI

welcome to the I Forge Iron site.

Welcome, many people here of many facets of this hobby/trade/passion called smithing. you have good company here.

After translating your post; I see that you would be ashamed (and in another post state "insulted") that I explain swords work differently than knives, but you have no shame to confuse a sword with chisels, hammers, etc, and then post here before doing any research on your own part, expecting outlandish things with no facts nor reference outside of video games or television shows? I am having a hard time deciding if this is for real or you are just trolling. I have tried to give you a break. If you want to run with the big boys and make a real sword, at least try to learn a few things on your own (books, internet, or try to search this site in previous posts) and you may understand why you have been getting so much flack for your proposals.

Is that a typo or did you really make it one half of a US standard inch thick? :o

I may be REMISS, but isn't it time for a reply from jimmy SEALE :)

the low temp salts are NOT sodium, some are calcium based. much safer that NaCl.

most people do not use table salt because of this, calcium is much less hazardous, plus there are commercial mixes available, see browning or the Ellis website for low temp salts.

There are various ways to scientificaly examine blades. In repeatable methods, that are commonly used around the world. Place a cold blade, after heat treatment in a vice, and see how far it can be bent over before failure, most quality blades will go over 90 degrees with little cracking. The point where a blade fails is measurable in degrees to compare to different methods and materials. a Rockwell tester: impacts the blade with a known item at a known pressure to compare hardness. A round bar (5/8 inch is fine) placed in a vice, cutting edge is pressed sideways into the bar until we see a deformation of the cutting edge, then released. hopefully the deformed steel will return to place. showing resiliency. The problem with Hitting a rock, is not all rocks are the same, and How much force was used? a human arm can swing with varying degrees of force. The idea of testing, is to have a test that can be repeated over and over again, by most anyone, and getting the exact same results with the exact same item, therefore being able to Honestly compare non-exact items in a meaningful way.

lol woody that's why I like you :)

Nothing wrong with wanting to make a blade, but a sword is not a thing you can just jump in and make the first day out. there is a lot more behind swords than just shaping the blade too. because a sword is much more than just a large knife, there are vibration dynamics that have to be accounted for in the construction as well as balance. and we have not even talked about what metal to use or how to heat treat it. If swords are your goal, I suggest that you begin by learning about the general forging that is common to all forms of iron work. As attempting to start with a sword is like trying to win a NASCAR race before you have a drivers license. There are many fine books and teachers on the subject, as well as a sword section in the forum, which perhaps is where you should have posted this to begin. Read all you can before jumping in, and you will have a better chance of getting where you wish to be.

NO not really

Aggressive flux as well as an Oxygen-free environment is a must to forge weld SS, either argon injection to the gasser or many use "cans" to keep air from the metals. Not for beginners. Good luck

NO paper masks wont stop anything but small particulates. They will do nothing for gasses. Leave the zink alone, and you will live longer. PLEASE

Welcome to I Forge Iron, great place to learn as well as make friends.

very nice, you are giving me ideas about my 4 burner....

as many know, this isn't the first time I screwed up a name and most likely wont be the last The point is one can go ahead and try, but it was stated he did not want to risk losing his motor, anytime we do things to a motor that it was not designed for, we take the risk of failure. Many times a cheap dinmmer lasts many years on a motor, my local IBA has a dimmer on a old Vac motor. it is still working fine. But most will fail.

its like telling a kid to look for traffic before crossing the street, they tell ya they never look, and never been hit by a car, they are fine... its kinda the same thing, just less painful if they are wrong. :cool:

cool give it a try and report back sounds like fun !

I am not sure there is a steel with 12% Mn. but a sanmai as you propose can and is made with mild outer portions.

I don't see much of anything at that link, except a request for adding to it. Also Wiki is not a primary reference for anything. When anyone 2 through 120 yrs old can post with out any credentials, or verification of fact. Its a nice place to get fast info, but without backup of real knowledge and verifiable facts, its just a chalkboard most anyone can write on. so to your second link: Even tho I would take the side of a metallurgist over a dictionary, at least Websters is a credible source :)