jmccustomknives

Most of the forklift tanks I deal with are liquid withdrawal only. Do not use them on your forge, you don't want to make the short list for a "Thousand Ways to Die". Sell them or trade for the proper cylinders.

A little cheat is to use a random orbital sander. But in the end, for me it's usually a go back and forth between hand and machine until I get close to what I want.

Well, as far as the last part I've never heard such but it is a huge no no to use any oil or oil based products on any high pressure gasses. I've seen many regulators that have blown apart from as little as a spider that crawled off in it. It's always oxygen that is reactive in that manner. Acetylene is another animal all together. Now as far as changing from ac to pr and back technically it works(I've done it) but since propane will break down rubber it could ruin the diaphragm in the acetylene regulator and hoses. The ac reg is also designed not to exceed 15psi while propane can be (and at times must be) ran higher. If you go to Victor Technologies website you'll find that info, someone here may already have a link.

As far as it goes, the paint will burn off pretty fast. You'll get more burns from the "fireflies", so wear your PPE (personal protective equipment) you know, safety glasses, gloves and long sleeved fire retardant shirt (you'll thank me later). Make sure there's no flammable materials nearby. Have fun!

Idk, I wear gloves for everything. Got to keep the digits intact. Kinda hard to play the guitar without them. :rolleyes: I've got cut resistant gloves that fit real tight for grinding, drivers style gloves for forge work and of course welding gloves for, well, welding. B)

My shop's under a huge oak, doesn't help a lot but you are either going to be hot or not smithing at all. Being from deep east Texas, I'm used to the heat. If you can run an extension cord and put a fan on you that will help.

I like the little knife. As for the Simmons files, in my experience they have been all over the place. None made an exceptional knives. In my experience original Black Diamonds make the best, then Nicholson and Hellers.

I always use the rule, 20lbs of anvil for every lb of hammer. You'll need a sledge for the heavy work. My 10lb sledge still moves the 200lb anvil, all be it slightly,but over time it turns to inches.

Also, try using a lighter hammer. A lot of these kind of problems can be caused by using too heavy of a hammer. I had elbow issues from it, well the other part was an ASO that was like working on a pillow so I had to really put the steam to it. :angry: For my wooden handles I'll take a wood rasp and rough up the handle to better the grip.

gloves :huh:

We've carried the chop. It should be noted I stopped stocking them, not because of quality but more due to demographics. Our customer base is made up mostly of industrial companies. Since their employees don't take care of equipment there is no benefit to buying the higher quality saws. I have no experience with the mitered saw, I'll ask around. Perhaps one of our other locations carries or has sold them.

Been selling those saws for a long time, well they stay on the shelf. They seem quality, about half the price of the Morse. The trick to those saws is, as you probably know, they aren't for heat treated materials and you can't be abusive with them. The positive, if taken care of, is the blades last 7-10 times longer (but cost that much more). While we carry Makita I have never sold that kind of tool from them. I don't think you'll be dissabpointed with this brand, there blades (sold a lot more of those) hold up as well as the more expensive Morse.

Sawyers anvil. Great for knifemaking. Wouldn't mind having that one in my shop.

The cracks in/near corners are stress riser fractures. These were caused by improper casting/cooling. Like the others, I think these will keep moving until it fails. They are still shallow though, a good welder might be able to salvage it.

Sweet score! B)

It's the internet, where if it on there is gotta be the truth. :rolleyes: I watch those vids from time to time, the experienced smiths can spot a poser from a mile away. A forge, hammer and ASO a smith doesn't make. Just because someone acts like they're doing it right doesn't mean they actually are. <_< And yes, I'm trying to move from poser status myself. Been at it for 7 years. ^_^

I bought a Diamondback Knifemakers forge. There were a few of reasons, one it was light enough to carry for demonstrations. It used off the shelf brick sizes so i wouldn't have to work hard at relining the forge. I reaches forge welding temps and can function on a 20lb propane tank. The biggest draw back is the internal size. It is very small and can't do anything much larger than a knife. That being said, having a coal forge handy to handle the odd pieces and wrought (it doesn't really get hot enough to work wrought) complements the gas forge.

That's a hoss of a Ulu. I'd go ahead and pin it. When disimilar metals contact weird things happen. It could work it's way loose in a few years.

I know as of at least a couple of years ago, the Brazilian files where through hardened. One got dropped in my store and broke. It still wouldn't cut as good as a rusty old Black Diamond. Our mill files still say "Made in USA". I'd read somewhere that Nicholson used 1095, or something similar. The ones I've played with forged and heat treated similar too.

I really prefer safety glasses with an indoor/outdoor tint. Ouside in full sun a darker tint in needed. Shade three is when you really intend on staring into the forge. B)

Think of it this way, if the pits in the face are no deeper than your hammer marks then there is no problem.

Very nice pattern, been wanting to try that.

That's a fine one there, not abused. Like Ivan I think the tip of the horn has been modified. In my best Yoda voice, "Beat with a hammer for 50 years you've been, better will you look? Hmm?" ;) Really, I've got three anvils, yours is just about as good as my best. (it's 70+)

My wife thinks I run a scrap yard out back. :rolleyes: Every blacksmith since the dawn of the art has had a "scrap" pile that they sourced. They would even go so far as weld nails together to make larger things.

Yikes! :o That one looks ancient, possibly colonial. Can't wait for the experts to chime in. Bet it's over 200 years old. Give it a place of honor and make beautiful things on it. ;)