jmccustomknives

I've got a set of cheap nail set punches for this. ;)

Invest in a good auto darkening helmut. That will help more than you can imagine. Years ago I had an older (70+) come in my store wanting a shade 7 lens for arc welding because he couldn't see. After speaking with him I suggested the auto. A few weeks later he came back in. He said he couldn't believe the difference that hood made. Second, get some quality rods. Lincoln Excalibur is a very popular rod among welders due to the ease of starting and maintaining the arc. If you don't mind dropping the extra coin, the Messer 80Tac was our old "farmers" rod because even old shaky hands could weld up a pretty bead. Don't overlook the 7014 either.

Wow. awesome blade. I'd love to see how that came together.

I feel your pain. Congrats on the new anvil. I does make a difference on how you feel at the end of the day. B)

For me, I love taking junk and making something that some one will be proud to own and pass down. But most of all, to leave a legacy for my children and their children for generations to come.

You know, I had some large band saw that wouldn't anneal for nothing. That was the only way to do it. Another thing I'll do is take a section of leaf spring, heat it up then heat the steel to be annealed and bury them.

I've found that new bits that are on the cheap side will have this problem. The steel you are working with is supposed to be properly annealed to begin with, I expect it from Admiral Steel (it's where I get my steel). When I'm having this issue I'll resharpen my bits, that usually does the trick. Even the cheap bits cut better when I do this.

Probably 4130 or similar alloy. When welded, if the proper procedures aren't followed the weld will crack and break. I've had guys weld this stuff then turn around and the weld cracks loudly.

It's a good start. And to do it with that little piece of rail. ;)

Like you I've not seen any historical relics of this style. I think the reason is there is none. For most of history steel was rare and expensive, for too valuable to waste drawing out into a handle or making a full tang when a narrow tang with a wooden handle was much simpler and far cheaper. Maybe some one here can provide evidence that they were made, I'd like to see them.

Water on the anvil will scare the heck out of you if you aren't expecting it. :o

Grant is correct about the manual fuel pump, sounds like your problem. You may also need to adjust the valves if it has never been done.

This show is a total fraud. Several months ago, on another message board someone posted that they were making a show to be aired on Discovery where they were making swords. He was looking for "customers" to do a video chat and order a sword. It would be just for show, the "customer" was just for show there was no monetary transations. I watched, for 35min which I will never get back. I knew something was wrong during the intro when he was holding one of his "swords" that had a re-bar handle. I wanted to give them the benefit of the doubt and stuck around to see what he was using to make his "blades". I turned it off at AR plate. :huh: **facepalm** :blink: With all the good smith's out there, many on this very site, to put that hack on is a travesty. If I tune in to a show on making swords, I want to see it done right. <_<

First, the "Big Giant Swords" is a joke. I have a knot on my forhead from the facepalm. :blink: First, a few months back on another message board a guy was soliciting "customers" to do the show. It was just a gimmick. The guy is a hack and doesn't deserve the title "Blade maker". Now, show a sword. This is my only attempt at a sword. I made this for a preacher who also does tours to Israel. The handle is olive from Israel. I wanted to do a gladius because this is the sword that the Bible is referencing. It was forged from 1095.

Like he said, better to use is as a base for something better. If you did work on it as an anvil we could probably hear you across the pond. :unsure:

I cannot add anything to what DSW has said, he knows his machines, other than esab is now owned by the victor group and a lot of that groups equipment is being consolidated. Esab is even discontinuing the Purox and Oxweld torch lines and as of this time I haven't heard about the other machines but I'm sure that's coming. Go with Miller or Lincoln, both have a great reputation and stand by their product. And buy from a local welding supplier who can be there if you have issues because if you do have problems or need help that's where you'll be sent.

:blink: But that hammer, :huh: . I gotta get me one of those. :ph34r: :rolleyes:

Harris is a good torch, nice score. Looks like a propane rig to begin with. Get a small rose bud for your heating needs. Make sure your hoses say they are grade "T". Should be already.

Nice work. I've been to the Big Thicket. Most would get lost just a few feet in.

Admiral steel list their nickle sheets as 201. I believe there are limits to how many folds and such but for what you are doing I don't think that will be an issue. Looking forward to seeing what you make.

Nickle/mild steel would be my choice although one of many.

Spanky, the only reason people in Alabama are better drivers in the snow is because they can't go anywhere. Lol, remember last years 2 inches that shut us down for 2 days. :lol: Took me 45 minutes to drive a stretch that usually takes less than 2 minutes. :wacko: Frosty, what's your address. I've got cold weather to return. :P

You'll never hear me complaining about working in the heat. I was happy with 99F over the summer, didn't even know it was that hot until I saw the thermo. Keep the cold. Dang that global warming, yaw guys need to start driving your big block SUV's please. :ph34r:

With what limited information we have there, I'd venture that they are O-1. Sterrett makes a most excellent O-1 for knives. You'll have to do a little testing to see if it is good steel for a knife. It could very well be A-2 or D-2.

Sounds like either he doesn't have a clue or has his terminology mixed up. Either way I'd question if he knew what he was doing. I had a gentleman purchase a file knife from me a few years ago. He also brought a knife he'd bought from a guy who sounded like the maker "knew" what he was doing when he made it because it wouldn't hold an edge. That brought knife was made from a saw blade and had never been heat treated, it was junk. The file knife he purchased, it cleaned 3 hogs and never had to hit a stone. After a few years he came back and purchased a few more. Like Thomas, my method is to grind the file hard being extremely careful not to over heat (any heat color at all). Give it a 425F temper and soft back draw. It should be noted, not all files are the same. I throw away or pass on many for being inferior.