jmccustomknives

So, if we are going to be term nazi's What would we call a line between hardened and unhardened steels? I can't call it a hammon can I? It has no design nor forethought in patterning. I had not intended to get that as it has never happened before. And if I recall, Wayne Goddard uses the term "temper line". I could be wrong, I'll dig through that book again.

Since nobody knew, or cared how or why I was getting a temper line I think I figured it out. It was procedural. I have a pan of "Goddard's goo" that I had recently added a little Parks 50 to the mix. This makes it flame up awful, so when the edge is cool I'd immediately submerge. I believe the back was still at temperature when the submersion happened giving a line. Now that I know I can play with it further.

Oh, knifemaking can be competitive. You have an object that can be tested against standards. It has to be made withing a time limit. Personally, I'd love to be on that show. Why? That's the way I work. On the second episode, the two guys grabbed the bearings. I knew they were out before it started. That steel is far too fickle to be worked that fast, not to mention the heat treat. The guy who used the crow bar, he was out too as that steel isn't suitable for a knife. That just left the file, in the junk steel knife world, for a knife within the requirements it was the best steel choice (given it wasn't case hardened). I would have grabbed the cable, but I'm crazy that way. lol. I'll agree with territorial in the production value isn't that good. I hope it gets better and the challenges get more interesting.

Dang cuz, your up in the great NW. You want hot, come visit my shop. 98F, with a gas forge going and swinging a 10lb sledge. How long would you last? lol. Turned out pretty good on the pattern. I'm really surprised it welded up, it's been my experience that many band saw type blade will not weld together.

As far as it goes, yes stock removal is where we all tend to start. Even when forging a blade some, if not quite a bit of stock removal takes place.

First. Stop what you are doing. You are not ready for a large blade. You will be wasting your time and effort. First learn how to grind small blades. Learn how to heat treat the steel. It looks easy, but there are many pitfalls and it takes experience to do it. A blade that long is extremely difficult. Now as for how long it would take, on average a 6" blade will take me at least 30 min to grind. After heat treat another hour or so to finish it out. That simple little blade can easily have 10 hours to make. A sword will take much longer.

....you have to stop hammerin' cause the trailers fell off the blocks again. ...local sherrifs have to pay you a visit when scrap thefts are reported. ...the bed of your pickup has coal, scrap and other unknown articles. ....you don't know if the floor of your shop is concrete or dirt as it hasn't been seen in years. ...neighbors think that yellow green smoke means your cooking meth. I could do this all night

Thanks, its a stabilized lace redwood. Both the guard and pommel are blued cable Damascus.

Let me start by saying I've been working with cable for many years. My supplier only carries extra IPS cable. A couple of weeks ago a gentleman brought me some new left overs (7/8"). I made a test skinner and it did real well so I forged up a 2pc Bowie. I did an edge quench with a 400F temper as this seems to do best on the cable. As I was cleaning it up I notices something, a temper line. I've tried to get these before with cable and never have, even doing a clay back. The problem, the extra IPS would invert but would never show a line. This stuff did. When I etched it the thing really popped like none I've had. Usually the watering isn't bold. The first pic is the knife with the new cable, the last pic is one from the extra IPS as it is typical patterning I get. The guy was told by his customer that this cable was the strongest they could get. I've not gotten any extra extra IPS, think this could be some?

I like the idea of using the copper wire. I'd like to see it done with copper collars too.

I think it's an across the board thing. The Tuscaloosa forge hasn't met in years. I've sent out feelers to see if anyone is interested in restarting them. None. The only response I've gotten from my emails was a "not interested". This attitude is reflected in the big meeting in the fall as well as Batsons, there isn't the attendance there once was. I'd like to see some interest but right now it just isn't happening.

Most of the time these cylinders aren't filled on site anyway. Usually the supplier will trade with you. I really depends on the supplier and how cantankerous they want to be. I will usually trade out unless there is a problem with the cylinder.

It has been many years since the Tuscaloosa Forge has had a meeting. I have been looking to see if anyone is interested in firing back up the forge for those meetings. I have sent out emails to the members in my area, as yet no one has replied. If you are interested in having meetings again let me know.

​I hate to break it to you, but you do realize that these reality TV shows aren't real. On a site specifically for knifemakers a producer posted looking for "customers/collectors" for a show about a guy making giant swords. They were to speak to him via video chat. No money would change hands, they wouldn't get the "sword". I had forgotten about that posting until I saw the show. I watched the first 30 minutes and wished I had them back. He isn't a sword maker, nor a smith. He is, at best a metal artist. No bladesmith would ever use AR plate for anything they wanted to sell. I did see a posting from the same producer looking for bladesmiths a while back. And recently someone mentioned a show dealing with smiths and building to a challenge. I'll watch that.

Quite a lovely piece, some body is going to be happy with that one.

Working steel is like working silly putty. It moves and flows. So if you want to do a leaf with round stock there are steps you take in the early stages that when you finally flatten it out the steel flows into the shape of the leaf rather than fighting with it. It takes practice and experience to work out your pre-forms. I can't speak for the other smiths here, but I tend to start off with a mental image of the item and move in reverse seeing in my mind how the metal moved to get there. Forging a Clip point Bowie is a very simple way since you take advantage of the way the steel moves under the hammer to form the point. I'm sure there's a lot of WIPs here that show your basic preforms. I've got a few posted on my site. One thing, don't expect to get your forgings perfect. There are very few who can do that and it takes. Always expect to leave yourself a little grind tolerance, it will shrink with experience.

You might work on pre-forms. This will help in making the finished item come out smoother. I'm referring mainly to the attempt at the double edge. I noticed the fishmouth on the double edge. This style of blade is a challenge to forge just in keeping things symmetrical. On your next attempt, try working the tip first. Remove any fishmouth before final shaping. This will make forging easier and clean up will go faster. I like the form of the bottom of the three. It has a nice flow. Keep it up!

Interesting first forging.

I agree Charles, I like hand tools. But I'm also impatient, lol. I guess in the end it's best to start the slots with the wood squared off. Frosty, usually if it dances for me it's because I threw it across the shop out of frustration.

Nice hawk Chris. That's exactly how I intend to do it except that area between the top wrap and handle wrap will be carved and a figure head on the top. I was afraid to burn it in as I didn't know how it might effect the wood for carving purposes.

I started with 1/8 bits then tried 3/8 bits, they would just deflect just a little, but when it's through 1 1/2" a degree here and a degree there grows. I'll be sure and post some pics, didn't think that was important to the conversation. As far as sharp bits go, I was taught long ago how to sharpen my own bits. What gave me the idea to pursue this was a little project I did for a primitive hunter. It got me to thinking about an art piece and since I know a fellow who carves walking sticks I spoke with him about doing it. Imagine this hawk, full wood handle and carvings running down it. I might post pics of it when it's done. Oh, the guy who ordered the one pictured wanted to decorate it himself.

Thanks for the tips. I ended up starting with a square piece and slotting that then rounding things out. The roto zip might be the ticket if I ever revisit this style. While the sides of the piece were fairly flat the drill bit would drift to one side or the other making it impossible to keep things strait. I ended up scrapping that piece and starting over.

I'm taking part in a collaborative hawk with an artist that is a woodcarver. I intend on slotting the hawk head about 1 1/2" leaving the top 3" for a carving. I had thought I could just drill a line but in my experimental tries the oval shape is causing issues with keeping the backside strait. I do have a drill press with a vice but it doesn't seem to help. This is intended to be more of an art piece than a user. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your kind words Jed. With knives, pictures can make a good knife look meh or make it pop. Take a lot of photo's, change the angle. That pic was taken in a group of four from the same angle, it just turned out different. Frosty, thanks for the reminder on the ivory. Very good work guys.

I'm like the kid from the cartoon "Dexter's Lab". My latest is always my favorite. Lol. This one however was a challenge. 7" 80 layer waterfall pattern, stabilized mammoth tooth scales and wrought iron guard/pommel. Working that mammoth was nerve racking. Since I don't have any power equipment this was done with hammers ranging from 2-16lbs. Jed, that 16lber will wear you out. :blink: