jmccustomknives

Usually that will happen when you are putting more pressure at the handle (that's where you are holding it from). Like anything it will take practice to get the feel right so that doesn't happen.

If the plate is just welded around the edges then the majority of the face will be dead. Plus the grader blade is high carbon which means that the welder will need to follow proper preheat/post heat procedures or the weld will fail. The better way would be to surface with a hard facing rod. The cheapest rods would be a nicromang since this type will machine down but work hardens nicely.

I agree with David, pass on that. A piece of RR iron would be more useful.

Sounds like you've got it figured out. The soft back draw method will give the most control.

I'm the wrong person to ask, I have the attention span of a gold fish. <_< Heat treat it and demonstrate the soft back draw style of tempering using the torch. Then instruct them if they'd like to put it in their home oven or toaster oven if they have one in their shop (yeah, some of us do) if they'd like to extend the temper. This way they get the see first hand the way the steel reacts to the tempering colors.

If you are wanting to cut up to 8" diameter tubing then a band saw is the way to go. They do make saws for this procedure. If it was 4" or less then a chop saw wood do the trick.

Since you are doing a Hi/Low billet decarborization will be an issue. On your next attempt, if you have an old file substitute them for the mild steel. You'll end up with a better billet.

As far as the anvils go, I've never used one of those. At 70lbs I'd break it. :o As far as hammers go, it's a taste thing. Some like that style some don't. To put it most in a very simplistic way, non-magnetic is the point where the carbon molecules start moving around in the iron. At that point they move into the iron molecules and is quenched fast enough get trapped causing the steel to get hard.

It's called art. Art inspires emotion. It inspired you to obtain it. The artist did his job. ;)

I use quite a bit of old Wrought Iron found metal detecting. As you would expect, it is a mess. You have to wire brush the stuff off. Forging will remove the rest. To re-smelt would take a lot of heat, only those guys set up to do that kind of stuff would be able to do that.

Cool piece! Someone will be proud to take it home. B)

200lb Fisher. Dated 1942, military surplus. Rebound 85%. This is my main anvil. It spoiled me. (my neighbors love it too, but don't know it). My second is a 126lb Kohlswa. Cast steel. Rebound 75%. Rings like a bell. Bought it for a demo anvil. Works very well, too loud for neighborhood work. Lastly is a 1911 Mouse Hole. 92lbs. Wrought/ steel top. Rebound 65%. I bought this one for a demo anvil as it is lighter and has that gnarly look that speaks of history.

Don't take them wrong. Quite often, like every day, some one get on here and talks about making a sword. There is a huge learning curve to making long blades. It isn't as simple as you might think. There is proper forge theory. Heat treating and fit/finish. Al told, I've been making knives for 7 years and really haven't tried since I got a little experience under my belt. Like you I started thinking about making a sword and quickly learned I'm not ready. Go for it, but do your homework. Those books along with Goddards are a very good resource. Have fun with it!

Yeah, you might want to anchor that down. <_<

Since copper melts somewhere around 1900F you probably wouldn't have any problems other than where the forge flame might come into contact. Personally, I'd sell or save (for another use) the copper and find a suitable steel shell.

That's odd, lol <_< . Your right, not all are bimetal. If they were HSS or some other alloy like it they would have had cobalt (at least the ones I sell do) which would keep them from forge welding or at best make it very difficult. Regardless of carbon content, decarb will be an issue. Be sure to do a file test after the quench, an hour @ 350 should give it the stress relief without loosing hardness. As always, test it. B)

Being that sawzall blades are bimetal and are at best .7% carbon, along with the mild steel (.18%C +,-) and given the forge time you'll probably need to do a brine quench. Decarb will really take it's toll on that blade.

Howdy from 'bama. I believe there are a lot of good smiths in your area, a bunch on here. A little time spent with an experienced smith is worth it's weight in burnt steel.

If you are on ebay, you're looking in the wrong place. :o A decent anvil goes for a lot there, plus shipping. :wacko: but the good news is there are good deals out there too. You just have to find them, or they find you. :rolleyes:

Miller's website, as well as Lincolns site both have great instructionals. If you buy an entry level welder like a Millermatic 211 it will come with a "how to DVD". Really, basic welding isn't that hard. I believe there's also a "Welding 101" here on IFI.

Your wife tells you to come in or "you'll give yourself a heat stroke" :blink:

I had a opossum take up residence under my radial arm saw. Went to plug something in behind the saw, heard something hiss then saw it's beady little eyes and pointy teeth sticking up out of the table inches from my hand. :blink: I had to evict him :angry: It was the 4 cent cure. B)

I've never found an easy way to do this. If you are working with wood and you have a large handle you might try "burning" the handle in. I generally try to do a pilot hole and two smaller holes then work them together. If working with smaller sections a dremmel is great. Sectioning and stacking makes things go easier but generally should be done for the bolt through style.

I've found that any oils on the blade left from quenching will cause the colors to be off. Clean the oil of. I also use one of those cookie sheets that are doubled to keep from burning the bottoms. It helps.

If it passes the rebound test then are the dents something to worry about? If they are deeper than the hammer marks you will leave in your work then they may be something to be concerned about, but most of the time they are not. I feel your pain about anvils, in some parts of the States they are very common, in others (like mine) they are much harder to find. The funny thing is, once you get your first others start showing up. :rolleyes: