Chuck in Ms

Welcome to the craft. The above post says it all.

Hey I just found this, his name on here is SteveC . I have been talking with him and a couple of others because I have a wooden box that contained a complete forge outfit, that I am hunting pieces for. I will let him know about this thread.

Yes Sir, I like it. My next anvil will sit on one just like it if you don't mind. Thank you

Three legs will solve your problem on the concrete floor. I am not so sure about stability while using a twisting fork. I do not like fastening to the floor because I move my anvils according to the size of the job. Not so much with the main one but I have moved it a couple of times. I use a stand like yours for demos and have no problem outside just dropping it into the dirt once or twice. ( I left the pads off for this purpose. ) I agree with the caulk idea if you are sure you will never break it apart for transport. Mine is just sitting in the angle iron, a couple of wraps of chain will cut out the ring. It has never tried to come out but has slide around during twisting. I just move to the vice when I over load it that way. Good luck

Like the above post said just find a blacksmith group near you. I give $40 per hundred lbs and can get it in either Covington La or Lumberton Ms for that price. That seems high because I got it for $25 when I started.

I also use the Lucas gear oil. I don't know where you are but in south Ms it doesn't get cold enough to bother anything and the thicker oil slows the leaks. Check inside some of those shafts had leather bushings to act as seals.

Nice anvil Joe, Here is two cents worth. Use 15 degrees for the angle on those legs instead of that long angle drawn (i know its not to scale). Even at 15 the legs will get in the way of your feet sometimes but anything less will cause problems if you ever try twisting with a fork in the hardy hole. You want a tool rack so go ahead and make it when you build the stand. You could make it removable with either bolts or better yet hook on. This will keep it portable, and if the rack doesn't work it is easy to pull and modify or just set aside. If you don't do it now it will always be on that list of things waiting on you to get a Round Tuit. The shelf....It will give you a place to pile stuff right? It will also hit your shin more than you might think, it will be smaller than you might think (especially at 15 degrees) and that stuff will fall off/out at exactly the wrong time more than you might think. I offer these thoughts as help because I built my demo stand similar to the one you have drawn and use it very often. Wish I had put that tool rack and blacksmith helper on it back then. Chuck

Thank you Mr David, I am proud to be a part of that event. I agree that Ed will have a great time there and I hope to get to meet you there this year. Chuck

Sounds good, if you need any help setting up your shop once you get here let me know, I work in New Orleans so it wouldn't be a problem to stop by one evening and help drag heavy stuff around.

Welcome Sir, come visit us at Gulf Coast Blacksmith Association. We meet now on the 4th Saturday but check the web site before you drive up as there is some noise about changing to Sundays. To bad you can't make march, that's when we do the iron pour at Fire in the Swamp here in Picayune. You can see that event on You Tube. Look me up when you get here and I will introduce you to some good local smiths. Chuck Averett

I like the "tap", I started doing it for the rest reasons mentioned above because of cramps in my fore arm. I soon found that the crowds at demos seem to draw to it (also mentioned earlier). After reading all of the above I have decided that the best thing to do is go back down to the forge.

Welcome Ed, this is a great place for information, it seems one answer leads to another question so try and start forging as soon as you can. Also find a local blacksmith association in your area and go visit. You will find that more can be learned at a single meeting than reading for a month or two. Also people in our craft are always very helpful to those willing to learn. Post some of your projects when you can and enjoy the art of Blacksmithing Sir.

Sounds like a well thought out class. Great project and lots of different techniques. If he is indeed good with a hammer move on to a simple coat hook. Include widening (fish tail top?) , small scroll on the hook and a punched hole. I always punch the hole last on these because if I can punch it I know I can fasten it. Chuck

Sounds like a well thought out class. Great project and lots of different techniques. If he is indeed good with a hammer move on to a simple coat hook. Include widening (fish tail top?) , small scroll on the hook and a punched hole. I always punch the hole last on these because if I can punch it I know I can fasten it. Chuck

Real clean work and great design. A lot if different forge techniques all in one projects. Keep up the traditional methods. Chuck

The problem you are going to have is there are as many answers to the questions you have ask as there are blacksmith who are willing to reply. Mr Ted has the right approach for you. I burned coal in my backyard for a few years with really no results other than some bent and burnt metal to show for it. The man I was buying coal from tried to get me to come to one of his blacksmith meetings all that time. I finally went after I saw one of their demonstrations and one year later I was invited to demo at that same show. The truth is I learned more in twelve one day meetings than I did in four or five years trying by myself. I hope you get in contact with someone soon and help us keep this craft growing. Best of luck to you, Chuck

I used the kindling method at home for a long time, but when I started doing demos a fellow smith taught me a good newspaper way. Wad up four or five sheets then flatten it back out and roll it from a corner into a ball leaving a few inches at the bottom like a stalk. It looks like a mushroom. Light the bottom of the stalk and put it down on the grate. A little air and pull your fuel of choice all around, leaving the small hole at the top. If you use leftover breeze/coke this method will work very fast. Then just shape your fire with green coal, dampen it and go to work. The original wadding up and flattening just provides air space, and as I learned those bargain papers are free at kwik stops when you forget to bring you secret firewood concoction. Chuck

I have made hinges like that, although much smaller, for small wooden boxes. I never knew they had a name. The punch looks good thanks for the photos and the name of the hinge. Chuck

It's funny that I found this topic. Today I burnt my hand on the tail of my 175#er after about three hours of hard work. It surprised me that the heat had traveled so far back since I had been upsetting stock over the main body section for the last half hour or so. I have doubts that a person could over heat it simply because of the air cooling that takes place during heating.

Hey Dave, I hope you take thirty minutes to go visit the Simmons shop. You will find the people there to be very nice and telling a little different story than some you may have read about Mr Simmons. Also take a good book on Charleston iron work to help guide you, it will save lots of time. There are a few available at the market and the shop. I don't know where you are staying but be mindful that parking is almost non existent in the historic district. Beyond the parking issue everything will be very enjoyable for you. Have fun! Chuck

Nice forge, I have a similar one although its elongated. The leg brace is the same as yours but at the top it has square headed set screws where yours looks like through bolts. Check the fit there, if the legs are smaller than the casting no amount of tightening will help, and as mentioned above it could crack. Mine is very stable even though the handle is very worn. Good luck.

Mr Thomas is probably right about that ratcheting blower set up, good catch sir. I use one for demos and can tell you they get a lot of attention from the crowd. There are some good pictures on this site of some free standing ones. They do make a little rattling sound as the teeth coast back but other than that I have no complaints. Let us know what you come up with.

Looks like a good start, keep us up to date with the photos.