Chuck in Ms

I did what you are talking about and would not recommend it at all. However I know the feeling so get a few sticks each of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 then one each 5/8, 3/4, and one inch. All square stock just because it has the most character. That will eat up that $100 and then some. I probably make more gifts out of the 1/4 and 3/8 than any other. What I find to be better is pick a new project and get enough material to make 15 or 20 of them and work on just that until you work out of material. This let's you get very proficient on the project and builds some inventory for demos or other events. That's my two cents. Chuck

Hey Mr Pugh, I am hoping for a good editorial about this week!

Nothing better than forging in the rain, put it inside and keep working.

Welcome, and I look forward to learning from your post

Very cool, that will keep the cold drinks off the face. I hate that!

Welcome to the craft. Is that the same White House as the one close to Linden, my home town?

Hey do you remember my ratcheting forge from the Gulf Coast meeting? Not much smoke if you saw any? Other than lighting a fire with green coal you shouldn't have constant smoke all day. That green smoke can cause a cough as well as sore thorat and even head aches before the serious problems start. Heat moves smoke up as mentioned above, and so does expansion. Fe-Wood has a good ratio of small opening to larger diameter pipe. The shroud in your photo is common and should work for you if you go from that small pipe to something larger. If you can, bring that forge to the next meeting and let's fire it up and see what's going on. Chuck

HWHII, Thanks! And no I had the help of my (then) eight year old son.:) I will shoot you a message with some details.

Hey Jim, it was cold here in south Mississippi today too! It never even got to 70 :).

I think you have a good idea there. Find that blacksmith associations next meeting and ask if you can solicit your offer there. Would you be interested in visiting demonstrators as maybe a way to get this started? I am guessing this will be seasonal like most of the other outdoor attractions around there? The historic site will bring the people so if you could make small stuff ( nails, drive hooks, whatever) you will still get the ooh's and aah's from most travelers. As your skills increase so will your sales if that's where you are headed here. Some will not agree with this but I know the area well, the old buildings and cemeteries are what bring the people out there so a fair demonstrator would be a bonus to most. Learn the history of your shop and surrounding area well and collect some items made during its heyday. Be honest with people after all you will not be a master smith but a student of the craft which is where we all are I think. So find someone or do it yourself, either way is great. Be true to the history and honest with the visitors. And be aware there is a working forge in Cades Cove that they fire up from time to time. Good Luck and I might see you this fall.

That's going to look great! I have never thought about leaving the post exposed. It will defiantly give it a unique look. Can't wait to see the next pictures. Good work.

Welcome to IFI, you are at the right place for information. Have fun learning.

Great looking shop, if you get a chance this weekend come on down to Convention for the joint GCBA/LAMA meeting directions and time are on GCBA website. Saturday demo Touchmarks followed by a pot luck lunch. Again great shop, you will enjoy having it.

Mr Jim, I better understand your question now. You must have a what is commonly referred to as a rivet forge or something like it. The 20" pipe would make a nice forge but you might want to consider adding a fire pot to the setup. Look up tuyere pot from a site that sells to Blacksmiths, (there are a few but I don't know if I can name them on this site), to see the design or you may want to buy one. The fire pot will add depth to your fire which you need for heavier welding. Your blower is only going to make intense heat in an area the size of the fire pot no matter the size of the forge top. If your fire has been "getting out" , that is burning throughout your current forge, you are burning fuel you don't have to. I seldom have a fire much larger than a softball. For knives just 3 or 4 inches wide and across the grate 6 or 8 inches. When you start those gun barrels a larger rectangle forge may be better suited for the job. 20" round or 3' X 5' rectangle, the fire only needs to be a little larger than the spot you are heating in most cases. Deeper is better to reduce scale and water will save coal. Also your forge can be repaired so don't scrap it please.

Mr Dan, I have an old lever operated forge with a blower similar to yours. I had to make a belt for it. You can either pull the shaft to install it or lace it up in place. I sewed it together on the pulley with no problems. Carve small grooves on the pulley side of the leather to keep the thread flat. It bolts on under the forge pan kinda upside-down. It is not designed for an electric motor as it doesn't run on bearings, just babbit. You could try to put a motor on it just reduce the speed way down. Also that leather belt can have an incredible amount of slack in it and it will work just fine. Good luck with it.

Welcome sir, this is the perfect place to start you on your way. Don't forget about the search box at the top of the page. Many of your questions can be answered in great detail just by reading old threads. If you can't find what you are looking for find the best spot and post your question. Have fun!

Hey there Jason. Middle Tennessee you say I am from Linden although life has transfered me to Mississippi. Welcome to IFI, there should be lots of threads and pictures of the kind of things you are wanting to do. Have you got a forge set up yet? Chuck Averett

I don't know if there is a correct answer to this question but that 20"D is going to be too big to be practical. I have seen many fire pots made from discarded oxygen bottles. Something like 10" X 14" seems to be about a typical size. Good luck with your project.

It looks very good and user friendly. Since you specifically asked here's a thought. How about adding a blacksmith's helper. Either the friction locked bar type or a robust swing out and adjustable height one? I made one that sits on the floor and use it a lot but have been thinking about adding a permanently mounted one.

Well Sir, I am sorry to hear that. About every argument I have to modify it has been addressed so I will look forward to seeing your next forge build.

Mr Kurgan, I wish I could travel over there and help you build this shop. Last Saturday five of us from Fire in the Swamp got together and built a 16' X 24' pole building and today me and my two sons built a 10' X 14' addition on a shop for a neighbor. I think I am anticipating you build more than I did my own. This will not be a hard build for you, just pull some string lines check them for square and plant some poles. The pole placement should be as close as possible to perfect as you can get but......if they are out a little its ok, cut the beams to the correct length and pull the top of the poles to fit the beams. If the beams get out of square secure one side with bracing and slowly pull the other side with a chain hoist (checking often) until its squared up. It is surprising how easy the beams will "twist" to square. Once it is true the rest is just normal building procedures. This is not the only way and it may not be the best way but it will work and it is very easy. Really this is just my attempt to get you started with whatever method you choose. Looking back I should have sent this one in a personnel message as this is no benefit to the group discussion. All I can say is sorry folks but this takes to long to re-type on a phone.

Welcome, you found the right site! Now find yourself a local association and start having fun.

Yeah, Grizzer I am an Appalachian American myself, though transplanted to Mississippi. I did like the cruck, but lost on the rest. Mr Kurgan please tell us about these interesting items.

Your forge build is fine, once the core of your fire is hot try to build that dome like Mr Glenn suggested. Make the outside wet and pat it down a little with the back of your shovel. It will surprise you how much a little water can help a fire. Keep it damp while you work, a fireball over a foot high is not necessary to heat a section of half inch square bar. At demos I seldom let a fire get much bigger than a softball. That is for safety and fuel consumption. So size that fire to the work at hand and turn the blower off when the metal is out of the fire. Good luck to you

Seems like I saw this a little late. I like Mr Vaughn's price line and fully agree with doc it was made to work. So does it have a new home?