Chuck in Ms

A good shop indeed. Now lets see the first item you forge under it.

Real nice work. I am going to try one of those wrapped handels one of these days.

Dutmac, what do you mean by "lids top and bottom" ? Are you building a side draft or as ThorsHammer82 suggest, a hood? The 12 inch pipe six to eight inches above your fire pot will pull just fine. No hood needed as long as it extends above the roof line. This sounds too close to the fire, but just how thick is the iron you are heating? If its a side draft you are going for there is another element you will need. A throat opening just above the top of your opening. This will require some math but will provide positive results. 1. Opening at fire box in square inches 2. Throat opening reduced by 20% just above 3. Chimneny opening slightly larger than first opening. These two options will work. I have had both with no problems. I hope this helps some and you get to forgeing soon. Chuck

Real nice forge. I am about to build one for a class at the end of this month. Mine will not be so deep but lined with clay from our local creek. I am almost finished with the box bellows that will feed it. It is interesting that yours doesn't appear to be lined with anything. Looks like the fire would slowly burn down to the lumber. Or am I missing something. ? Great set up all the way around.

Mr Truley, thank you for all that you share with us. Mr Jim, your replies are always helpful and the post to keep us guessing are a lot of fun.

I have to agree with M L Martin. Machine shops I visit have drops saved from big jobs long ago. They never want much for them, even gave me a 3"X7"X10" piece that is now a striking anvil. So find a good drop somewhere, weld some legs on and start forging some straight blades.

Drew, can I add option #4: find some upcoming blacksmith events and visit their tailgate section. Even if they don't have the anvil you want someone will know where one might be. In your area there should be plenty of events in all directions on the books. Here in south Mississippi $300 will get you a fine anvil at most gatherings. I notice you have some brand names in mind, I don't know much about that, but just a few years back I gave $160 for a 175lbs anvil in near perfect condition. It doesn't have any markings on it but has been a good one. Good luck to you Chuck

It's good to have you here. Sounds like you have a good start and have found a great site for info. Chuck

Trying not to say this is so wrong........what's done is done. What's done can be undone to some extent. I would probably bid a few dollars on it if the money was going to something good. Then I don't know what I would do with it.

Mr. Dale, your request is very specific. Why not design and build it. Shouldn't cost too much, it can be exactly what you need and you can finish it to any level you want to look good in the garage. Top loading, front opening, wheels or whatever. Cool part, you can forge all the hardware in the process.

Mr David Einhorn, that was remarkable. Mr Todd, its not everyday you get a gift like this. Not only the hammer but an unselfish act of kindness. How cool is IFI and its members?

I built a wood container with a gate that pours into a bucket like a grain shoot. It holds about 1000lbs and is 40 to 50 feet away from my shop. I also keep 100 pounds in a barrel next to the shop. No problems with either one so far.

Taylor, there is a shortage of information here. Search this site to find several photos of the items you mentioned. Determined from the post what makes the item good or not so good. You will see prices paid on a lot of the threads to help you from over paying. A lot of times "family heirlooms" become very valuable to the family members. Be careful here, they are worth a certain amount to the family but to you they are only worth as much as it would take to purchase them elsewhere. There is something to be said for finding all the tools in one place, I would be willing to pay a little more as a set but very little. None of the items you mentioned are hard to find. If these tools are in good working order this is about what I would have to pay. Anvil $150-$300 (more for some name brands), Post-vise $40-$125 depending on size, Tongs $10-$20 more for wrought iron just for the iron, Hammers $5-$25 even for big sledge hammers. That is fair prices in south Mississippi for useable tools to me. The best thing you could do is join a blacksmith group near you and gather info and/or tools there.

I recently bought the salt fork block. Like you mentioned I just decided I needed one. Have used it to make some rounding hammers. Last weekend I used it a lot at a demo. Spoons, half round handels, duplicate hooks, shaping leaf key chains. I am having fun just learning how to use it. As mentioned above it has no holes. If it would hold hardy tools I might leave the anvil at home for some demos. Prior to that purchase I made a small one from a piece of 2"X4"X6" mild steel. Milled some half rounds up to one inch and drilled some holes in it. That didn't ever do more than be a heavy pritchel plate for me really. Overall I am glad I got mine and may find another one with all the holes in it.

I wish I had found this before Mr Alec.S did. Now I can only add wine bottle holder.

Hey Todd, glad to hear that you are getting well. Congratulations on the museum job it sounds great. As far as the chisel set, that is a good starter set. That brand is carried by local hardware stores here so you might be able to pick them up quicker than trying to order them, at a store near you. I suggest removing the paint prior to letting the kids see them. Not to intentionally mislead but for over all effect. It is a historical museum after all. For the hammer I agree with Mr Stephen above. Find a feed store type place that sells horse shoes and they will probably have a rounding hammer. You can do everything you need for a demo with it. It seems like we all have a favorite and the cross pein is more often assiocated with blacksmith work so you might want to go that route on second thought. Which ever you choose go with the wood handle if you can, again for the look. As to "where to start is that a question? If it is send me a PM and I will help as much as I can.

Ok its up there but it is out of place for whatever reason

Don't know what happened to it. I think its there now

This is a quick Fluer De Lis that I use a lot for this type work. Not the best photo, but made in a few minutes. This one done cold out of 1/8 by 1/2 flat bar. The scrolls are 1/4 round so it stands out a little. I folded the center piece in half, flatten the tip about a inch then shape the bell around the horn on the anvil. The ends are brought together down through the center. The two sides are one piece as well, fold it in half, flatten, form the diamond around square stock then scroll the ends out. This one is brazed on the back side then filed flat. Same idea could be used on much bigger stock in the forge. I know this is way off the normal split and forge method but another way of getting the effect. For the size you mentioned it looks good.

I was wondering when someone was going to mention the strength of the floor. All those bricks add weight very fast. My forge took about 1100 if I remember correct. Plus mortar, filler and some steel. No worries however, cut the floor out, pour a good concrete foundation under the building and lay the brick up from there. As for fire hazard not a lot more than any other time. If you drop a hot piece of iron pick it up. Like any other shop keep unnecessary flammable materials well away. Fire extinguisher and/or water close by. Then enjoy your forge.

I could have used a nice table like that at a demo today. Good work!

Welcome Chris, tongs seem to be tough for a lot of folks. There is plenty to see and read about them on this site. However you are going about it my favorite way, back to the forge. Chuck

Rhettbarnhart, those are some good looking hammers. You should be proud to own them. Frosty, you are right on about the demo being a show and the better we interact with the public the more people we can draw. Also like the handle trick a lot.

Real easy, real light. 18" disk blade 3" tubing little flat plate welded to a collar that slips over the tube. Whole thing breaks down if need be. Works good at demos

That's a cool hacksaw! Was that price a typo? I think you got your moneys worth.