David Gaddis

I was until now unknowledgable about the number of shades of green I possessed! Envy over-runs me! Carry on!

Daniel! I gonna come down there a bring you a mess of those Misiisiisiiisiisppppi SKKKKEEEEETTTT--OOOOORRRRRZZZZZ to invade your shop. The kind that can do anything to a big ole fat boy! But do hang in there friend. I will straighten RT out if you need me to. Carry on!

Those look pretty nice. When comparred to Brians' hammer tongs though the angles are a little different. Having not used yours but having used Brian's hammer tongs I am inclined to think that an easy modification to your tools could make your job easier. The first angle near the pivot is about 70 degrees and the final angle about 90 degrees going into the rolled end. But I must say that your set looks much better than mine. I used 5160 steel about 9/16. Someone came into the shop and needed them for another project...and well...you know how that story goes. Congrats and Carry on

Boy, those nose things bring back a lot of memories, good and bad. I guess you would call those nose tongs ! Carry on

How did you mount the little glass accents?

Now that is some kind of erector set...for sure!

If you moved to a nicer community you would not need to chain down your anvil. Now the thieves will steal your tongs! Or wife...

Looking at your pictures show the possible need for external supports. Consider two 4x6 treated posts being well supported by depth, concrete, and possible guy wires. Have chimney running between the two 4x6's with hangar straps. Those things wrap aroung the chimney with a squeezing action and have arms that reach out sideways to make the support connection. They should be available at a REAL air / heat supply house that handles sheet products. In the SOUTH where hurricanes and rain are more often occured this supported chimney may be your best solution. just run a side draft like those Hofi pictures and you should be set. Carry on

I had a plastic drum that needed a new life..put in 9 gallons vinegar and a bunch of water. Long shaft must be turned to comple the cleaning. Little cost...spare time...effective...large stuff fits. I work on a lot of other things than blacksmithing so the slo-go tank is good for me. If I am in a hurry then it is the wire brush and power device. Carry on

Wear those bearings out and then replace.I bet you they would outlive you in that situation. Most bearings are abused to death and not worn out from protected usage. So unless your blower is out of the rain and snow it quite well will be still operating when the kids sell it. Of course there are exception. Carry on

I acquired these things for a few dollars today. They are torsion bars from a Chev SIlvarado 4wd Without a caliper I guess the measurement to be approc 1 1/4 dia x 56 inch long. I am expecting them to be made from 5160 as they have a propensity to loose their torsional strength with abuse in 4wd vehicles. Anyone with more information about their true makeup is welcome to contribute. I gave $10 each to a friend who says they normally fetch a $25 fee per each. I plan on heating a suitable section to hot cut then anneal some for projects. One may be hammered and bent for a HD prybar. My problems may just be starting as how to heat treat just the section that is reshaped, such as a curve or a thinned prying element. Again input is welcome Carry on

Last weekend at Stan's hammer-in we used the big block that is made like a table height! Striking on top and bottom tools on hot 2 inch 4150 stock at that height was unforgiving. Way too tall and that made it very tiring to get a full good swing to the top tools. There has been a bunch of discussion on striking blocks and anvils so there are a lot of differing opinions floating around. If I was to use the block only ocassionally I would have it tall. But if I needed it to support a lot of real heavy striking It would be quite low, maybe so low as the person holding the top tools could be using a chair to sit in. Of course I have never been in that situation but I have had the opportunity to strike on one too tall. Carry on

I saw a table like this one and still another one too, both having the qualities you may like. Down in Baton Rouge Daniel has a 2 1/2 thick 6x10 table just sitting on metal posts...no welding at all and it does not move. Another has angle irons to make a trough to hold layout stuff etc that is welded slightly from beneath the table. Installed in this manner a square or beam clamp can still have access to the edge. The angle iron trough does not have to be out of very heavy material either. However it could be used to stiffen the table to reduce droop if the supports are too wide in spacing. Carry on

MOst champagne bottle I have seen are very dark green. So...if you use a little votive candle it will be like a flashlight in a cathouse...some of the light will escape through the bottom. BTW Stan I have introduced the same project to some of my friends down here. This weekend we will have more glass products to play with. And I am thinking about putting a recharge battery system inside one to hang on my fishing pier. Who knows...the fish may be able to find their way around with the new beacon. Carry on

A small hand held propane torch or plumber's torch will easily apply heat by you or from a novice. Have some of you next treatment available at the time and when near black hot , hold the temp awhile to allow a preburn of the beeswax then apply newest treatment to suit. Pretty easy for most...very easy for a BoyScout...almost nothing to it at all for an EAGLE SCOUT! Carry on Go SCOUTS!

Two hits will not correct a wrong hit! If you missed the piece on the first hit..STOP! Reposition Repair what is wrong Continue in the right direction Few people ever tell you what to look for when things go wrong, they just show the good end results. And have a good time doing it. When you do not enjoy..stop righ then.

Hey Bill It sure was nice to meet you guys from Wisconsin...and it was great to meet all those otherfolks too. Stan...you and your group made a wonderful experience a happening for me. Thanks for a warm fellowship.

Departing here in a few hours..to be there tonight if everything goes right See yall then Carry on

Most buildings require a complete air change of at least 6 times per hour...more with "funny" gases burning. Think about how many cubic feet in the building and air circulation...also air intake restrictions...they figure into the equation. In my part of the world we cannot afford an airconditioner large enough to combat the ambient heat PLUS the heat of the forge and work. We must have lots of available air with fans and openings. You must be lucky where you are. Carry on

Go make your hot cut from low C steel. after awhile you may decide to try high C for the hot cut. It will not take long to appreciate the high C hot cut as it will last somewhat longer with regular usage prior to re=sharpening. I am re-learning the same story right now since I just changed anvils. This evening I should be back with a high C hot cut. Carry on

Dang! What a good suggestion..

My son is a crew-chief instructor in the C-130J refueler for the Marines...lives in Arkansas. I am trying to make it there...Friday evening at earliest Carry on

I had a date once with the first one's sister...ONCE! carry on

Red Heads are anchors that really work. Drill the hole...blow out all the dust via a straw or air supply...insert the anchor...and drive it home spreading the rivit bottom into the concrete. ..Bolt the stand down..simple. Down side is the bolts are simi-permanent. To remove the stand remove the nuts but the studs are still in the floor. These same studs can easily be cut off with a grinder, torch, etc. BUt your stand will be there really nice. There is another really heavy-duty screw that can be inserted into a hole in the concrete and still removed leaving just the hole. I do not use them here because all my construction stuff is permanent. That insert screw can be found at specialty nut and bolt supply stores....not the big box stores. And it is pricey. The drilled hole is specific too. I stopped using lead shields / lead inserts years ago. They are made to barely keep a load from sideshifting and have very little other construction qualities than that. If I had them I would melt them into fishing weights. Carry on