David Gaddis

For working sheet metal...mounted into a Pexto base. You will see that name quite often in fleabay anvils

Yes I have used and am still using them. Fortunately for me that the destroyed edges are on opposite side for each anvil..so I can work near side on one and far side on the other. The larger anvil has a significant sway that the picture does not really well show. The sway is a bit like a roll. The only flat part is the tail. It has been ground previously all the way to the sides. Both anvils have a good feel to them. It is just the top is buggered up so badly.

I have cut a gozillion cables with one of those things. Place the base on something really hard like dragline tracks with cable inserted to cutoff location ...Then swing a good heavy sledge like you were 19 years old...soon it will be severed. Wrap wire around each end's location is good idea...right before placing into cutter. Some use duct tape.

WELL well well. There seems that some of the solution is coming into view. The term "snagging wheel" is what is used for a grinding situation that may be involving highly erratic impulses with the contact! What doe that mean? It is how rough you gouge on the material with that tool. This is not surfac e or tool roof type operation that I was somewhat experienced at before. And we are not talking about 2 ten-thousanths contact either. we are talking about heavy-duty grinding from the highs and lows in the buildup process. This is not pretty work, as I understand it. Most likely it will have a lot of serious streaks that will later be smoothed out by a flap-disc or other process such as a surface grinder. The surface grinder machine is a exact time consuming process that I will not be using...for many reasons

Well I am back now from a few days of travel. My intentions are to resurface the two anvils below. the 75 pounder has Vanadium stamped on the side and is quite lively but one edge is obliterated. The amount of sway through the top is not a problem. The 186 pound PW? is swayed, partial piece missing, one edge round as a cigar and table destroyed too. It is quite lively too. Using this anvil is problematic to locate a good edge and good surface at the same place. Whoever used this anvil certainly used the same spot repeatedly. I plan to re-level top while replacing the missing corner. The amount of sway in part is near 1/4 in on the worst side while about 1/8 on the best edge. Also, plans are for handheld angle grinder (large one) with cup stone to near level then HF and re=level and re-edge. I have been attempting to get a name brand and stone makeup criterial to accomplish the grinding. With access to a lot of equiptment I think the experience could be beneficial. However I do not want to do a lot of work and end up like some of the other postings that report a dud anvil. I can use wire or stick with a preference toward wire because of effeciency and a better weld puddle shape in buildup.

I tried to weld up a broken heart once...ONCE.... Much easier to pay the lawyer

Looks just the same situation as for me a few days earlier..except for it having been rather cold for us some of the time. If anyone has the time they could do them a favor to have some "one on one" instructions from Brian and Lyle. But be preparred" time goes very fast and there is a lot to learn. Carry on Lyle Wynn and Brian Brazeal.

This is all well and good but what I need is part numbers of the best grinder discs / types to use. We have used so-and-so discs but I do not think I want to tackle anything other than misc. electric welding grinds. Anyone who has put a grinder into HF whos what I am referring to. Just give a name and a number...then we can find the right destributor. I like my local welding supply man but he sell stuff off the wall. That means that he is not well experienced. Good sales representatives have moved away it seems.

If the rail did not bend then any amount of concrete would not be the problem when using a big pile driver....unless it had lots of rebar and very good concrete

I have two anvils that need some serious resurfacing. That means a lot of hard work..and a lot of hard surface to grind down to smooth. So far I have used a "x" brand disc on an anvil and it hardly touched the stuff. What I need is some real suggestions: Name brand; zirconia or alumina etc; stone or disc; grit grade; any info This may be far out but I will be removing a bunch of stuff, after flattening with buildup and surface treatment. Of course all information is appreciated All plans at this time are for 4.5 inch and 9 inch angle grinders...Milwaukee Name brand

bring some great big friends to load it...not in the back of the car...may have a flat and not be able to get the spare!

it is already sold

I recently built my own first forge too. But my firebox was about 13 plus inches long, 10 plus wide and fully 5 inches deep. It took a dumptruck load of coal to crank it up and then the fire was too deep so items were angled down into the heat to get them up to temperature. I shallowed the box ...a great move and now I am going to shrink the size a bit. After the last several days of using a good forge at Brian Brazeals I know what they are supposed to be like. DO NOT OVERLOOK the air control valve. IT is IMPERATIVE to have a fully good operating air valve...I know that now for sure. They do not coast so much but save so much in coal. My valve will be replaced tomorrow. Good luck on your forge too!

Did I overlook the refrigerator? Not too close to the forge please. Cold beer for hot evenings Ha!

Why not cut the leg off a litle on the vise on the other side? If it was shorter it may be a position to accomplish certain previously unthought of tasks. You would still have the full height vise in place.

It looks too Pretty to get dirty...put it on the desk and let others oogle over it like we are...congrats

I have something very similar...same weight and shape. The horn looks the same : quite triangular and very proportionately short. On mine the hardy is 1 1/4 and no pritchel, with the hardy in the same location. On mine the rebound is waaayyyy less than desirable. Mine also says 75kg 150. Mine is for sale. the face does indeed dent

ALL well noted Frosty. Most certain I am closer to the anvil market than you. At least there are a few anvils down here to look at as opposed to being up in ALaska. freight always comes into play, moreso to you up there. If I buy another anvil my wife is going to jail...after she kill me. But I will get one, a good one, even expensive, when the time and opportunity arises. But I still am not against the idea of doing something to the "dead" beater that I have. It seems like hitting into the dirt after banging on a good anvil. Yesterday I did some projects that took waaayyy more time than when using a good anvil. And my arm is weaker from the excess beating too.

You can buy another anvil with a beak on it...smaller one, cheaply enough . that may serve you well for that type of shaping when required. And thanks for being over there Marine! Thank You! Thank You! Thank YOU!

I expect to be using that same technology from you when there is time available...

I am looking for a dream I guess...down here there are few available. Those I have seen are small and beat to heck. Maybe going to a flat piece of 4150 etc and cut hardy hole and pritchel...then build a Brian-type triangled base..never look back. Who knows?

All this come from a mistake on my part. I bought an anvil from Mr. X, that seemed to be of an Chezk import. This was the story. But it is a nice size and in an area that is anvil poor. Without having all the prerequisite training on ANVILS 101, I thought a decent rebound to be ?% and the ring to be ?amount. It had both, I thought. After beating on it I pulled out my little anvil that I had never used anf the hammer just about hit me in the eye, and sounded like a bell! Could I improve my misstake anvil by hard facing via the "Gunther Method" and save something out of it? You cannot easily hide an anvil from the wife. I am not afraid of all the welding.

If the rebound of a anvil is a by-product of the hardness of the face, why is there such a hoop-la about an anvil's construction being cast iron base or steel? If cast iron is so bad could it be hard faced like some are and they become a quality piece to own? Is the anvil's ring a product of total hardness or face hardness?

Well. I got some coal last Sat after heving some one-on-one instruction by a leader in the Mississippi Forge Council...Mr. Jim Piggott. He spent quite a bit of time with me from starting coal fot the first time to forge welding. Of course there was lots of instruction about hammer and control, forge bends, tapers, scrolling and more. I had joined the Ms Forge Council on the last meeting a few weeks ago so getting my coal right after completing the forge was right on time. Ms Forge Council now boasts about 250 members I am told. If everyone is as nice as Jim Piggott then this should be a neat group to be involved with. I was also informed they (Ms Forge Council) has artisans in copper and bronze and glass and others things. Check 'em out. I came back home and fueled my forge as per instructions. That was Sat evening and this is Monday am...my arms feel like butter. Two years behind the desk has ruined me! Previously I had a lot of experience with heavy metal..trackhoes, backhoes, dozers, tractor and stuff... I even had experience from baby buggies to broken hearts!

Finally got my forge built this week..waiting on my coal instead of charcoal...hope to meet with Brian and Lyle to see and feel what it really means to create such a monster. The one I saw the other day was such an eye opener. And that is what I have been getting since getting into this project. HammerOn gang!