David Gaddis

An hour-glass handle form cannot come from a drift witha sharp corner, as that is the beginning for a stress crack. The proper shape as shown prior is created from a round tapered shaft, with a bit of flattening on two sides only! The other two side will be a nice rounded shape that is perfect for spreading that eye metal. The next time you make the penetration for the eye, review other threads on the proceedure. Basically it starts with a slimmer penetrator, with a well designed point, prior to going to a fatter, stronger penetrator. ALWAYS turn the piece to be penetrated 180 degrees after every few hits, or turn the penetrator 180 degrees. That turning motion helps AVERAGE out the possibility of mis-alignments. perhaps you could turn that slug into a flatter, although the hammer handle will be a little bit offset. ANyway tha handle in a flatter does not require much creative geometry. It would be a good use of that S2 slug you have. GOOD LUCK carry on

Put something on the back to keep tools or other items from being pushed out the rear. It does not need to be solid like a sheet of plywood, as a small board could work. Carry on

Brian...as usual you are right on target. In the past I wanted a heavier anvil. So maybe some would call it "anvil envy". Having met Brian and seeing what he does with an anvil quite a bit lighter than you would imagine, has taught me a properly installed instrument is nearly as good as a very large one! We have made several anvil stands in the past months for friends and still re-learn that a near vertical well supported anvil...fastened to the floor...is a proper method to build. The proof become evident when you make the wrong one and it bounces (vibrates) all over the floor. Even a simple stump mounted vertical is better than a wandering anvil. Many prefer the stump and I was like them, yet I discovered (was introduced to) the triangled anvil stand. Merry Christmas to all Carry on

When reading about old anvils...on one reporting source said that the newly forged anvil was quinched with the water from 3 water barrels (approx 50 gal each), applied one at a time through a 1 1/2 inch pipe directed at the working face. The shock that the water would have on the very hot metal was tremendous but not so great that it was destroying. And the amount of water only cooled the hot anvil some of the way, as the residual heat in the body would return throughout the anvil to make the required tempering. This is a process I have not seen in person but I hope to before I am totally useless. I did see a video the other day where a person cooled an anvil by placing the hot anvil on a boat trailer type apparatus and backed the hot anvil into the river. That video seemed to me too long of time lapsed between the heating process and placing onto the fram, then into the river. The video seemed to indicate the people were elated with the results. Go figure, as any repair or buildup of an anvil is a hot and heavy project. I have worked over one and have another to complete, however I always schedule anything prior to the anvil repair project. Carry on

Maybe she will come to the hammer-in in August ....to make things a whole lot more pleasant...Perhaps a good cap would be a necessity since one fellow (RT) uses purple paint everywhere. carry on

Yes...attaching the base to the floor..very firmly is a good thing. I suggest the pads for the floor to be 3 1/2 x 6 in x1/2 inch thick. ^ inches gives ample room to have a place for the pad to be bolted down, while having ample room for even a cresent wrench to tighten it. It you do not afix the base then at least drill the floor to install bolts that can be easily pulled out from the top. Anvil bases is one of the love-hate or chevy vs ford arguements. And after a while of using the newly installed item you will have your very own feelings about the situation. But do be openminded. And many of us here agree that three legs is better for the anvil base. Look at pictures and you will see lots of side fixtures that you can add to make your smithing personal and enjoyable. I added a swing around tray to hold different punches while forging items, after welding lots of rings to hold different hammers. Lots of things to think about. Lots of entertainment ahead of you too. Good luck Carry on

Why don't you just say "my house is your house!"...E-A-S-Y Carry on

Wayne...It was not but a few months agon I saw you beat on metal for a straight 15 minutes! In Tannehill State Park Carry on

What do you really save if you have to go back and change the plan? We have all seen culverts used to make chimneys , as well as spiral ducting and other tubing. To not use 12 inch diameter is a mistake..it is a minimum thing, with air and resistance as it moves up the chimney. Maybe in you area there are substitutes. In our area culverts were priced "by the foot" but were only available in certain lengths, regardless of what you wanted. If I went to the trouble of erecting a new chimney I would not want it to not perform as well as possible or have to take it down and add more to it. Backtracking is not a preferred method of travel (work). Spend good money for good work (tools). Carry on

Steve ...maybe we could try some of those out next year at Stan's hammer-in. Those look very attractive. carry on

Since I have had an aneurysm recently my anvil was raised similar to the way Thomas suggested. It is indeed much more comfortable for the intricate work, as I cannot wail away with a heavy hammer for the next several months. I personally think that most all anvil stands should be near 9 degrees, triangled, and very heavy. But mainly the feet should be quite generous in pad widths WITH mounted bolt holes into the concrete. Even bolts can be inserted into the holes for a bit of success and yet be removable for unforseen changes. If I really wanted the best the floor pads would be secured to the floor tightly. It makes all the differrence. carry on

Very inspirational...indeed. I have enjoyed this project since you started posting it. Hopefully all that read and look about the whole story will be able to appreciate what a wonderful piece of life you have extended. Hooray to you! carry on!

Now that is a powerful hammer! Your project looks very attractive. I personally have never worked in a shop with big windows so I am so jealous. Hope it works out just fine for you. Carry on

second pic...horse is smilling. You are tallented! Carry on

You gonna slip that new power hammer you are gonna buy through thos big window spaces? The doorway looks a tad bit narrow? It still looks like a neat blacksmithing shed. Good luck with your project. Carry on

maybe even starte a little romance ......ummmmm carry on....and on.....an on

you should consider getting "one on one" instructions. Brian teaches HOW smithing is connected to artwork Carry on

Go to an air conditioning / heating supply house...not the local jobber. Although the local guy may be of help. 12 inch minimum or 15 inch , spiral wrapped tunnel. It is quite strong and yet not so heavy. Supposed to be 2 feet above the ridgerow of the roof but many just have it several feet above the roof (if it is on a slight slope). Once the hot air starts flowing it will suck out all the smoke and fumes. Brian does not use a "super sucker" hood either...just a straight pipe starting right above the forge...with enough room to carry on business with the coal. carry on

I had a wife like that ONCE...that was 19 1/2 years ago. The one I have now is more realistic in believing in work styles. I no longer require much fancy clothing. Carry on

What is the type metal used? Was it hardened after forging? Carry on

I have just gone through such a situation earlier this year. A rail spur that I owned had become abandoned. But many years ago it was "owned" by the previous owner, which is a strange situation unto itself. In the past the rail companies owned all that was attached to any rail project, then it started requiring the landowner to make necessary rail repairs or improvements. That happened as the rail companies were washing their hands of rail sidings. At that time most engines would not enter the property as they wouls string along enough cars to engage the rail cars that were to be moved. Well that is the way they did it in Mississippi. Last year we decommissioned our fixed assets along the rail, along with the rail we owned. Those folk that took up the tracks (rails) had to get a special letter from the rail companies stating that the rail was in fact owned by others and could be sold for scrap. We came in witha backhoe to remove all the usable ties and plates along with spikes. Backhoes make quick work of such aproject, but 4 flat tires later took all the luster from the great adventure. I still have a couple of buckets of spikes but I will not plan on entering the project without steel tracks.

It is difficult for me to be without a drillpress. I use one of those jerkanese models with a horse and a half, has two belts that generall allow you to do most anything necessary. But hey..I would rather have one of those belt driven (wide belt) with an already adapted single phase motor. with those thing you can drill 1 1/2 all day long. i also have a milling machine that doubles as a drill press for accuracy although it will not drill large holes. Carry on

I purchased a bunch of HF hammers of varying dimensions. Many were turned into fuller tools and for that they work in the untreaded manner rather well, considering the cost of about $3.00 each. I took another and turned it into a cross pien. It is ugly as all getout but hardened good enough to be an adequate pein witha rather rounded pien. Carry on

In the past I have seen mold setters at the foundry using similar tools to pound the sand fill. The cavities would allow deep penetration if too much cope or drag fill was added. But most times they used a single handed sinker. I would think that item to be used in the making of bells where there would be very deep fills. carry on

please provide some vdeo too. What you have now looks appealing to some of us. Carry on