David Gaddis

Most people on this forum do not have access to a shop like that. Consider yourself lucky. Now go make a mess of it!

There is no reason for me to add any pictures Lyle. Your photos were quite exemplifying. Here is the story though. The fire was started at 12:30 with 50 pounds of coke. A fan driven furnace with a single air shaft was used outside in the shade. Timing was critical to be completed prior to the sun emerging the tree line. The pics and the thermal scan tell a portion of the story while heating. To maneuver the heavy anvil around two pieces of rod material were welded to opposing ends. The anvil was turned more and more frequently as the heat was absorbed. Remember this is outside so lighting can deminish your senses for the proper heat. Brian was right on spot for the heat. His drift was too short to make a straight through pass so he had indented the hole prior to heating to give the necessary index for the drift. The material was 3 inches thick. Upon heatying it was carried directly into the shop and placed in coordination with another anvil so the drift could pass properly. Soon the large beater was whacking away...on one side approach then the other. Cooling the drift occured frequently. The drift was 1" square of some tool steel. Brian chose a re-heat just in case things may need it. The next thing you realized was the drift was bottomed out and ready to be finished. Then another cooling, and a few blows with the flatter,....insert the drift again and slowly drive the instrument through the hole as the chunk cooled. No it did not seize. It made a polishing exit as it was finished. Things to look for: Do not use too large of drilled hole or the drilled portion will show its ugly face as a swelled up semi-circle in the proceedure. Use a good quality drift. Make sure your radii are proper for the finished product. Plenty of heat but not burned. A good surface to beat through. A good striker that is timely. Time to finish the project? 2 hours matches in the fire to finish for a cool one and about 15 pounds of coke Thanks Brian and Lyle for showing me that this was a project that could be accomplished by most any of us...if we try.

Yeah...and that is about 1/10 lb. Were talking about 60 pounds or so...and 3 in thick! Also...increasing the base hole size from 3/4 to 7/8 in diameter. I am looking forward to seeing this operation. Now I am wondering what kind of tongs will be used.

Last night I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in new anvil for Brian. It is 3 inches thick! Next week I plan to photograph the big event of him driving the 1 inch drift through the material. Be on the lookout next week to see what happens.

that is a really good suggestion to be used....until more can be determined good luck with it...do not let it become a doorstop !

Rob Gunter is the guy that has a well formed description on the repairs of anvils...if you want to do it right. Be ready for some rather hard work if you do the process...yourself and with friends. Warning ! Warning! WARNING! IF YOU ARE NOT AN ACCOMPLISHED WELDER DO NOT ATTEMPT THE PROCESS....Hire it done. Do not yield to any other process either except maybe changing to BBG and DDG welding medium.

very clean and well appointed work. The design is matched by workmanship too. Thank you for sharing these pictures as they are an inspiration for all of us here on IFI.

It is always good to hear the positive things that come from Lyle and Brian. Since they were with you guys last weekend they could not be with us here in Mississippi for our annual convention. Not to fear though because Lyle's wife did come to our meetings providing more than necessary things for our group. Perhaps it starts as a family thing, I do not know, but their family is nice to have around. Brian's is too, just mentioning...

I got tired of resharpening my punches....since my forge is outside it is a bit difficult to really see the black dot sometimes...and sometime I am influenced by other things...and the smarting fluid is not working sooo well either. Thanks Brian...others David G

Many of the books suggest using copper or other suitable covering on the anvil when making piercings with the punches and drifts to protect the tools. What type or grade of copper would you use? How thick would you use when concerned about economics too? Any other suggestions concerning the situation would be appreciated. Would you consider using aluminum? Even being careful I still make contact with the anvil surface way too often. I can imagine how bad it would be if there were students involved. David G

Bryan did an excellent this past weekend for the Miss Forge Council on forge welding and using the magic flux. While there we tried every way possible to fail then as usual Brian would step back into the picture and show us "Do it this way...easy!" Of course Lyle was there with his evidence machine while a good time was held by all. Brian and Lyle we appreciate your good instructions. David G

Some more great pictures Lyle. Please keep at it. Your pictures tell us a lot when we look closely. It seems that you also had two good characters to be making pictures of also. I am interested in seeing the grape leaf vine and tendrils.

Maybe you should have made it out of 4150! Wished I knew he was coming over ...I would have dropped by to learn some more. Good luck with the big ole hammer!

Very nice. I bet knocking the hole through the 4140 was a pretty good job too. In the past I thought that was my choice of steel..but not now...unless I have a hydraulic punch or strong stiker close by. I have been convinced to retreat to 1045 etc

Does it quack?..like a duck?

Recently at a trip to Huber Freight I saw these ball pein hammers for a decent price. Now perhaps they are not of the greatest quality but I need some fullers. Seems to me at the cheap prices of about 4.50 USD for the largest and down to about 2.79 USD for the lightest why not get a few. Bought all of them that day! Having had a little training by Brian and Lyle I started my go at it. Sawed the heads off and threw them into the fire whaere they soon had no handle parts and glowed nicely without magnatism. So after I let them air cool / anneal as best as possible. The next day I picked up one of them and gave it a good bang with a new hammer. Sure thing they were softer than before. I do not possess many BS tools as of yet so having the right tool was not a possibility. Into the hot coal one went and up with the blast. I kept the heat separated as much as possible to the ball end and proceeded to bang on the ball to flatten out somewhat. Soon, without a flatter they were going into my form and as best as possible I held into place until I got a semi-form similar to the swage. It is radiused at the ends slightly.. Another set of hands and a striker could have made short work of this hand operation. The first fuller required about a ton of coal and the 4th one only took a teaspoon, although much larger...32 oz. I cleaned them up a bit but there are many mis-hits to see. They were not hardened yet and only partially ground to fit. Here you can see a before and after situation. Now I am looking forward to use my more economically-based tools to work on a new project. David Gaddis

Pretty...but now it will not fit in the tool box!

If I was to place a coin from my birth year it would have to come from a coin collector...from waaayyyy baaaacccckkkkkkk!

Now we are getting intop a problem area...my info was to use Stoody 2110 3/16 as the build up rod ..to level the low spots and to create an acceptable bond between whatever is there and the HF rod Stoody 1105 1/8 inch, with 2 passes max. I have never welded on an anvil yet but have welded lots of 7018, 11018, 7016, 7014, and a boatload of 6011, etc. What is the rebound of the anvils that you have welded on? That information is of interest to most everyone here. And not wanting to sound too arrogant because I really do want to know. From reading about this proceedure there has been posting about one proceedure to the next that gives differing results. Personally if I am going to all this trouble I want my lifetime toy to be the best that it can be and not just shaped well by some welding technique. If I come over as being too harsh I do appoligize. Many of us here are very interested in this very similar project. Thanks David G

That is the plan...to fill in the lower spots..bring low to level...add a complete new base over everything..then overcoat with HF. I am looking forward to having a decent flat surface to work from...while having a good edge too!

Darn neat video and technique... Carry on!

And it will keep people from walking off with that planter!

I am one of the people that appreciate the information that has been forwarded to me. If it was not for the internet then the little Lorelie Simms book would be responsible for me quiting the BS regime. ALthough it is a nice book, it falls far short of the introduction I received from VERY HELPFUL PEOPLE that volunteered my green coal schooling and others. Thank you internet. Thank you library. Thank you L. Simms. and thanks to all those that freely give of their information and help for the good of Blacksmithing. Carry on .

I got my supply of new grinding wheels in yesterday so I had to give the "stone" a try. It seems that the welding supply guys that I had been using for my grinding supplies were out to lunch in the knowledge department. Theu had been supplying me with discs that provided them more sales margin while giving me about adequate grinding ability. Yes there is a trade-off but here is what I found out yesterday. Those stone cupped grinding wheels are some really go-getting cutting machines. When I ground some hard stuff this stone went after it like a Pirannah! Not pretty mind you but effective. The flap discs can make the pretty work then, even on the hard faced material. Now I am ordering my rods or wire to do the anvil repair.

When I grow up I hope to do that good.....man...they are some fine tools!