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I Forge Iron

seldom (dick renker)

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Everything posted by seldom (dick renker)

  1. whirly is right. i almost went by them because of thier size, glad i didnt. pretty neat.
  2. i have a concrete flor in my shop and i hate it, but it came that way. i put down a rubber mat an inch thick that i had left over from horse stalls. it is right where i stand at my forge and anvil and makes a world of difference on my feet, legs and back. if i had my druthers i would havea dirt floor.
  3. cleanup is just part of the job. i use a file and a heavy cold chisel. chisel is used like a scraper, just slide it along and most of the spatters come right off. i use the file to knock off sharp edges and it softens the metal. i had a wakeup call one day in a craft shop when i looked at a piece that when i turned it over to look at the bottom was still covered with spatter and fume dust. determined right there that my work would lok better than that.
  4. he has the knack of stepping in a pile and coming out smelling like a rose. glad he's my freind. :)
  5. today was road trip day. picked up divermike at about 8:45 this morning. finally got us home abot 3 this afternoon. laying quietly in the back of my p/u was a 178 lb trenton in pretty good condition. now i just have to figure out how to get it out, it took three of us to put it in. all in all drove 200 miles for the day and spent 250 bucks. figure it was a pretty good day.
  6. if the customer is happy, whats left? Just remember what you wanted to do different for the next time. nice job.
  7. thanks matto, much appreiciated. dick renker (seldom)
  8. welcome aboard josh. you will find a lot of help here and there are several from your area of ohio here on the site. good luck.
  9. when i was shoeing i always used forshner's hoof packing packed in the handling hole for pritchel lub. worked pretty good and was good for hands as well.
  10. just went to the shop and checked mine. my spring is about an inch and a half above pivot point and opens fine. i agree that perhaps the spring needs attention.
  11. yetti, nothing wrong with antique stores. I check them out all the time and find stuff that i can use and most of the time it doesnt cost an arm or a leg. nice catch.
  12. looks like perhaps the bottom is being used as a swage block.
  13. your work is amazing. i keep waiting for everything to move and breath. great stuff.
  14. doug started at cornell and has progressed more than any farrier i have heard of. he realy has his act together. i had one of his early books and it was great. when i quit shoeing my wife sold it on ebay. as dk forge said earlier, you have to work with several before you can learn much. i had been shoeing for about 7 years before i went to cornell and it made all the difference in the world. thats when you find out what you dont know and what you want to learn. good luck
  15. although it is difficult to get into, cornell university in ithaca ny has a shoeing school attached right to the vet college. I went there and it was great.
  16. Ferrous Beuler. point of contact for NYSDB is: Brian Martens, 1026 Washington St., Spencerport, NY 1459 He is the treasurer of the outfit. We are also having a hammer in in May that should be interesting. Dick Renker
  17. with a little tweeking the bowl end could be turned into a candle holder. it has nice lines but not sure i want to make it so big. just me. keep experimenting its fun.
  18. these are really neat. gonna have to try some when i get back from vacation.
  19. awesome. steve thanks for posting this. once again simon gets overpowered.
  20. SoCalDave, I make horseshoe lamps and just sold two to the same party. While I was heming and hawing about he price, I really didn't know what to charge, she said don't sell yourself short. I also get my shoes for free for the most part, I buy for special orders, but there are lamp parts and shades not counting cleanup and finishing. So far my price ranges have been from 100.00 to 150.00. If you go to the forum horseshoes as the metal you can see one of the lamps.
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