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I Forge Iron


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About bionicarm

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Springville NY
  • Interests
    uh..smithing, old tools (you know, with that sweet patina and wooden handle)

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  1. sometimes I wish asbestos didn't kill you...perfect application. Looks good!
  2. Thanks, Thought I'd read most everything in vices. I'll be working with the smith tomorrow and I'll try and get a measurement on the jaws if time allows...I stupidly forgot :/
  3. I've been working for a local smith on the weekends. The other day he showed me a vice that he has in storage.... I've heard of these but hadn't ever seen one before, I thought it was pretty fantastic. He mentioned being open to selling it, unfortunately I think that it would cost more than my current vehicle...and I'm kinda short on cash right now :/ I have no idea what the screws look like or anything, what would be a ballpark figure. He also asked me to let him know if there was any action on here about it. I don't know what he's thinking on price, just wondered what you all thought.
  4. has some vague similarities to yer standard hand cranked apple peeler.... First guess is some kinda corn kernel knocker off of the cobber A nice, slow pan video of it and an action vid would help. Depends on if you have access to it still and how curious you are. I for one am intrigued
  5. bionicarm


    Ptree, about half the project supervisors are good to work with up here...the other half are wonderful opportunities to practice patience. sounds like an interesting system if a bit tedious :) I haven't run into anyone trying to do anything like that...just hack it out and throw it away, real shame.
  6. bionicarm


    As ptree's nemesis (an asbestos project and air monitor) I can affirm all that he said. Asbestos related diseases take 15 to 40 years to surface and usually requires prolonged exposure on a frequent basis to really foul you up...that being said, it's nothing to mess with. you only have 2 lungs and they have to last as long as the rest of you. A good mask is kind of like good eye protection-You don't always need it, but when you do, there's not a lot that can be substituted in...expect to pay a bit for a quality mask and keep extra filters on hand. You won't need them for most things, but if you're say, chipping off insulation.... Proper ventilation can almost never hurt.
  7. How did you make the...uhh...tapered pipe on the outlet? Sheet metal and a wooden form? Seems to have too uniform a thickness to be forged (could just bee angle though)
  8. not to be derogatory of these gentlemen, but when he's beatin on it with the hammer it looks like a terrible weld. Anyone else think so?
  9. Azur, First I want to say I like your attitude. You work with what you've got. Seal up the holes in the sides however you can, duct tape will work. an old tarp, piece of canvass, saran wrap (plastic food wrap), any of these can seal up the holes. Then attach that thing to a pipe and get to hitting. That will work alright, just keep pumping slow and steady, not the jerky puffs like you're trying to blow a stick around. While you work with that bellows you can begin gathering materials for the next set. Like Glen said, your next set you make will be better, could even go for something a bit more challenging like a double lunged bellows. I have no doubt you can make it work from what you've shown here.
  10. George, I was bare handed, don't like gloves. I didn't get pinched at all, the slit is very narrow, the width of one band saw blade I suspect. I was only aware of it when I thought about it, even then it was not uncomfortable, just different. I agree with your thoughts on cutting your tools, this is just what this guy does and I thought it was interesting and wondered if anyone else did it.
  11. No, it was on the other half of the hammer, where you would grip for a strong blow, and it was MUCH thinner than that.
  12. I have been working with a local, professional smith. When I picked up one of his hammers (after a prompt) I noticed there was a cut in it on the last 8 inches of the handle, straight up through the handle where I would normally grip it. When I asked him about it he said it acted to take up some of the vibration and save his arm and elbow. 'Said it worked wonders. The cut was in a horizontal orientation if you were holding the hammer to strike a blow. Has anyone else heard of this? I used that hammer for about 2.5 hrs and it didn't seem to irritate my hand at all, or feel all that weird either. It wasn't a large gap, it looked like he just used a band saw to zip up it real quick. Just enough for there to be a bit of play in the handle.
  13. Been working my mail hauberk on and off...it's not quite a hauberk yet though... was using the big concrete nippers at the end, longer lever arms really saves your hand if you have to cut many more than a few hundred. I also made some key chain fobb type things and gave them to my buddy and brother, they both like em...looked like smaller versions of Ramsies' bracelet.
  14. I would say no. Reasoning: you are never going to want to sit and forge...it is done in third world countries true, but not if there is access to any other means, stay on your feet. You also want as much mass under your hammer as possible in order to move metal well. You didn't specify what your orientation was but I suggest doing like and turning the big piece vertical with the smaller piece welded on top. Also, you can see how I did mine http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/28857-funny-rr-rail/. This worked out really well for me. Knowing how much material you're working with would be helpful. After you did something like that you could THEN make a solid base out of say, concrete. I'll post some photos of mine later, I made it out of wood and it's working pretty well. The concrete in a bucket thing may work but you may also bust it all up, I've never worked on something like that before, you'll have to get info from someone more experienced...However, if you're going to fill the bottom with dirt you HAVE to dig down below the organic layer (darker dirt) and get to "mineral soil". where I grew up it was a yellowy orange clay stuff. This will pack down tighter (and you should pack it as tightly as you possibly can) and the organic layer will decompose underneath your concrete. When you've got the dirt in, fill it with concrete until your rail track can rest on the top and the striking surface will be about knuckle height (the ones closest to your wrist). Let that set, place your anvil and fill around it in concrete...that's what you were going to do I guess, but I wouldn't do it until I heard from someone more knowledgeable about weather or not it's going to crack your concrete all up.
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