SmoothBore

The term "Millwright" isn't used much anymore, ... and it encompasses a lot more than just steel "fabrication", ... but it might be as close to what you're looking for, as any other "trade" name. .

A London Pattern does everything I want it to, ... and about 200 - 250 pounds is as heavy as I can easily muscle around the work area, to re-position it for different jobs. If I had a "fixed" anvil location, and orientation, ... then 350 pounds would be about right. .

Well, of course, ... you NEVER stop. But it gets even worse ..... People just keep on bringing me their broken, obsolete old machinery. Life is good. .

As a life-long curmudgeon, ... I can assure you that geezerhood is an "end-stage" condition. .

One of the hazards of impending geezerhood, is that sad feeling, that you've seen it all before .....

Well, ... what you say is certainly true, ... but unless you also have a "lucky" Buckeye in your ( right ) pocket, ... and spit 3 times, ( towards the East ) before you begin, ... your weld will surely fail, on the anniversary of the day you lost your virginity. But don't take my word for it. This test has been used since time immemorial, among the craft-clans of lower Heetitnbeetit, ... as part of their prenuptial ceremonies. ( A Bride who cannot produce an unbreakable weld, ... must then provide 47 Hogsheads of Coal, as part of her dowry. ) .

This is yet another case where precise interpretation is essential. The question, is in regard to "Squirrel Cage Blowers". Therefore, I'd suggest copying a Hamster, Rabbit, Ferret or Rat cage device. ( We're not blowing rodents here, ..... just their cages. ) .

I'm fortunate enough to have a little fab shop nearby, that keeps a good inventory of HRS on hand, ... and will custom cut, and sell me "drops" or full lengths of whatever I need. And if he doesn't stock what I need, he can get it in for me, on his next regular order. Even so, ... it's convenient to keep a small selection ( maybe half-a-ton ) of shapes and flat bar on hand. Generally, whenever I buy material for a project, I'll buy full sticks, and just put the surplus on the rack, for future use. This seems like a simplistic approach, ... but it's been adequate to bail me out of many, many situations. There's a good Scrapyard about 20 miles away, ... ( Sahd's Salvage, Columbia, PA ) ... with which I have a 40 year relationship. But since the heavy industry has dried up around here, the yard doesn't have the wide selection that it once had. .

I'd worry more about the pipe than the welds. "Black" or "untested" pipe, is a real crap shoot when it comes to quality. .

Spoken like a true "textbook warrior", ... making the assumption that EVERY reference, ... spoken in every language, ... can only be interpreted in THEIR OWN vernacular. While I on the other hand, had no problem differentiating the use of the word "grain" in reference to a texture that resembles weathered wood, ... from one about molecular strings and cross linking, ... or one about corn and wheat. I think we are best served, when we view these forums as a general exchange of knowledge, ... rather than as a competition. For, in truth, ... none of us has ALL the answers.

Paint oxidizes too.

Simply stated, ... modern "industrial" forging, is all about CONTROLLING the variables ... of specific material composition, temperature and speed/pressure. ( This controlled process allows for the forging of materials that are virtually impossible to work using traditional techniques and tools. ) While the "traditional" techniques of the "Blacksmith", involve a PROGRESSIVE shaping of the material, with a variety of tools, as it continually changes in temperature and elasticity. The molecular characteristics of Wrought Iron, ( and some Mild Steel ) lends itself to this progressive process, ... while the composition of many Alloy Steels simply do not. Anecdotally ..... Wrought Iron is successfully forged from a "red" heat, all the way up to "white hot", ... but some Stainless Alloys require a window of less than 100 degrees Fahrenheit for successful forging. ( Personally, ... I can't look at a piece and predictably judge it's temperature within such narrow constraints. ) Again, ... I'm not saying you can't successfully use modern materials. Only that you will encounter many variables related to the characteristics of modern materials, that are not always foreseen, or addressed, by traditional methods. And, as always, ... your results may vary .....

The phrase "hardened tree stump stand" seems awkward, without imparting regional "color" or detail. In the days before "Dutch Elm disease" decimated this tree species, in the 1930's, ... mature Elm trees were favored for the Hub portion of wood-spoked wheels, due to their twisted grain structure. ( This made them less prone to splitting or "checking". ) To someone familiar with the repair of early farm machinery, such a stump would be an obvious, and preferred choice as an Anvil base, ... for the same reasons.

I have no interest in the opinions of self-appointed experts. But would contribute this to the discussion ..... Perhaps a part of the difficulty experienced by some beginners, ... as-well-as quite a few experienced practitioners, ... lies in the inevitable disconnect that arises when attempting to apply archaic techniques, to modern materials. The techniques utilized and promoted by experts in traditional Ironwork, were developed to most successfully manipulate that particular ( Heterogeneous ) material, that we know as "Wrought Iron". Applying those same techniques to ALLOY steels ( a Homogeneous metal ) is going to yield somewhat different results. Quite often, those differences don't affect the desired outcome, ... but on occasion, they can create "issues". This is why so many experienced toolmakers and blade-smiths eschew "mystery metal" in favor of "known alloys". Those folks tend to be "results oriented", ... while others of us enjoy the "mystique" and "adventure" associated with "scrap" metal. ----------------------------------------------- And while I'm on this "soap box", ... a few words about choosing "scrap" metal for your intended purpose ..... A common question arises on these forums, that goes something like, ... "Can I cut this 200# chunk of steel into blanks for making nails and paper clips" ? Well, ... of course you CAN, ... but why would you WANT to ? When I want to make, ... let's say, a small punch, ... I'm most likely going to make it from a slightly larger "struck tool". ( Used punches and chisels can be found at every flea market, ... for a pittance. ) The point being, ... that similar tools will be of an appropriate size and material. You don't have to "reinvent" the wheel, every time you light up the forge. But, if that's what you WANT to do, ... then you've got to expect a high percentage of failures.

As usual, Frosty and I agree on a course of action. A thread file will work well for dressing the restored thread to it's final dimensions. However, ... ( there's always a "however" ) ... I would find it difficult to get a thread file to "start" cutting into the welded area. For that reason, I'd want to "start" each groove with a triangular file, ... and remove enough material so that the thread file didn't have to remove as much of the old weld. There are a variety of "external thread repair tools" available, ... ( thread chasers ) ... but they would also have trouble getting "started" on that bit of weld. Some careful hand filing is the best way to get started, ... and I like the "Jeweler's Saw" idea as well, for establishing a starting groove through the weld. ---------------------------------------- In regard to the other above mentioned repair, ( Daswulf ) ... Jim Coke's idea is a good one. But, unlike the "original" thread, I'd recommend a high-grade, fine thread stud, of slightly smaller diameter than the original. .

That was my first thought, as well. If I had a better idea, I wouldn't hesitate "second guessing" the customer. But his choice seems like a good one.

What you call a "D ring", ... is also-known-as a "Clevis", ... or a "Shackle". .

Nobody want's to give "bad" advice, ... so the tendency is to overstate dangers. In reality, those parts can be heated in a WELL VENTILATED workplace, ... with no real danger. And again, ... in reality, ... the danger is NOT in working with commonly found materials, ... the DANGER lies in operating a poorly ventilated forge. Being aware of the potential dangers, is the first, best safety precaution. .

Before there was plastic "well pipe", galvanized steel pipe was commonly used, in wells up to about 100' deep. Part of the mechanism that was used to raise and lower those lengths of steel pipe, looked a lot like the pictured device. There would have also been a pair of "dogs", or clamps, that worked in conjunction with the "jack". But, that's just a guess, ... don't bet your lunch money on it's veracity.

An "Aesthetic" sees a tool for what it "is". A "Pragmatist" sees it for what it can "do". The same comparison applies to "shiny cars" versus "trusty old trucks", ... or to "girls" & "women". Wars have been fought over such perceptional conflicts. ------------------------------------------- Based on my limited experience with the fairer sex, ... I'd advise you to use it "as is" ..... .

Amen to that ! I don't think I've "worn out" a set of laces, since true "rawhide" laces were replaced with the cheap imitation braided, plastic filament-filled, substitutes. Mostly, you just notice that one boot is feeling "loose", ... but on more than one occasion, ... the classic cartoon "hot foot dance" is performed. .

I was always under the impression that a "Single Jack" ( one hand ) or a "Double Jack" ( two hands ) was in reference to the HAMMER used to drive the steel. Outside of railroad parlance, a "Single Jack" is also-known-as a "drilling hammer". Unlike most single-hand hammers, ( where the hammer face is more-or-less parallel to the handle ) ... the drilling hammer's face forms an acute angle, to the axis of the handle. Combined with the Single Jack's short handle, ... this facilitates striking the steel squarely, ... with your elbow bent. ( It's sort of like a "punching" motion. ) I'm of the opinion, that this is for the purpose of ergonomics. .

In my experience, the "log skidder" is called a "log grab", ... and the "star punches" aren't punches at all, ... they're "star drills". Just nit-pickin', of course, ... but accuracy in the terminology, saves a lot of confusion. Sure, YOU know what you mean, ... but some other forum reader might not have the same point of reference.

While that's all entirely true, ... it's my personal philosophy that "life's too short to worry about incidental wear on cutting tools". That's why we call them "consumables". "Tool Worship" is a particularly insidious form of dementia, that can quickly render you ineffectual. .

Generally, before peening, a rivet should protrude about 1 & 1/2 "diameters". So, a 10mm rivet should protrude through the work, about 15mm. .