scottyp74

Ok thanks guys

Has anyone ever used vermiculite board to line a gas forge? I was wondering if it would work. I have read that it is good up to 2100 degrees. Im not sure if this would work or not.

I etched with a homade ferric chloride. It was murratic acid I think 32% and hydrogen peroxyde. 3% and steel wool. 2 to one ratio peroxide to acid. I left it in for an hour. The neutralized it in water and baking soda. If that is how it is suppose to look then ok. It was my first try and didn't know if I did something wrong.

No I did not cut the welded end off. I thought I came back far enough to draw out the tang. I guess I was wrong. I really think the light color like that has to be from the welds from my mug welder. I did not weld in the middle. I just thought I came back far enough to draw it out and not be exposed to the welds. I will cut it off next time. I really want to make the patter lol more or stand out.

I made my first cable Damascus knife. I'm wondering if the welding of the ends to keep it from fraying made the light color marbling effect in the patter? Also how do I get the actual cable pattern to pop or stand out more? It stands out great right out of the etch but after I neutralize it and wipe it off you can see it very well. I heard that heat treat will make the contrast of the patter stand out more is that so? Any thoughts or tips are welcome thanks. Here is right out of the etch This is with it neutralized and whipped off.

Let me explain more. I'm welding a piece of pipe into a drifted hole to make and eye. Will the welds get weak if I heat them in the forge after welding the pipe in?

Hey guys I was wondering if I weld something and then forge it will it make the welds brittle? I know that you have to weld your billets together for demascus. The welds are usually on the ends and get worked out or that part gets tossed. What are your thoughts?

Thank so much guys for the help. The customer wants me to make these and once we get a working prototype out. He wants to market them in North America, South America, Africa, and Australia. He is wanting to sell them for around $150 or so depending on what kind of handle you get put in it (Ash or Osage Orange). Along with a magnet and what not. I don't think there is going to be a way to make these for the price point. Even if it only takes me 2 hours to make it. It is going to cost him at least $100 a head for me to make them and that is if I get the start to finish down to 2 hours or so. He is saying he will be putting in orders of 50 to 150 at a time. I don't think I will be able to keep up with that kind of demand as a one man operation. What are you thoughts on this adventure.

Thanks Frosty. I was wondering about 1045. I use it for hammers and abuse the mess out of them and i have never had a crack. I will try that out. Thanks for the tips guys. I have some Disc blades as well I can try as well.

I'm not sure i understand what you are asking. I use 5160 and work it a lot as well as 1045, 1060, 1074, 1084, and 1095. I use these steels all the time to make blades out of. I'm leaning towards the 5160. It is just tough stuff and easy to work. Also it is cheap and easy to find. I was just wondering if there was any other metals that might work that is not to costly and easy to get a hold of. It sounds like using 5160 or some high carbon 10xx series metal would work.

I'm making a detecting how or detecting pick. It will be used to dog up earth and cut through roots and bust through very thin layers of loose rock. My question is should I look at using 10xx series, spring steel or some other alloy? Im wanting to keep the cost relatively low. Any ideas. Here are some pics of one that I have seen.

I made a 2x72 ginder and I'm using a a 2.25 hp tread mill motor. My question is the motor will shut down when I put the belt under a heavy load for a period of time. Is there a way for this to be stopped?

OK lol the client had another blacksmith forge one out for him. This other smith used 4140. The customer does not care what alloy is used as long as it hold up to the task. What would be a good alloy to use for a simple gold detecting pick axe. I just want to know a few types of alloys that would be suitable for this item that is all. I figured from everyone's comments 4140 is good but at there any others?

What are good metals to use for a pickaxe?

Well online I found a piece of 4140 stock that is 12"L x 3"W x 1/4"H for $20 plus shipping. I was thinking I could make that the dimensions I needed. Yes I have a mentor close to me. Dave Edwards he lets me work out of his shop and give him a hand on some of his projects.