MetalMuncher

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About MetalMuncher

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rio de Janeiro, Brasil
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, Buscraft, Fitness

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  • Location
    Rio de Janeiro, Brasil
  • Biography
    Not very interesting
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    too many
  • Occupation
    Bum
  1. That is some great looking work, Randy! Keep it comin´! Cheers, Michael
  2. Forging a barrel is tough stuff...best of luck to ya. Cheers
  3. I did warn y'all it was a brain fart! Hmmmmm, junkyard here I come! Thanks for all the help guys. I figured it needed to be a good solid hunk of metal. I guess I just have to look harder I will let you know how it goes! Thanks again for all the help! Cheers
  4. You are right George, but the joy of it is that you can simply pull the hammer head out and slap some more concrete in there. You can compact stuff only so much. It has nowhere to go because the base will be a solid 1/4 inch steel plate. Sand is another option, but I think I might have to keep adding until it gets really solid. Any thoughts? Cheers
  5. Hahahaha! Half the fun is trying to figure out to make the bloody thing. But I will indeed take pictures with the goal to help others Ummmm, I think I had an idea...err...brain fart. Have a look at this pic: This is my idea for my anvil. I have seen people weld huge billet looking chunks of metal together and all sorts, but that is just not an option for me. So this is what I came up with. The 10kg hammer head would simply slide into the pipe and only a small portion of it would be sticking out. I will fit snugly in the pipe. Any thoughts? I think the concrete would provide sufficient mass to make it effective. Any thoughts? Thanks again!!
  6. Thanks again dudes! arftist and George, I think the configuration that will best suit my needs is the double nut. It makes sense and should hold fast. I will be sure to counter-rotate them Thanks for the note on the roller and tire. Im not even sure about their dimentions yet, so I can make ajustments as I go. Pictures might only come with time, but I will be sure to shoot plenty! They will, hopefully, prove useful to others. Great! Thanks for all of your help! Cheers Michael
  7. Thanks for your help guys! Nice to have some good ol' straight forward answers Grant, I meant motorcycle spring. I thought shock was the word hehehe. Good to know a horse power is a horse power, I thought that simple bench grinders were of an inferior quality or something. George, thanks for pointing out the rocking bit. I was even going to buy a 2 Hp grinder! I think I will be purchasing a 1hp grinder...I figure I could always ajust the size of the contact wheel and hone in on what works. Am I right? P.S- About the bolts, would a regular nut and bolt do the job? In my mind it would come loose with all the vibrations. Thanks for the help! Cheers Michael
  8. Greetings! I have been having pondering the idea of making a tire hammer. Seems relatively straight forward, cheap-ish to build and looks sufficiently harmless so my girl wont complain I just need to confirm a few technicalities and was wondering if you guys could give me some advice. The cheapest and most readily available motor for me would be an ordinary bench grinder. I was thinking about 1 or 1 1/2 HP one (2,500 rpm give or take). The question in my mind is whether a grinder can handle the torque when contacting the tire. Would the grinder even be capable of moving the tire, or just stop all together? Secondly, concerning the spring connecting the upper linkage arms, could I use a motorcycle shock? And finally, bolts. What kind of bolt does one use for the moving bits? This hammer will consist primarily of scrap. I would be using leaf springs (forged or cut to shape, length and thickness) for the linkage arms just to save on money. As funny as it sounds, even being in Brazil, iron still costs an arm or a leg Any advice would be great guys Cheers, Michael
  9. I agree. You should do some reading. Not to be mean or anything, but reading is very helpful. Quench (you might want to edge quench) and do a few tempering cycles (in the oven or other controlled apparatus) at 175 C (light to dark straw). About the spine being blue: Once quenched and tempered, fill a tray with water and place the edge of the knife (half inch or more) into the water. Then proceed to differentially temper the edge from the spine by gently heating the spine until the colors run blue. This can be done with a blow-torch, or a large piece of glowing hot metal. Those colors are oxides. The dark blue indicates a softer portion of the blade, while straw color indicates a rather hard portion. These methods have worked well for me. However, everyone has their own preferences. Let us know how it goes! Cheers P.S-Read, it is very helpful ;)
  10. Phil got to it before I did, ha! Mr. Furrer is a wootz Jedi. Cheers
  11. Pardon me! I wrote your name ``cape´´. I meant Kape! :P
  12. Hey cape, I was reading your post again when I saw that you mentioned that your edge melted slightly. If your heat treating temps were that hot, then you are doing something wrong. Assuming you are forging with charcoal, the only thing to do while heat treating is to put the piece in the forge...you might not even need to add air. You only need to get the piece to about 800C (curie temp, easy to recognize becuase steel becomes non-magnetic)Heat the piece slwoly and evenly. Make sure there are no dark spots. However, an excellent start. Just a tip B)
  13. Excellent contrast, elegant shapes.Well done indeed! B)
  14. Your third? Excellent! Cheers!