Yeah i was thinking same stuff, I think to join those stumps with some 2x4 and nail it on 3 4 sides.

I tought stumps are not same, but turn out they are just i didnt aligned them well, they fit nicely becasue of one branch that is cut off and it is same stump that is cut in half.

It will be better if it was one but i dont have, i have this.

Will this cause some trouble like dancing around shop?

 

You get in trouble for dancing around your shop?! Take up dancing with tongs and hammer in hand, that should scare off anyone dumb enough to complain!

How are  you going to connect them?  If I had to do it I might screw some Sharpened headless screws into the bottom half with the sharpened ends aimed up. Apply some glue and drive the top half onto the sharpened screw / spikes. I'd keep it all aligned as I drove them together with a couple pieces of angle iron clamped or strapped around the bottom half as guides. 

Another thought is to make 3 vertical straps to screw to bridge between the halves. First hold them in place with temporary straps and heat the permanent straps to about 400f in the oven and quickly screw them to the halves. The temporary straps will prevent the first hot strap from pulling the halves out of position before you can get the other 2 or 3 heated ones screwed on. They WILL shrink as they cool and draw the wood halves together very tightly. If there's some glue glue in the joint it's even better.

Those are my thoughts, I'd go with #2. If I had to use two wood blocks instead of one. 

I have welded steel tripods under my anvils even though I own a goodly bit of birch / spruce forest to chose from I retired my wood block anvil stands as too noisy.

Frosty The Lucky. 

About dancing part I find myself on old stump that anvil is one time om one place of shop on other time on different place like 4 5 inches moved, maybe I move it while walking.

 

Well I thought to nail some 2by 4 along lengths and that to hold two stumps.

It is really solid like this, if birch was not fresh and brittle I wanted to nail those two together using forged nails with two sharp sides , where you would place head I will taper that end too so they can go inside top stump.

But o changed đind with wood connection.

I’d either go with the double ending spikes with vertical straps or cut key groves 90degrees to one another and make wooden keys with along with vertical straps. That way if you using a hardie hole bending fork or hitting the side of the anvil to set a bend, all the stress won’t go into the straps. Of course glue may solve that, but what’s a little overkill!

Keep it fun,

David

How about if you render your own glue in a wrought iron pot you forged yourself?

Frosty The Lucky.

I don't understand you frosty

Sorry Nat it wasn't a serious suggestion, I was poking fun at David. Glue is easy to make, all you have to do is boil down, hoof, hair, tendons, hide, milk, any collagen. to make mucilage glue, also known as "hide or milk glue," "Elmer's white Glue" is a famous American brand. Humans have been making hide glue for at least 100,000 years as known from archeological finds. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Elmer's white glue is polyvinyl acetate (PVA), not hide glue or milk glue. Also, the protein in milk glue is casein, not collagen.

Elmer's has changed formula, not a big surprise. Casein, not collagen, I should've checked the details. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Elmer's Glue-All was originally a casein glue, hasn't contained animal products for roughly half a century.

When I was working in art restoration, we occasionally had need for pure PVA, which is great for repairing documents, as it maintains its strength and doesn't yellow. It came in little clear "pearls" that we would crush and dissolve in acetone.

That long ago eh? I remember ads saying it was as pure as the milk it was made from, guaranteed non toxic, etc. Then again 50 years doesn't seem that long ago, I clearly remember the minty flavor of the craft paste we used to eat in school. Darn, time really flies when you grow out of eating paste. <sigh>

Now I need to make a cup of mint tea so I don't spend time in the craft isle at the local Fred Meyer. It's funny how strong smells and flavors are in your memory, I can taste the paste as I type. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Who has grown out of eating craft paste, not me?

Well here it is.

Stump is mounted, only anvil need to be tightened this way it hold only with chain for safety reason.

 

Five miniature "timber clamp" forged basically two L on each side with spike on it, nailed in stumps.

Firsr  wooden strips were nailed on it so stumps don't go out of alignment when clamps are being nailed 

Look like some one was watching forum and copied my work about log dogs.

 

Log dogs are great tools and easy to make. 

Are not the chisel ends supposed to be oriented 90 degrees to each other?

For the log dogs I use and how I use them, one chisel end is N-S the other is E-W so they dig into the grain of the wood.

Never thought of it that way, when I saw them in use, I always thought the ends would be square pointed like a nail. Once I make some I have to remember this.

~Jobtiel

Some log dog points are pointed but those need to be long and narrow so as to not cut the grain in the logs and being thin need to be driven more deeply. Cutting the grain promotes rot and the deeper they're driven the harder they are to remove without bending. Spade / chisel bits at 90* hold better and do less damage. 

Frosty The Lucky.

I have seen them 3 ways, pointed, 90 deg and strait chisel. Sometimes mixed in the same dog. I always assumed they were for different jobs. 

A real log dog and pics of how i make mine. The boss in the middle and the bend in the dog act as a spring. Notice the boss in the middle of all three "log dogs"  When driven in, half square mild steel will bend. Done this way, they don't bend and give spring tension so they hold better. Also, when tapping them lose, the extra mass helps. I do a forged right angle bend instead of an upset like in the vid. Another reason for the chisel's to be opposed is that if the grain isn't cut, it will swell back together and leaves no tool tracks. 

Log dogs are usually used here in history for timber framing.

 

If you have like L beam instead mortise and tenon you join it by two dog logs on opposite side 

Or on some corner joints or diagonally.

 

Sometimes combined with mortise and tenon.

 

 

Nailing rubber under stump to protect concrete.

 

I maybe used wrong rubber (cycle tire) smith that sold me anvil used different one 

Well stump and anvil are litle wobbly for now, maybe later weight will press rubber more so it can absorb strokes from anvil going to stump.

Nat: The wood block will protect the concrete unless it's really bad concrete in which case nothing will protect it. The rubber isn't a bad idea though but nail 3 shorter pieces inside the edges in a triangle. By short pieces I mean 100mm +/-, they'll act as cushioned feet and make a tripod and it won't rock. Find a smooth tire, the aggressive tread you used will move they're so small. 

Frosty The Lucky.