Deadman switch for electric blower?

[JHCC]

I've been going back and forth on adding a deadman switch to my blower. There's an obvious benefit to not running the fire when I'm not actually heating steel (thus saving fuel), but I wonder about being tied to the forge and not being able to do my usual prep-before-hammering: making sure I have the right tools, neatening things up, hooking up the treadle hammer, etc. 

Anyone have any experience with using a deadman, and how did you like it?

[Reeltree]

I have an inline two speed switch that was wired into the blower.  It is nice to switch the blower off .  Most times if I forget and leave it on it creates to much fire for what Im tinkering with.

[ThomasPowers]

SOFA uses deadman switches with an over-ride. why limit yourself?

[Daswulf]

I tried one. Even tried the foot on/off switch, both with the variable speed switch I use in line. but in the end I just stuck with the variable speed switch (with on off button) that is mounted on front of my forge. I can easily turn it down or off when I'll be hammering a bit or step away.  The downfall with the deadman switch was when I Wanted to step away when heating large stock to other things. 

If just working small stock in a given forge session it could be useful but I stick with the variable speed w/ on/off switch. 

I also use bituminous coal that i can shut off, and if banked, i can come back after a while and it will fire right back up. Not sure how a deadman switch would work with Anthracite coal. 

[JHCC]

 Unfortunately, the on/off switch on my variac is broken (fortunately, stuck on “on“), so that’s not an option. I suppose I could try one of those tap-on/tap-off foot switches from HF.

I don’t know what kind of coal I’m burning right now: it’s somewhere between anthracite and bituminous, burns dirty, and doesn’t really coke. (It was also free from a neighbor moving away.) I am planning on stopping at the Amish farrier supply place on the way back from dropping my daughter off at college, so I can stock up on proper smithing coal. 

[Daswulf]

I used the foot on/off switch from HF for around a year before i decided I didn't need it. Only advice is to watch or protect the cord from hot steel and such. 

[JHCC]

I suppose I could just replace the on/off switch on the variac. 

 

[lyuv]

I have a variation of it - the air hose has a variable opening ("throtle"?) near me. When it's open, it bleeds air out of the system. That's how I regulate air flow to the forge (in addition to a variable speed control).

So, at a certain opening, and speed setting, I have an "idle" working. But when I block the opening with my hand, there is a boost of air. Sort of your "dead man switch".

I can block the opening when the iron is in the fire ("boost" mode). I can leave it there on "idle" burn. I can set the intensity of the "idle" and the "boost" as I wish.

[anvil]

I use a hand crank blower, but have used electric as well.

My choice for electric is a mechanical slide air gate to regulate the amount of air. 

For me its the most convenient.

Also I've been told more than once that electric motors have a longer lifespan if your motor runs at a constant speed.

[lyuv]

 

12 hours ago, anvil said:

I've been told more than once that electric motors have a longer lifespan if your motor runs at a constant speed.

I"m not sure about the constant speed thing, but I AM sure that it's important to control the air - Not by choking the flow, but by bleeding it out.

Choking makes the motor run slower. This is missleading. In fact, it strains, consumes more current and heats.

If you bleed the excess air out (hence, less air to the forge), the motor has less wear.

[Marc1]

I have an on and off switch and a gate. Being forced to hold onto the switch to keep the fan blowing seems like counterproductive. May be a pedal that switches off as you step off it? Still same thing only hands free.

I wonder if someone could adapt one of those fancy light switch that work with voice or clapping command. Scream one, two or stop ... worth a try

[ianinsa]

what i use and put on the units that i sell is a sewing machine foot pedal  with a manual on/off as well works like a bit of a no-brainer for me! a dream especially with charcoal

[anvil]

18 hours ago, lyuv said:

I"m not sure about the constant speed thing, but I AM sure that it's important to control the air - Not by choking the flow, but by bleeding it out.

I believe in Francis Whitaker's shop, the routine was to control the temp of my fire via the air gate, and to use the on/off switch when moving from forge to anvil so as to not burn the work. I'm pretty sure there was no air bleed in the system.

So, considering the shop I was in, I will assume that back preasure is far less a problem for the motor than constantly changing the motor rpm and a mechanical airgate plus on_off switch is all that is needed.

However, my champion 400/14" fits the kiss principal to a tee,   and works fine always.

[SarMann055]

I had an old electric blower from my father, but it had recently burned out, probably from overexertion. I'd like to buy a new one. I do not need the most powerful and modern, as I will not use it often. I found a great job as an electrical inspector [commercial content removed] and I want to keep blacksmithing as an extra job. There are so many options that I'm a bit confused about and don't know what to choose. What models of electric blowers do you use? Are you satisfied with them? This is my first experience therefore you shouldn't concern prejudiced:) Thank you in advance for the advice!

Edited March 30, 2021 by Mod34
Commercial link removed per TOS

[JHCC]

An old hairdryer or the fan from an old vacuum cleaner is probably all you'll need for occasional use.

[ThomasPowers]

Well it would help to tell us what fuel this blower will be used with? Coke, Coal, Charcoal, Propane, Natural Gas...all used by blacksmiths around the world!

It would help to know how large a forge you are planning---bottle openers and knives can use a different sized forge than sledge hammers and gates.

As an electrical inspector can you tell if a wire is the right gauge without knowing the load and length?  Details!

 

[Deimos]

I get the feeling the post was all about the link, and not an actual question.

[ThomasPowers]

I didn't check the link as it had nothing to do with the question(s).

As an aside: I think any job that has people's lives and property at risk based on their inspector's  report will have extremely high liability insurance premiums for any one who has a "fast, easy training" certificate!  

[Frosty]

I get the feeling it was an attempt to slip a commercial on the forum. However if the OP is serious I'll be more than happy to give you a hand when possible.

Frosty The Lucky.

[JHCC]

All of that aside, just as an update to the original question:

I did eventually add a deadman switch to the coal forge (mostly because I picked one up cheap at the industrial surplus place). Generally, I do like it. However, I am forging primarily with gas these days, so it's less of an urgent issue than previously.

[ThomasPowers]

It's much more of a help for new people who are "slower" when it comes to working metal  and having the fire coast when they are at the anvil saves a lot of fuel and steel. As you get better and work more pieces simultaneously then it's not as much a help.

[JHCC]

That's where the variac comes into its own.