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Mark III JABOD forge

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Old soft red brick from Oklahoma, lol. I have already made a change but as I am out of pocket, no pictures. 

Figured that the shoe and the pump would prove the point. That was about 15 min from light to that picture. It sedled down and got hotter as all the fuel cam to temp. The back of the box and tuyere were warm to the touch (8”) but not even as hot as my morning coffee mug.

now I have a portable for demoes. Cat litter worked the camp. This morning before leaving for counceling I oiled it and planed a bit in the legs so I can flip them around so it sits better.   

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First field test. About 6 hours. The seam between the bricks proved to be a problem.  I will be putting  in a bit trim to hold the bricks an inch or two forward so I can put cat litter behind them. The jet of hot air created a bit of a fire after 5 hours. I will post pictures of the damage and fix later. 











My buddy will knocking off the rust on his forging skills

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  • 3 weeks later...

On a JABOD, the tuyere should be considered a consumable. Make it longer than it needs to be with the excess sticking out the back, and feed more in as needed.

The only times I've had major problems with the tuyere overheating were when I was using pipe that was too thin or when I didn't have enough dirt around it for insulation.

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In the 6 hours we used it the other day the 8” long tuyer got fresh coffee hot the end where the hose connected as did the back of the box. Some were along the line somthing shifted and a supper heated jet of air started making its way between the bricks (wood flashes to flame at about 600f) and we did have a problem with the box burning) but using my hands to check I didn’t have anything get to hot to hold. 

My solution is to move the fire bowl forward the width of a brick, this placing 6” cat litter behind the fire wall (I am sure 2” would be enough butt a brick is convineant as a mesure





The other change was to reorientate the stand, thus reducing the wable as you pump


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On 29.5.2018 at 5:40 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

My solution is to move the fire bowl forward the width of a brick, this placing 6” cat litter behind the fire wall (I am sure 2” would be enough butt a brick is convineant as a mesure

Butting bricks... That's an excellent typo! Got me thinking about the air gaps left between the bricks, creating "heat bridges". For added safety, you could try putting a ~1" layer of litter under the bricks as well?

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You certainly could, it would require a deeper box. As heat rises it has not proved to be much of an issue. Honestly I have more brick than absolutely needed because of the box volume and the desire to keep the forge portable. The two on the floor and the 4 across the back are needed, as one can simply scoop out a depression in the litter. In my case the bucket I have does not fill the box, thus the brick.

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On 5/29/2018 at 9:14 AM, Jon Kerr said:

What about the pump/hose though? Does that not get very hot? The end of my hairdryer was melting.

I’m planning on using a hairdryer too. I’m trying to have it set up to a metal pipe. But Is it a good idea to use a hair dryer? I haven’t done it yet, so I’m think about just cutting out the heating module in the hair dryer and using I that way. Good idea?

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Where did you read about cutting out the heating module of the hair dryer? 

Usually the air pipe gets hot because it is too short from the air source to the fire. A longer air pipe has time to cool. The pipe is considered a consumable item so if the end burns, push a bit more pipe in to replace it. 

Do not connect the hair dryer directly to the air pipe. Use a piece of 3 inch expandable aluminum close dryer vent. Crush one end around the air pipe and leave a gap between the open end and the hair dryer. Need more air, aim the hair dryer a little toward the vent pipe. Not so much air, then do not aim so close. Fuel does not make the fire hot, air makes the fire hot.

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Cutting out the heating element would theoretically (and only marginally) reduce your electricity consumption, I suppose, but it might not be on a separate circuit from the blower. The one time I tried to cut one out off a dryer for conversion to a forge blower, it turned the whole thing into a lifeless shell of its former self.

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I was told a while back by a blacksmith that his first forge was made with a hair dryer. But maybe that would not be a good approach. What do you suggest, other than Glenn’s idea.

We suggest you start reading the posts here , Insulting Glenn wont help you

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The cost of the dryer vent is less than $5. Most places selling dryers, Walmart, plumbing shops, hardware stores, etc carry it. When you tried the dryer vent how did it work at your forge? 


Other than Glenn’s idea? 

Did you read the Bellows, Blowers as was suggested in your other post? Which of the 5,056 posts did you have questions about?


Hand cranked blower: Purchase a Champion, Buffalo, or other hand cranked blower, a standard for blacksmithing. There are a couple for sale in the tailgating section of the site, or generally available at any blacksmith hammer in gathering.

Bellows: A single or double lung bellows is a standard for blacksmith shops. They can be tear drop or circular in shape, both work. A box bellows, either square or circular, has been used for years, and require no electric. There are discussions on the site to make them your self.

Bladders: Use a animal bladder, or two. The standard in many 3rd world countries. No animals handy, then use cloth, plastic, or other materials. This crosses over into the bellows suggestion.

Pumps:  Charles Stevens likes a inflation pump, which is a modified circular bellows. You can use a inflated display air pump, purchased new or scrounged at the end of a display season. 

Fans: Squirrel cage fans work. Small ones 4 inches in diameter up to what ever size is available. Bathroom or kitchen exhaust fans are another option. You can get them new at a bathroom or kitchen supply.  Automotive heater fans are another source. You may have to dump some of the air on larger fans as they make a LOT of air, much more than is needed for a forge. 

Blow Pipes: These can be used but you most likely will realize there are better methods to get air to a forge.


At this point, you need to choose your forge, then choose an air source to match. 

For good and easy air control, I would suggest a hand cranked blower, or a large bellows, tear drop, circular,  or box style bellows. You are in full control of the amount of air that is produced and all can get a fire up to welding heat.

To answer your next question as to cost. The money involved for the suggestions made is not a cost but an investment that should last you from a beginner, to a hobbyist, to a working blacksmith. The suggestions made will save you money on fuel as you do not burn more than you need, and save on electricity, as it does not use electric to operate. Think of it as a one time purchase. If you outgrow it, then you should have the money in hand, from products you made and sold, to purchase what you need for your next level of blacksmithing. Ah, the money thing. Then make your own. It has been done that way for centuries, even in 3rd world countries.

Please let us know which air supply you decided upon and how it works for you. Please post photos. We like photos. 


Additional material: From the stickies at the top of the blacksmithing section.


Watch the beginning to see their air source, and then at 1:35 to see their hammers and anvils being used. Amazingly simple and it works.

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Your welcome.

We want you to succeed and offer suggestions based upon the information provided. You said hair dryer and we answered as how to use a hair dryer and than how to control the air flow. 

There are many ways to make things work. There is no right answer as each situation is different. The correct answer is what works for you, at your forge, at your location, with your choice of fuels.


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Well said Glenn, thank you.

Tyler, we have a huge amount of collective experience and we can either share ideas with you on how to design And build your first forge or we can give you a plan to fallow, but not both. 

That said, tell us what you have to work with, what fuels you have available, projects you want to build and budget (I am poor so I build cheap)

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Well, I basically have a junkyard full of stuff to use. I know how to make charcoal, which is the way I’m leaning towards, a solid fuel forge. I’m planning on using a large metal bowl I have and setting a brake drum in the center with the pipe coming down for a ash dump and hair dryer, probably the way that Glenn had said. I’m hoping to use what I have instead of buying things but I can buy things if needed.

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