George Geist Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Apologies to Glenn but I tried unsuccessfully to post this poll over here. Although anvils are being made new out there, for some reason in spite of the internet and TPAAAT there are guys coming on here every day looking to buy anvils claiming they can't find one. This is enough to make me think real hard about getting into the anvil selling business. If you could have the most perfect anvil (0 member(s) have cast votes) What weight would be your first choice for an anvil? 100-150 # (0 votes [0.00%]) 150-200# (0 votes [0.00%]) 200-250# (0 votes [0.00%]) 250-300# (0 votes [0.00%]) 300-350# (0 votes [0.00%]) 350-400# (0 votes [0.00%]) >400# (0 votes [0.00%]) What is the best anvil pattern? Horseshoers (0 votes [0.00%]) London (0 votes [0.00%]) Continental (0 votes [0.00%]) Other (0 votes [0.00%]) Best anvil material is Cast Steel (0 votes [0.00%]) Wrought Iron with Steel Face (0 votes [0.00%]) Cast Iron with Steel Face (0 votes [0.00%]) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Well a lot of it is that they just don't know where to look. As has been mentioned there is a bunch of online places you can buy good new anvils, catalogs with them in it, etc. Sort of reminds me of the people who buy something from a manufacturer and then start asking random strangers questions about running it. For someone starting out I would suggest a 100# anvil for a hobby smith; a 150 to 250# anvil for a professional shop. and the huge anvils are just bragging pieces. Best pattern depends on what you are doing. I'd go continental though I don't own one---yet. A large sweet spot is better for bladesmithing and the late American wasp waisted ones are great for ornamental work. As I cam in through bladesmithing I'd have liked to have an Italian or German anvil Best anvil material is a definite YES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 You know my answer, right George? Soderfors. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobS Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 150 lbs. is plenty of anvil for the most of us hobbyist. If you are working material that requires a bigger anvil, you would probably be better off with mechanical assistance anyway (power hammer, press, etc.) Other style -- Church windows are gorgeous. You can do almost anything on almost any style, so this really a matter of personal taste. With that said, I like the short and stout, beefy look of continental and earlier London. Lots of mass under most of the face. Cast steel - is probably the best, although I have never touched one. They all work as long as they are not being abused. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It was only a couple months ago I was looking for my first anvil. At first I felt the same way as those you're referring to. The new anvils prices are a shocker for someone with limited means just looking to start up a hobby. Then you move on to looking for older "antique" anvils. But you don't know exactly where to look at first. Classifieds, yard sales, flea markets are the default. But many people seem to think if they can't find it on the internet for their area, then "there is none in my area." So then you move on to Fleabay. There are all the anvils. But wait, those prices are sky high also, plus shipping is out of my price range. Here is where you either decide if you really want a "real anvil" (sarcasim) or not. You have to start putting some effort into the hunt now. You start leaving your neighborhood and hitting the flea markets, 2nd hand stores, estate auctions, internet classifieds further than 10miles from your house. The effort is the issue. My first "real" anvil was an internet find that I had to drive 120 miles to go look at. The next 3 anvils were from sales over an hour drive from home. But I got decent tools, for reasonable rates. It just took a little bit of effort. Patients is the next part of it. You might not find a reasonable anvil the first week you decide you want one. Took me a month to find my first. Now I know where to look, they seem to pop up a few times a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 I think you will be hard pressed to find a "consensus" on anvils! To me 150 is minimum, and best pattern and best steel is german or swedish. However ... if you want to resell anvils, you sell what you can find ... unless you sell new. Whatever you find will have a customer be it 20 lb or 1000 lb, rightly or wrongly does not matter, the customer is always right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 8 hours ago, Frosty said: You know my answer, right George? Soderfors. We all have our blind spots! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubalcain2 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 I'm with frosty on soderfors. i would say 150-200 range as ideal for most folks. my Soderfors Sorceress #10 is 160 and i have never felt a need for anything bigger.(or smaller for that matter.) german patterns are cool, but i don't see them as any better than a good ole london pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Don't you feel sorry for John? The poor boy can't see the obvious. Maybe someday he'll get a chance to use a Soderfors and see the light. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Or hear the light; at least till he mutes it or goes stone deef! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Lisa keeps telling me I need to get my hearing checked anyway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Anvil hunting is an interesting sport, but in this day and age thie is no excuse for new folks coming on here to get took by Flea bay crooks. Google is a tool I use when I go to pawn shops, yard sales, flea markets and stop at the side of the road venders. I look up what that item (or a comparable one) costs new. If they want a $1000 for a 150# anvil I will pass, as I can order a 165#. from northern (rigid/pendenhaus) and have delivered free for $1200. Same goes for auctions. Idiots routinely catch the fever and bid more than new. I set a price, rarely start the bid (then about a 1/3 of my price) and happily walk when it exeads it. Personaly I think we all need a massive hunk of scrap in the shop, something we don't mind the thralls beating up when they strike for us. Hint, use handled top tools and instruct them to hit the top tool! Only chiped edge I have is from a striker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 In my limited experience Papa Rhino hands down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Geist Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 16 hours ago, Marc1 said: I think you will be hard pressed to find a "consensus" on anvils! Actually, it has been done. The late Bill Pieh of Centaur Forge brought together a group of the best top hand Standardbred shoers he could find. He got input from everybody, put all the ideas together and had Kohlswa of Sweden make him a boatload of Horseshoers anvils which are still the standard others try to measure up to. Later, he also had Kohlswa modify it slightly as the first Bruce Daniels pattern. That and GE weren't really much different from the old Hay Budden pattern except for the Centaurs being of that fine Swedish steel. 8 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said: Anvil hunting is an interesting sport, but in this day and age thie is no excuse for new folks coming on here to get took by Flea bay crooks. Google is a tool I use when I go to pawn shops, yard sales, flea markets and stop at the side of the road venders. I look up what that item (or a comparable one) costs new. If they want a $1000 for a 150# anvil I will pass, as I can order a 165#. from northern (rigid/pendenhaus) and have delivered free for $1200. Same goes for auctions. Idiots routinely catch the fever and bid more than new. I set a price, rarely start the bid (then about a 1/3 of my price) and happily walk when it exeads it. Personaly I think we all need a massive hunk of scrap in the shop, something we don't mind the thralls beating up when they strike for us. Hint, use handled top tools and instruct them to hit the top tool! Only chiped edge I have is from a striker. As far as that goes I can remember a pretty well known guy who used to be on this forum and others that used to watch every transaction he could find. If somebody was getting a good deal on an anvil someplace from someone that was pretty clueless and just wanted to be rid of the thing, this guy would contact the seller and tell them what his opinion on the worth of the anvil was advising them not to take any less than $_____. This individual ruined a lot of good deals for a lot of people and quite possibly can be blamed for much of the inflated costs today. He used to claim he couldn't stand to see people not get full worth although other people's buying and selling was none of his business. Post has been edited to meet the site guidelines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 For me, 150-200 or 2nd choice 200-250, double horn or 2nd choice London, cast steel or 2nd choice wrought with steel face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 I haven't used that many different anvils but my Kolswa suits me fine. Its ball bearing return borders on perpetual motion! Love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.C. Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 I've used Kohlswa, Soderfors, Columbian, Peter Wright, Mousehole, GE (Daniels), and Trenton. Wrought with steel faces can have tremendous rebound. ..but it doesn't seem as consistent as solid cast steel anvils. Every cast steel has been a champ. ..like ausfire says. ..borders on perpetual motion with a ball bearing. Even the 70# Kohlswa was a workhorse. It moved metal incredibly well. But my 148# dannemora Soderfors is still my baby. I have yet to use a Continental pattern, but I see some serious advantage to the tapered heel and thick waist. But for size, 120-170lbs of cast steel would cover most smiths needs and wants IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubalcain2 Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 23 hours ago, Jasent said: In my limited experience Papa Rhino hands down i have never used one but they sure look cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 3 hours ago, Tubalcain2 said: i have never used one but they sure look cool. They are made with the same alloy as the liner plates in rock crushers. Air Harding steel. Claimed rc of 54 all the way threw. Pleasure to work on and made right here in Spokane WA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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