BradB Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 I just bought a Soderfors anvil that's in need of some TLC. It has a rather big cut in the face of the anvil (almost looks to me that someone was using a cutting torch and burned into the face). The brand name and other identifying marks are hard to see but I think I can make out Soderfors on one side and 110 lbs on the other so I'm wanting to find out more info on the anvil. Also wanting to find out how to fix the cut into the face. It don't seem like it's delaminating because the anvil rings all around the cut but would like to keep it from cracking. So my biggest question is should I try welding it or at least get a small round grinder bit and round out the cut (like when you have a crack in wood and drill a hole at each end to keep it from spreading). Only paid $75 for the anvil so Im hoping I didn't get hurt on the buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Soderfors would be a cast steel anvil and won't delaminate because there is no welded on top plate. There is a Lot of usable surface on that anvil to use as is. Also you got a heck of a deal at 75$. Use it as is for a year then decide if that torch burn is worth fixing. To repair it properly would be quite ecpensive and to fix it improperly would make it worse then it is now. Put the grinder away and polish up the face by hammering some hot steel on it. Just work around that torch cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradB Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 Thank you for the quick response. I wasn't sure if it had a welded on top or not but I'm glad to hear that it's not. I will definitely take your advice and start pounding some metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anachronist58 Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 $75 for a 110# Soderfors? Sorry for your getting ripped off on that deal. 2 hours ago, Daswulf said: you got a heck of a deal at 75$. Don't be like Daswulf and hang on to every piece of junk that comes your way. Ship it to me - I will give you $80 and pay the freight! Robert Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 If you are in the USA you might check to see if your local ABANA Affiliate is having an anvil repair day anytime soon. Most welders will do way more damage trying to fix it when they don't know how anvils are made and are used. (There are specific, pre heats, rods to use and post heat instructions and most professional welders will get at least the rods wrong if not the entire list! Robb Gunther anvil repair process goes into details if you search it out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 I have to disagree with Scrambler82. The thought of a torch cut on a cast steel anvil opening up like a crack in a green log makes no sense to me. It isn't in a bad spot, so why would it be worth spending 200 bucks on a mostly aesthetic repair? That anvil is a steal for $75. Use it for a while, then decide if you still want to repair it. Also, being a cast steel anvil, I would personally (although others would cringe) take a belt sander to the face if the pitting is causing problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 A Soderfors anvil is a monolithic high carbon Vanadium steel casting. The face on mine is about R60, a file skates more than it cuts and what it cuts is patina. Even a long time professional welder will do more damage than good if s/he doesn't KNOW how to repair anvils. Even being experienced welding high carbon steel doesn't cover it all. This isn't a delicate anvil, even where some moron damaged it with a torch. A person would have to hit it stupid hard to open the gap any. Matching the rods and technique to a hardened high carbon vanadium steel casting isn't something welding shops do though you aren't going to run across a welding shop that won't tell you they can do it. They just won't do it right and the anvil will suffer for it. I like you a lot Scrambler but you're speaking way out of school on this one. You're advice would be okay if this were a low alloy high carbon steel anvil but it's not, it's a HIGH alloy steel. World of different. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brickman Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Only hit it eh left side if using the edge ;).. Problem solved! 14 minutes ago, Frosty said: A Soderfors anvil is a monolithic high carbon Vanadium steel casting. The face on mine is about R60, a file skates more than it cuts and what it cuts is patina. Even a long time professional welder will do more damage than good if s/he doesn't KNOW how to repair anvils. Even being experienced welding high carbon steel doesn't cover it all. This isn't a delicate anvil, even where some moron damaged it with a torch. A person would have to hit it stupid hard to open the gap any. Ugh, i cant wait to get my sodorfors mounted and ready for use. I'm still using my pitted peter wright, which i love, but i really want to get some work on the 'fors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradB Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 Scrambler82- yes I've done the rebound test with a ball bearing and it rebounds right around 75-80 percent of the height in which I drop it. ThomasPowers- yes I'm in the USA, central Arkansas. the anvil other than the cut is in mostly great shape. The corners are mostly all there and has a beautiful ring when tapped with a hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 If that was the one mentioned on anvilfire, it would have been a good deal if they had cut the entire heel off! As so many blacksmithing questions have a location factor to them we suggest editing your profile to put in a general location. I'm from NW AR, Father's side from Fort Smith, Mother's from Cedarville, I was born in Fayetteville and my first child in Springdale; so we're gradually creeping up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Naw, Scrambler, ain't nothin' wrong with accidentally giving misinformation because you were trying to help. Hey, I think I actually do that from time to time. You're FINE. Now that dude with the torch, on the other hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Just use it horn to the right and you are good to go. That cut won't bother a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNC Goater Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Okay I'm not suggesting this but curious...and asking as a newb as far as anvils so keep that in mind and feel free to label this as a stupid question. But, since this is a cast steel anvil and this is just an asthetics thing, what would happen if someone were to heat up something like (depending on width) a 3/16th or 1/4" mild steel rod, and hammered it down in there filling the crack, left it a bit proud, then after cooling hammered it on down flush to tighten it and allow a smooth surface? Would it loosen anyway once the filler cooled? What if any additional damage could it inflict? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradB Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 WNC Goater: that's a good question. I know your not gonna believe me when I say this but the anvil was pretty much a barn find and the owner said throw out a number for it. I told him $100 (just to start low on the price) and he said na it's not worth that much, I'll take $75 for it. Of course with me being new to smithing I didn't really know what I had till I got it home and started researching on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNC Goater Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 11 hours ago, BradB said: WNC Goater: that's a good question. I know your not gonna believe me when I say this but the anvil was pretty much a barn find and the owner said throw out a number for it. I told him $100 (just to start low on the price) and he said na it's not worth that much, I'll take $75 for it. Of course with me being new to smithing I didn't really know what I had till I got it home and started researching on it. That's a fantastic price. I looked for months to try and find something under $5.00 a pound. I ended up with a 103 lb. Columbian for $450. I had to drive two hours for that! It is a cast steel anvil as well and rings like a bell. If yours rings loudly, put a magnet under the heel. It almost silences mine, amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 13 hours ago, matto said: Just use it horn to the right and you are good to go. That cut won't bother a thing. I was going to say the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Generally hamming stuff in a crack is a bad idea. Do nothing is far better than to do harm. If you are worried about looks over usability, fill it with jb weld epoxy and put the anvil on a shelf to look at not use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 On 5/31/2017 at 10:25 AM, ThomasPowers said: If you are worried about looks over usability, fill it with jb weld epoxy and put the anvil on a shelf to look at not use. At a blacksmithing meeting here in town in Feb. there was one person selling tongs, and several of the reins were JB welded on! I'm sure someone bought them not knowing better though, just got to make sure to keep them cool! Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 1 hour ago, littleblacksmith said: there was one person selling tongs, and several of the reins were JB welded on! I might have to make a set like that as a joke and put them into the next raffle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 There used to be a fellow at Quad-State that always had a prank item for sale---like traffic cones with the cone cut off and painted to look like cone mandrels opr the balsa wood sledgehammer head that was handled. Always had a too low price on them so folks were surprised when they rushed to buy them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: There used to be a fellow at Quad-State that always had a prank item for sale---like traffic cones with the cone cut off and painted to look like cone mandrels opr the balsa wood sledgehammer head that was handled. Always had a too low price on them so folks were surprised when they rushed to buy them. there was a con mandrel made from sheet metal that was painted and had Christmas lights on to make it Look like a Christmas tree. Everyone who saw it was ashamed that somebody would do that to a tool, until someone accidently knocked into it and it fell over letting everybody know it was sheet metal. Had a good laugh! Judson Yaggy- sounds like an Idea! Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNC Goater Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 4 hours ago, littleblacksmith said: At a blacksmithing meeting here in town in Feb. there was one person selling tongs, and several of the reins were JB welded on! I'm sure someone bought them not knowing better though, just got to make sure to keep them cool! Littleblacksmith Well it IS JB "WELD" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodnMetalGuy Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 It's the brand name of a two-part epoxy. -- Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNC Goater Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 14 minutes ago, WoodnMetalGuy said: It's the brand name of a two-part epoxy. -- Dave Yes I'm aware of JB Weld. I was making a joke the tong reins mentioned by littleblacksmith were "welded" on with JB "Weld". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 This is a pic of me with a Peter Wrong anvil owned by Roger Degner. This is a good argument for a sharp pointy horn it really got to that annoying piece of ear wax. I didn't really pick my nose with it, that was a joke. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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